Thread: Confused please help with ignition wiring

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Hi All,
I am trying to start my engine for the first time since putting it in my 1934 Chevy. This car is not drivable at this time. I am just trying to start up the engine. I tried to start it this weekend and the engine would turn over but would not start. I believe the wiring with the battery,starter,ignition switch and external coil are not correct. Here is my setup below.

chevy 350
procomp ready to run 7000 series distributor (has two wires coming off of it red and black
msd blaster 2 coil
universal ignition switch(pep boys)

There does not seem to be getting voltage to the coil. Could someone please explain how or where the wires go from the battery and the starter to the coil and where the heck the ignition switch gets wired in. I think I am half way correct since the engine turns over. But something definitely is not right . Its driving me crazy. If you need more information please let me know.

Thank you,
Nazs

I would imagine you need a keyed 12v to the + side of the coil.
Then the red from the dist to the + side of the coil and the black from the dis to the - side of the coil....

Here is probably your problem........most ignition switches will cut out putting out juice out of the Ignition post when you turn the key to Start. They expect you to pick up the 12 volts to the coil from another source during that brief period when you are holding the key to the Start position.

The way Chevy does this is to utilize a second small post on the starter solenoid. First of all, does your starter solenoid have one big terminal and two small terminals, or just one big terminal and one small terminal?

Answer that question and then I will explain what to do in either case.

Don

It has one big terminal and two small terminals.

Ok, very simple then. As you look at the three terminals, the middle fat one is for the positive battery cable, obviously. The one to the RIGHT of that goes to the start position on the ignition switch and when you turn it to START this one kicks the starter into action.

The little terminal on the LEFT of the fat one should have a wire going from it to the + side of the coil. The idea is, this one puts out a full 12 volts ONLY WHEN CRANKING the engine. It will supply voltage while you are trying to start the engine. Once it starts and you release the key the IGNITION post on the ignition switch takes over and a wire should be going from there, probably through a drop down resistor, then to the + side of the coil also.

Wire it that way and you should be ok. BTW, if you don't have it, pick up one of the $ 5 test lights that look like an icepick with a wire out the top. They are great for seeing if current is flowing.

Let us know if that gets it done.

Don

Thanks Don! I will try to give that a shot today or tomorrow.

Hi Don,
The engine fired right up. Thanks alot. I do have another question dealing with the oil pressure. While the engine was running on the first start up the oil pressure stayed between 35 and 40 while idling. The next time I started it up the oil pressure stayed at 25 while idling and went to between 35 and 40 when revved up. Is this ok?

Thanks,
Denny

Originally Posted by Nazs

Hi Don,
The engine fired right up. Thanks alot. I do have another question dealing with the oil pressure. While the engine was running on the first start up the oil pressure stayed between 35 and 40 while idling. The next time I started it up the oil pressure stayed at 25 while idling and went to between 35 and 40 when revved up. Is this ok?

Thanks,
Denny

Is it a mechanical or electric gauge?? [Mechanical..more accurate] Was the engine hot the second time you started it? [engine hot..oil is thinner..hence lower oil pressure]

It is a mechanical gauge. The engine was still warm. Temp was around 175 degrees. Is 25 psi oil pressure ok at idle? I always thought it was around 35 to 40 psi.

Denny