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Thread: 1929 Essex Highboy
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    oldrodder43's Avatar
    oldrodder43 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 29 Essex RS Coupe
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    Page 2

     



    Here are a few more pics of the spring issue.
    Attached Images
    Too old to work, Too poor to quit.

    My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457

  2. #2
    BradC's Avatar
    BradC is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Model A
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    I Like pictures only because it 's easier than reading.......lol
    BradC
    Some days it's not even worth chewing thru the restraints !

  3. #3
    oldrodder43's Avatar
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    more

     



    I made the motor mounts from 2 x 3 box tube frame side and 2 x 1 channel for the motor side. I cut 1/4" triangular flat plate to fit the bolt pattern on the motor block then welded the channel to these at right angles, bored holes in both parts to match and to fit the rubber isolators (from Speedway). In the pics you probably notice I had two sections of 2 x 2 box tube cut on a long angle, these were made for the motor side mounts first, but I was concerned about the thin sections of the box so changed to the channel. The bolt 'nubs' on the side of the engine block were even on the passenger side, but the driver side had the top one slightly shorter than the other two, so I cut a piece of pipe to use on over the bolt as a bushing or standoff. You might notice that in one of the pictures if you are looking.
    Too old to work, Too poor to quit.

    My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457

  4. #4
    bluestang67's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 67 Mstg cpe , 37 Ford Coupe
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    43 frame is coming along and some good work . I dont think i would ever challenge this degree of building but to modify that i would attempt . I'm like you i store ideas to help me in the future also.

  5. #5
    oldrodder43's Avatar
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    pics again

     



    Let's try some pics again.* Couldn't get them to upload before. HOORAY! Its works again. Thanks Big Guys!
    Attached Images
    Too old to work, Too poor to quit.

    My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457

  6. #6
    oldrodder43's Avatar
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    Another page!

     



    It's great to have this Forum Site, is it not? Thanks Mr. Mustang and any helpers you have.
    Here are shots of the bell housing I bought on ebay. Pics show the crack that came with it, no charge!!!!
    I emailed the seller and he/she got beligerant, said it must have happened in shipping! Yeah, RIGHT. And the break got grease in it from the nasty Postal Workers too............. Well, not too bad, it'll work for me. I can get it fixed of course, just money.
    And a TEASER here, a BIG jump ahead to a view of the body sitting on the frame. Still got to do a lot inside and make the tranny mount solid, but it's great to get a look at it this far along! I won't say more at this point, spoil Christmas-----haahaaaa
    And last shot here a picture of the front radius rod mounts.
    Attached Images
    Too old to work, Too poor to quit.

    My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457

  7. #7
    oldrodder43's Avatar
    oldrodder43 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks for the kind words and the support BobbyD. I am glad you are enjoying the build. I am too, twice, once doing it and again in putting on the posts. Regards, Perley
    Too old to work, Too poor to quit.

    My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457

  8. #8
    oldrodder43's Avatar
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    BradC, yuk yuk yuk. I know, I still remember the baby books I used to 'read' to my Children, the ones that didn't have words, JUST PICTURES. Perley
    Too old to work, Too poor to quit.

    My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457

  9. #9
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
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    Keep it comin' Perley, I'm really enjoying your build. Aren't your rod ends 1/2" instead of 3/8"?

    For those who don't know, common rod ends are available ONLY in fine threads.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  10. #10
    oldrodder43's Avatar
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    Hello Jim. It do get confusing at times, say what?? haahaa.
    Yep, the rear radius rod heim joint rod ends are 5/8", you are right, in 3/4" pipe!
    But the front ones are all 3/8" in 1/2" pipe, same as your T. clevis on the front (bat wing connections) and heim type on the rear. hmmmmm, I THINK I got that right! RIGHT? Perley
    Too old to work, Too poor to quit.

    My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457

  11. #11
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 33 American Austin/Bantam
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    Hey Perley,

    Me thinks the right front tire is wearing just a bit on the inside....

    Nice work, stick with it, I am having fun just cruising along with ya

  12. #12
    oldrodder43's Avatar
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    Mistake #2

     



    Wow, here is another mistake, all in one week. UGH. I gotta pay more attention (it's all I can afford)!
    Anyways, my Mentor pointed out that the front radius rod ends are NOT
    3/8", but rather 1/2". As he says, 3/8" ain't heavy enough to be safe. Please take note of this. Front radius rod ends are indeed 1/2 inch x 20 T.P.I. and are inserted in the same size rod couplings inside 1/2" black pipe.

    And to toqwk............Man, I didn't think anyone would notice that front tire! When I get rich, I'll buy some good ones------------
    Perley
    Too old to work, Too poor to quit.

    My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457

  13. #13
    oldrodder43's Avatar
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    odds and ends

     



    Pictures of the bracketts for the radius rods and a picture of the frame showing the coil spring mounts on the frame. This is not a good picture, but I guess I didn't get a good one. They are peices of 1/4" plate with a slice of the truck exhaust pipe, like on the axle, welded to it, then welded into the rear corners of the frame. Added a small triangular gusset to the top to add strength. These locations correspond to the locations on the rear axle for the opposing sides. This idea came from the build thread of brianruppnow or Brian Angus on How to build a Hot Rod Frame that I mentioned previously and from pictures on his gallery. Told ya I'm a pirate! And a couple of shots of drilling holes in the motor mounts for the rubber mount kit from Speedway. Perley
    Attached Images
    Too old to work, Too poor to quit.

    My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457

  14. #14
    oldrodder43's Avatar
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    Rear Axle and R.R.

     



    I then turned the frame upside down on my work horses (metal kind) and lifted the rear axle up onto the upside down frame. Propped it up with wood blocks and clamped it to keep it in position. After a bit I cut two pieces of 1/2" pipe at what I think to be ride height of the coil springs, inserted those between the upper and lower coil mounts, then cut pieces of 3/8" threaded rod, pushed these through holes drilled in the coil mount plates with the pipe spacers in place, then a nut on each end of each rod. I then started fabricating the rear radius rods and the mounts on the bottom of the frame members for them. I measured the engine/transmission assembly and transferred that measure to the frame from the motor mounts previously welded into the frame. That showed me where the forward universal joint would be (or close) at the transmission output end. The front R/R bracketts are pretty close to this point. I have read that the best position for the mount ends of the Radius Rods should be close together and near the universal joint. This is the approximate center of the pivot for the rear axle in riding over bumps etc. I didn't think I had the patience to cut and fit individual plate mounting pieces for the front mounts, so I cut two sections of 1 1/2 inch sqare tube (guessed/eyeballed the length) and then sliced out one side of these tube pieces. These I stood on end and held in place with welding magnets while cutting and fitting the radius rods. Notice that the rod ends are somewhat narrower than the square tube. That's ok, I'll bush the extra space with washers or something!
    More photos folks!!!!
    Attached Images
    Too old to work, Too poor to quit.

    My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457

  15. #15
    oldrodder43's Avatar
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    Glad to have you jump in TO-QWK. Glad to share. And please------No Mr., just Perley.
    Too old to work, Too poor to quit.

    My build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39457

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