Thread: another paint question

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Here's another paint question; I'm hoping for putting some paint on the Plymouth about mid summer and I've already decided not to tackle it myself. I'll do the bodywork and primer but I want it to look better than what I can do on the paint. It's going to have to be taken somewhere, painted in pieces, brought back home, and reassembled. How do you get that done without getting it dinged up transporting the body, fenders, doors, etc back and forth? On a basecoat/clearcoat I guess you would wet sand and buff after the car is back together; how long can the new paint sit without being wet sanded and buffed? Just trying to plan ahead; who else has done it this way and how did it turn out?

First, I would advise against painting the parts seperately. You can almost guarantee that they won't all match. It really isn't necessary on that type of body. The cars from the twenties and thirties are different. The shape makes it hard to paint them together, if you want nice paint.

Most guys lay some blankets in the bed of a truck to move the small parts.

The painter will probably have to sand and buff them right away. Most paints harden up in the first few days.

You can paint the pieces seperately depending on the type of paint. Metallics are hard to paint seperate. But a professional painter can do it.
The painter will usually color sand and buff the next day.

Frank

I'm hoping to find someplace close that will be in my budget and do a good job. It'll make it easier as far as transporting it all. I've done a couple single stage jobs myself and they were OK, just want this one nicer. I've been reading about picking a paint system and only using the products within that system . Does that include fillers?

I don't think fillers necessarily have to be from the same company that made the rest of the stuff. It seems a lot of guys like Rage, and I have had good luck with Evercoat Base Coat/ Clear Coat filler. But it is a good idea to stick with one line for your primers, catalysts, reducers, paint, etc. That way you not only prevent compatibility problems, but you also don't give the paint manufacturer a reason to be able to blame any problems on you not using their matched components.

Don