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Thread: Steering geometry issue
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jul 2003
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    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
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    Wait!! Before you spend money on another steering box, take some measurements on what you have. You can use virtually any steering box and it will not make any difference if the proportion (ratio) of the arms is too far off...

    On my roadster I measured the steering arm (on the left front spindle) and the Pittman arm. The steering arm (stock arm on the Econoline axle), from the center of the king pin to the center of the drag link bolt hole, is 4 1/2 inches. The Pittman arm I am using is 7 inches from the center of the steering box shaft to the center of the draglink bolt hole. That makes the ratio between them of 1.555 to 1. My steering is 3 turns lock-to-lock. This is a very light car, but that's still a little quick.

    On my coupe, which is cross-steered, I am using a 1962 Jeep axle and a mid-80's Toyota 4WD steering box. In that application I am using the stock Jeep steering arms on the spindles, the stock Toyota Pittman arm on the box, and a Speedway Motors "piggyback" tie rod end to connect the drag link to the tie rod. The steering arm is 6 5/8 inches and the Pittman arm is 5 inches for a ratio of 1.325 to 1. This gives the steering 4 1/2 turns lock-to-lock. The coupe is heavier than the roadster and has more weight on the front wheels, so it needs the slower ratio.

    When I make the new steering arm for the roadster, I will lengthen it slightly and I will also make it come up a little higher to take some of the rise out of the drag link...

    I hope some of this helps; I know steering setups can be baffling sometimes. If we weren't so far apart, I'd drop by and try to help out...
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  2. #17
    willowbilly3 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jun 2008
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    Belle Fourche
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    Thanks J.
    I did fiddle with it a bit more today. I shortened the steering arm and lowered it. The angle isn't too bad, now I have about 7 1/2" steering arm measured from the back of the spindle plate. I only have about 1 1/2 turns lock to lock now. There is still a lot of loose stuff to deal with.

  3. #18
    willowbilly3 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I know this thread is old and I haven't posted for a while. I had put this whole thing on the back burner for a couple years. I just this week got it all ironed out. It took some doing and not quite traditional to say the least.
    There was just no way to get what I wanted with the pitman shaft coming out that high on the cowl so I built this drop.



    It also slowed down the steering as the sprockets are 11/15. Then I had to extend the steering arm because the tire hit the drag link in a left turn.
    Here is what I had.


    And the modified version tacked in place.



    My drag link is level and I now have full swing on the steering wheel with a little over 3 turns and both spindles hitting the stops, plus I didn't give up any footroom.

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