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Thread: bolting in seats
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    35fordcoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    bolting in seats

     



    I am planning on using '97 camaro seats in my '35. Each seat is mounted on a slider, but I figure I need roughly 4-6" more height to mount them. I was thinking about building a frame from angle iron to bolt to the floor and then bolt the seat on top. Then I would enclose it with wood and carpet it, but I am interested to hear/see how most people do it. Also I am wondering the proper way to anchor the seats in the car? Thanks!
    '35 Ford coupe- LT1/T56, '32 Ford pickup, 70 GTO convertible, 06 GTO

    Robert

  2. #2
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Angle iron could work fine. Keep in mind you may want/need to put some rake into the mounting for comfort sake, typically front higher than rear. So to use your example, you may have 5" in front, 4 at the rear of your risers. You might consider having a local sheetmetal shop bend up some nice ones from sheet stock, say 14ga, once you've determined the dimensions. They'll look nicer than pieced together options and might even persuade you to paint them to match or compliment the carpet rather than add the bulk of covering them with carpet. To that thought I'd add that rather than making a "square" box type arrangement that tend to look clunky when you get to that 4" and taller range, try angling the front and back down legs just to add visual interest. It might add a few minutes of extra fab but they would look better (isn't that part of doing a custom build anyway?)

    As for mounting to the floor, it's often wise to add some strength to the floor pan. One method is the use of reinforcements such as these; http://julianos.com/anchor_plate.html. But, you can accomplish just as much with a strap of steel plug welded to the floor pan, say 1/8th by 2". Whichever way you go it's a good idea to have captive nuts on one side or the other (your choice as to whether you want to run the bolt from underneath or the top)just so you aren't trying to stretch both your arms (or require two people) to hold the fasteners when you go to bolt the seat in.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

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  3. #3
    ford2custom's Avatar
    ford2custom is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    That's good information as the low seats have to be built up for the older cars. Back in the 60's guy's would turn a 2"x4" on edge to mount them not such a good idea.

    Richard
    Last edited by ford2custom; 10-06-2008 at 10:24 AM.

  4. #4
    35fordcoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    that was some good information, Bob...thanks. Just a couple questions to clarify a few things you said. i did think about having to angle it...the power versions allow you to tilt the seat, but these manual ones do not (one of these seats was power, but i switched tracks with my 96 z28 for simplicity on the 35). i am confused what you mean about having some sheet metal bend up though? you mean to cover the structure? i also don't quite understand what you mean about the angling the legs, could you elaborate on that too?

    i know about those anchors for the seat belts, but hadn't thought of them for the seats. i could use those to mount the frame to the floor then would i need another set to mount the seat to the angle iron or it would probably be strong enough anchored to that with washers.

    i dont figure i can do any worse than the car was done in the 50's with a split back Jag bench seat sitting free on a wooden frame with only bots...probably similar to you are discribing ford2custom.
    Last edited by 35fordcoupe; 10-06-2008 at 09:10 AM.
    '35 Ford coupe- LT1/T56, '32 Ford pickup, 70 GTO convertible, 06 GTO

    Robert

  5. #5
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe
    i am confused what you mean about having some sheet metal bend up though? you mean to cover the structure? i also don't quite understand what you mean about the angling the legs, could you elaborate on that too?
    Here're some pics of the seat brackets for my Dodge A990 "clone" as an example. These happen to be aluminum, but steel would work fine. Basically a "C" channel, note the angle cut of the front and back. Sometimes these could be for structural reasons, or clearancing, but also just more pleasing to the eye than square cuts. As far as the bracing on these, especially useful with the aluminum, you could vary it to suit your needs/tastes. You could also do filler pieces at the ends of the C channel to give it a more finished look. Those could be welded in, or bent by the fabricator and just the fold seams welded.
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    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  6. #6
    35fordcoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I was thinking you meant like that with the sheet metal i just wasn't picturing it to be very strong in my head. that looks really nice but i won't be able to turn out something like that. i think i will try and get a little creative with the shape though. i like the holes but i think i might make it more solid so i can store some things under the seat and not see them from the side. thanks for the inspiration
    '35 Ford coupe- LT1/T56, '32 Ford pickup, 70 GTO convertible, 06 GTO

    Robert

  7. #7
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    I'll have to copy those pictures, I have a three coupes plus the truck that need something for the seats to sit on. I didn't picture that either that's where the pictures really come in handy.

    Thanks for posting.

    Richard

  8. #8
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe
    i like the holes but i think i might make it more solid so i can store some things under the seat and not see them from the side. thanks for the inspiration
    Another place to look to is mini vans at the wrecking yard. Many of them have sheetmetal formed brackets, though they're often taller than the dimensions you noted (though might be fine for Richard's truck). But some I've seen (sorry, can't remember make/model) had plastic "drawers" under them for storage. Now those might not fit your custom fab, but plastic "bins" used for any number of uses, drawer liners, fastener storage, a thousand and one other uses, are available in building centers, HD and Lowes, 99cent stores, etc. Walking the aisles will fill your head with inspiration for storage solutions.
    Last edited by Bob Parmenter; 10-06-2008 at 11:38 AM.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

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  9. #9
    Mike52's Avatar
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    Hey 35, take a look at these seat mounts. Along with Bob's pics, this could give you another idea for building your own mounts. Hope it helps.

    Mike

  10. #10
    35fordcoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike52
    Hey 35, take a look at these seat mounts. Along with Bob's pics, this could give you another idea for building your own mounts. Hope it helps.

    Mike
    wow i like the adjustability of those (except it looks like you would have to really crank the nuts down the way it is designed. i was starting to get excited for building something, but if those adjust to the position i need i may just give that a shot! probably not the most visually pleasing. looks like i might have to do some digging for a price though...
    '35 Ford coupe- LT1/T56, '32 Ford pickup, 70 GTO convertible, 06 GTO

    Robert

  11. #11
    mopar34's Avatar
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    Last time I checked the Seat Risers were about $99 for a set (one seat) and they come in two different heights. One moves you up about 2 - 4 inches and the other is taller (3 - 6"??). That was several years back so price could be different now.

    I was going to get a set for my 34, but my brother in law who happens to be a whiz at metal fabrication made me a set for his cost. His are not as adjustable but they work real well.
    Bob

    A good friend will come and bail you out of jail....but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying..."Damn....that was fun!

  12. #12
    35fordcoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    100 bucks a pair might be a deal breaker. i had a thought though...maybe i could use pipe and install the little push buttons in the pipe (push the button and slide into hole) if that is strong enough. that way they are adjustable, but i don't think i could make the tilt adjust that way...hmm. the two drivers of this car are the same size...maybe i'll just build them to fit one way and not worry about adjustment.
    '35 Ford coupe- LT1/T56, '32 Ford pickup, 70 GTO convertible, 06 GTO

    Robert

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