Thread: Steering geometry issue

Tweet

I am using an Econoline front axle on my track roadster and a Ford Ranger steering box (with an extension on the sector shaft) mounted in the cowl. I am using the stock Econoline steering arm on the spindle (for setup purposes) and a GM Metric pittman arm on the box. The ratio seems about right from past experience. I hope that helps for giving you an idea of arm lengths...

As for bump-steer.., almost all parallel steered cars have some bump-steer unless it is a very carefully designed four-bar system. Cowl-steering setups are the most likely to have bump-steer. In order to eliminate bump-steer, you would need for the rear pivot point of the drag link and the rear pivot point of the radius rod to be in the same place (as viewed from the side) so they move in the same arc. Unless bump-steer is drastic, don't concern yourself too much about it. You will get used to the way this car handles and it will become second nature to automatically correct for bump-steer as you drive. In the C-Cab below, I had the radius rods mounted below the frame rail, of course, but the drag link was about 6 inches above the frame. It handled fine and had very little bump-steer.