Quote Originally Posted by KOSDOS
Thanks guys I am screwing stantion into the floor and welding crosspieces to hold up and tack the frame to level and square, I was looking for some ideas on gussets and I see some from the pros using only 80 wall tubing that are not cross braced or gusseted, so I am looking for ideas on strengthening the weld especially where the crossmember gets welded to the rails. I don't see how I can do a fish plate at 90 degrees so I was thinking of 1/4 plate on top and bottom or is that over kill.
Some great work below on the pictures thanks for sharing.
Yes it is a 36 ford truck
Wish I could explain myself....I shouldve taken better pictures. On the rear rails (outboard side of rails...that mounts to the crossmember you mentioned) I left extra material and allowed it to slide inside the original (inboard side) frame rail....mating it to the boxing plates. This allowed me to drill (1/2") multiple holes in the boxing plate to plug weld to the rear rails. Gusseting should be a snap....I'd make my own if I was you. All of those little things start adding up. I was going to use some 2 1/2 round tubing split in quarters but opted for the multiple welding points instead. I feel confident I wont rip the frame in two with the ammount of power and hook-up that I might have on a track even with slicks. After all...like you said....most of these guys are using 2X3 .083 wall tubing. Thats what I used on my 69 Prostreet...but it was never intended to see much street use. After discussing this with many fabricators...I decided to go with the heavier 2X4 11 ga. for daily driving. My factory frame is 11 ga. It just made sense to match gauge thickness. The fella that won me over has been drag racing for years and said that in a daily environment he would suggest the thicker material for longevity. How much are you needing to narrow the frame? Prostreet style? Or just bigger tires? 10" rim? I found these guys ( http://autoweldchassis.com/spec.ivnu and decided to go with them. A couple of suggestionis. Make it known to them that the rails better be real close to matching....as far as the bends. Oh....and theyre not the friendliest folks on the phone but they get the job done. Best dollar spent would be to have them make a pair of full rails with the rails bent in at the rear and the rise added. I went the they're rear rails because I really wanted the factory shaped frame in the front. If I had it to do over.....I wouldve gone with the full rails with a rise built in at the front as well to get it a little lower. If your budget allows I'd go with the full rails. The idea of the 1/4" fishplate may be over kill. You'll have to ask someone with more experience than me. If your welds make good penetration a 3/16" plate should do the trick. Its all about the welds and thier placement. As far as the 90 degree fish plate like I mentioned earlier....make a concave (or is that convex...never can remember) gusset the full length (up and down) of the frame rail. Could use heavy wall rounds split in quarters to make it look as good as it functions.

Dave G