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Thread: Steering geometry issue
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    willowbilly3 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    OK, so I can live without the box on the stops. It is a 3 1/2 turn box. I do feel like I need to keep my drag link fairly level. I did design the radius arm pivot points to be perpendicular to the pitman end at center. Since the car is a ways away from drivable I think I will just make it look right for now and deal with it all later.

  2. #2
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
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    I think that is a wise decision, build it and see how it handles. You may have no problem at all. To be honest, I don't know what the proper way is to align the draglink on a cowl steering setup. Does it have to travel in the same arc as other stuff? Not sure.

    Don

  3. #3
    HWORRELL's Avatar
    HWORRELL is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 FORD 5 WINDOW,69 442, 305 sprint car,
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    The pitman arm on my sprint car is 14 inches long the steering arm at the spindle is 5 inches long and the drag link is 50 inches long. The drag link is no where near level and travels up hill from the pitman arm to the steering arm at the left front wheel with no ill effects. I would think a drag link of that length or the length your gonna need would have very little effect on bump steer or arc. Now if that drag link was only 15 to 20 inches long such as using the old Mustang steering box I would say you had better be sure the drag link is level. Looking at your pictures I would say your gonna need a longer pitman arm and a shorter steering arm at the spindle. you don't wanta use the steering box as a stop,do that at the spindles and please please get rid of that wrench for a steering arm (it looks Skeeery) you gotta remember if that breaks you loose all steering ability.

  4. #4
    willowbilly3 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Yeah, I think that's about right, longer pitman, shorter steering arm. The wrench was only on there as a way of moving things around.
    But also remember that on a sprint car you are sawing the wheel about 3/4 turn, lock to lock. I've never driven one but would you even notice if it bump steered?
    My permanent steering arm with be made of 1/2" steel rod and be mounted in all 4 holes on the spindle because the econoline spindle holes are just 2 1/2" on center and it's a little tweaky mounted in just 2. I will have the 1/2 inch rod turned down to 7/17 to fit the holes and thread it for nuts. I just don't want to build it until I am sure on the length and rise.

  5. #5
    HWORRELL's Avatar
    HWORRELL is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    It's more than 3/4 turn but I can't check it cuzz its on the trailer and can't get the whhels to turn far enough. Never felt any bump steer although your usually wheeling it hard nuff ya might not notice. But I have ran Duqoiun & Springfield miles in a midget with virtually the same setup and never noticed any bump steer other than those little cars are real real twitchy goin that fast.

  6. #6
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    [QUOTE=HWORRELLBut I have ran Duqoiun & Springfield miles in a midget with virtually the same setup and never noticed any bump steer other than those little cars are real real twitchy goin that fast.[/QUOTE]

    Never have run either of them, but it's gotta be a blast in a midget!!!! I did do a few laps on the mile at Syracuse in a sprinter!!!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

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