Thread: do your own interior

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if you take your time anyone can do it. The examples you show are great. Done the last few of mine as well using the foam but also have used PVC and CPC plastic sheeting. Easy to use with a little heat it will take any shape you want and stay when colled. There is a plastic company across the street and I can get a 4x8 sheet for about $35
For the headliner of the '32 I used tracing paper and traced the flames off the hood

I do like using 3m #90 spray glue....itis in a black and green can . Holds up better to high heat in the summer months

Here's a rear window molding for the willys.
It is impossible to find rear window moldings for a 41 willys and if you do they are usually a rusty POS that cost several hundred $. I made my own by taking a pice of 1/4" plywood and rough cutting it 3" bigger than the opening. I held it up to the opening and had Shirley mark the inside of the glass lip with a felt marker. I then added 1 1/2 " to that line and cut it out. After sanding and smoothing the curves I cut a strip of 1/8" masonite 1" wide and glued and staple it to the inside edge of the pattern. Fill in the back inside corner with fiberglass putty and then grind the glued corner so it has a nice round edge. . Now here's is a neat trick. cut your 1/8" foam 5" wide by the inside radius length + 1/2" overlap. Start by glueing the foam to the INSIDE of the moulding first. After it has set up stretch to foam around the outside of the frame being careful not to tear it. Keep moving around the piece pushing the foam out as you go. this will give you a very tight wrinkle free surface. If you start on the outside you will have all of the excess foam to deal with as you push it inward which will leave wrinkles that you will have to slice to get rid of. Bring your foam all the way around the 1/4" edge and cut with your razor blade so it is flush with the BACKSIDE of the plywood.
Lay your moulding on your vinyl and trace around the insde and the outside edges add 1" onto each line. Glue your vinyl to the insde surface first and let it dry completely. Now begin to work the vinyl up and around heat and stretch it going around the frame and you will have a nice tight seemless covering. Sorry I don't have a good picture of the finished molding right now.

a few shots from the truck I just finished. Started with what vintage air send for under the dash and added on from there and moved the controls. added the center console door panels and everything else.
You can oder plastic from a place like rod doors and also used a headliner from rod doors and covered. In the long run the headliner is formed and is cheaper to do this from RD

[QUOTE=iceburgh]a few shots from the truck I just finished. Started with what vintage air send for under the dash and added on from there and moved the controls. added the center console door panels and everything else.
You can oder plastic from a place like rod doors and also used a headliner from rod doors and covered. In the long run the headliner is formed and is cheaper to do this from RD

Very nice work. It is really much easier to do than one would think. I like the idea of the plastic. I have used the Rod Doors pvc molded panels in the past but they are so expensive for what you get when it is posible to duplicate it with your own materials.

Again VERY NICE WORK

Thanks 41 willys. This thread will be a keeper. One question when you cut your flames out of the foam, does your edge on the foam need to be perfect, or do little blemishes hide once you cover it with the leatherette fabric?

Originally Posted by stovens

Thanks 41 willys. This thread will be a keeper. One question when you cut your flames out of the foam, does your edge on the foam need to be perfect, or do little blemishes hide once you cover it with the leatherette fabric?

You need to try to be as neat as you can as you can see more than you would think. Use a VERY sharp razor blade and cut at an angle to have a smoother transition.
I go through a dozen blades on each panel because I have found one cut will dull the blade so it will snag.
John

Looks to me like you've got some hidden God given talents !!

you can also use a sanding block to sand the edges and put a contour on them

I did my own interior as well with the exception of the seat, console and dash. I don't sew, but I can fabricate and glue stuff together.

Lynn,
Nice job, I especially like the door panel layout.
John

how is the headlining in that 32 coupe done without the pleats in it for the bows? Is it a fiberglass mould or was it made specifically for the car?

I stapled interior backing (waterproof cardboard) to the wooden bows with an air stapler. From there, I covered it with quarter inch closed cell foam using 3M's #90 spray glue. After than I covered the foam with the vinyl fabric using the same spray glue. I don't know how Iceburg did his, but perhaps he can chime in. It looks like a full ceiling insert, but he will have to explain what he used to hold it up there.

Originally Posted by rumrumm

I stapled interior backing (waterproof cardboard) to the wooden bows with an air stapler. From there, I covered it with quarter inch closed cell foam using 3M's #90 spray glue. After than I covered the foam with the vinyl fabric using the same spray glue. .

I did the Willys much the same way as Rumrumm did his accept I used 1/8"closed cell and 3M 74, then added the raised portions with more pieces of 1/8" then covered that with the same type of headliner material used in new cars. I found the headliner material is much more pliable than vinyl and you can get around the corners with out any wrinkles. It is all a matter of preference as to the material and the final look you want. Headliners always seem so daunting but are really not that hard.

John

Made a mold for the roof in one piece from glass and then cut in two to cover and fit. .
You can see it here and then notice the line where it was cut in the second pic


The reason I cut it was to be able to get the curves looking correct with the material.
Leather will not shrink as easy as some others