Yup, I always make the carb flange level and let the crank centerline fall where it will.... I usually build in some height adjustment for the engine to change the chassis weight around a bit.

Don't think I'd do a street car the same way, but it sure works slick on a drag car..... With the chassis lift, things change on the angles, going to plot all that out someday. Big thing I suppose is that it's only 1/4 mile at a time and wear over an extended period is irrelevant---I replace the U-joints every 100 passes on an automatic, and 75 passes with a stick car........

On street machines and street driven Hot Rods, I do apply the more accepted angles on the driveline.

Don't know why it all works, but it works......