Thread: More 94 Ford hydraulic clutch problems

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My son used his power bleeder on the clutch so we pretty sure it's done correctly this time. But when Releasing clutch peddle it starts grabbing 1/2 inch from floor. When putting clutch in, it must be down to the floor to shift and then it's really hard to get it in gear.
So I decide to look at it myself, took the inspection cover off the trans, had my son put it in neutral, start engine. What I saw was with clutch all the way Out, the throwout bearing was held against the pressure plate fingers and turning (riding the clutch??). He pushed in the clutch and fingers started moving in right away. Yet with peddle all the way down and fingers depressed, there's only 1/2 of clutch.
How does this hydraulic Slave/throwout bearing suppose to work? Does the throwout bearing run all the time???? I compressed the throwout bearing against the spring: what does that do? It's spring loaded (see picture) so how does it work???

it's obviously those leaves in the picture. They shouldn't have been in the clutch.

* sorry * just kidding.

Those clutch slave units are notoriously difficult to bleed.

Those throwout bearings do turn all the time, if you look at it, there's no way for it to be pulled back away from the fingers.
Are you sure you have the proper combination of parts? How far does the bearing actually move when the pedal is pressed? Does the pedal feel spongy, or does the bearing not move the same speed every time? The last two things would indicate that there's still air in the system somewhere.

Wow, it rides the clutch just setting there........

Ya I'm going to check the parts store to make sure I've got the right parts.

I'll measure the travel length, how much does it need, is there a adjustment somewhere for it?

It feels like it's only working 1/2 inch from floor and no amount of pumping will bring it up.

Try hooking your toe under the pedal and lifting it up. Some hydraulic clutches are adjusted that way. There is no other adjustment. If that doesn't do it, your clutch may be wrong, not thick enough from the flywheel to the fingers.
When bleeding it, reach in and pry the bearing away from the fingers to expel all the air. That's the trouble with that setup, there's no way to get the slave cylinder completely collapsed with it all together.

These units are usually a throwaway, the only way to bleed it is by tystraping it all the way in the return position, when all air is bled out reach in and cut and remove the tie strap:

Originally Posted by R Pope

Try hooking your toe under the pedal and lifting it up. Some hydraulic clutches are adjusted that way. There is no other adjustment. If that doesn't do it, your clutch may be wrong, not thick enough from the flywheel to the fingers.
When bleeding it, reach in and pry the bearing away from the fingers to expel all the air. That's the trouble with that setup, there's no way to get the slave cylinder completely collapsed with it all together.

The guy had the Flywheel ground, how much I don't know, I'll check tomorrow.

The pedal comes up all the way now after they bleed it the third time so there is nowhere to pull it up from.

I don't understand how the slave works, in my third picture with me pulling it back against the spring..... what pushes it forward? I saw it move but don't know what does it.

I'll try pulling it back and bleeding it again.

I've been looking up articles on the net and the seem to conflect with each other.... some say don't Bench Bleed the Master and others say do it. One said to put it in a vise with the connecting hose on it and put a small object in the Check Valve to keep it open. Place hose into reservoir and pump it slowly, after bubbles stop remove object from from hose while it is still in the fluid, replace the rubber and cap. Then do the Slave by using a vacuum pump, when done hook up the Qiuck Disconnect line. Then bleed it the regular way to get out any air that got there hooking up the line. Have an assistant push the peddle down BUT not all the way to the floor, put a hammer head under peddle to keep it off the floor (DO NOT PUMP THE PEDDLE). Open valve and bleed. The author said it took a half hour to do it, Ya Right.

Originally Posted by mekanic

These units are usually a throwaway, the only way to bleed it is by tystraping it all the way in the return position, when all air is bled out reach in and cut and remove the tie strap:

So without pulling it out how do I tie strapping to it? Do you mean colapsing the spring like I did in the picture?

Originally Posted by DennyW

Check this out also.
http://www.explorer4x4.com/bleed.pdf

And, is yours like this ?

Yes mine looks like that. And I also found that same Site and printed out the instructions. I think I'll try it this way before doing the other ones.

Hey thanks everyone for you help.

I can't go get my T coupe from Dave Severson on the 28th without my truck. I don't want to pull the car trailer with my wife's mini van, she really gave me the evil eye when I suggested it.

for what it is worth
we found the firewall cracked where the clutch M/cylinder mounted on 2 Ford pickups we worked on
and the M/cylinder was moving out but not pushing any fluid until it stopped flexing

Originally Posted by TOW'D

for what it is worth
we found the firewall cracked where the clutch M/cylinder mounted on 2 Ford pickups we worked on
and the M/cylinder was moving out but not pushing any fluid until it stopped flexing

Thanks for the heads-up, I'll look for that too.

Here's what I found out today: The parts are all the correct ones, Firewall is not cracked, a full stroke on the peddle moves the Throwout bearing 3/8 inch.
I took it for a ride around the section, worked pretty good, went right into gear with no problems, had 1 inch of clutch...... but at the forth mile it was again hard to get in gear.
Tomorrow I'll bleed it myself. I have the front of the truck on ramps, will pry the bearing back and then bleed it, I'll put a clear bleeding tube on it to see the bubbles. Hope this works.
The Ford garage here wants $77.00 to do it, they figure an hour.

[QUOTE=DennyW]Tom, I have a Bronco II that has a hydraulic clutch, and have worked on many like it.... If you don't work that air out of the master cylinder, you can bleed it all day, and it won't work. Pushing and holding the throwout bearing in is fine, but if any air is trapped, even a little bubble, you will have a problem. Plus loose some of your pedal height, because the air cushions, adsorbs, compresses the push.[/QUOTE

OK, I'll take off the line to the slave and put a tooth pick in the line to open the Check valve and once there's no bubbles coming out I'll reattached it, and hold in on the slave.

I hope this works, really getting tired of it. I've only had it ten years, like to drive'm for fifteen years.

Well I went out to work on the pickup and my son had all ready got it fixed, he took the pushrod off the clutch master cylinder and threaded it out about an 1/8 of an inch and walla....... that's all that it took. Have all kinds of travel now, works just like a brand new truck.