Thread: 1929 Essex Highboy

Tweet

As you might notice, In the end I made my own spring shackles for various reasons, even though I had nice new ones from Speedway. Some of the reasons: holes didn't fit bolts, bolts didn't fit spring eyes, spring eyes too difficult to rebush, new shackles bolts too small. UGH. Steep learning curve.

Here are more pics from the frame build, interior crossmembers (K members) whatever---And more pics of moving from work 'garage' to shop where welder is (was)!
Man, am I glad that is in the past. Most of this stuff causes me a lot of head scratching. Just feel my way along! Sometimes right (good) sometimes wrong (take it apart, redo it). All part of the learning curve, I guess

And at the 'weld' shop! Here is a pic of the combo steering box brackett/clamp, plate. Lots of the things I come up with I've seen on other builds throughout the interim. This plate (3/8" thick) came from the one that Don (I told you so) did on his Dodge Rat. The cradle affair came from another build I found. I save pics of things I think I can use in my document file, then use them as needed! I'm a wicked pirate!
And more pics of our welding the previously fitted frame parts together, and the rest of the front (model A frame) boxing plates. I welded a spot here, a spot there, skipped around, until at last I had them completely welded. I know, I know you purists (perfectionists) better builders, etc., will shudder to see me flop this frame back and forth, welding without any hold-down clamps, frame tables, etc. But --------- we do what we have to do. I am pretty careful to measure, eyeball, triangulate, etc., to try to keep things aligned etc. But if I waited until I had the perfect setup, I'd never NEVER get it done, so -------- be it as it may. I may not live long enough to see it on the road anyways, I may junk it all before I get it that far, I may get discouraged - I may - I may!!!!!
But I am keeping it safe (IMHO) regardless.
Here is a pic of one of the motor mounts in. I will show more pics of making the mounts in another segment. And in general, welding in previously cut, fitted, tacked parts.

I Like pictures only because it 's easier than reading.......lol
BradC

I made the motor mounts from 2 x 3 box tube frame side and 2 x 1 channel for the motor side. I cut 1/4" triangular flat plate to fit the bolt pattern on the motor block then welded the channel to these at right angles, bored holes in both parts to match and to fit the rubber isolators (from Speedway). In the pics you probably notice I had two sections of 2 x 2 box tube cut on a long angle, these were made for the motor side mounts first, but I was concerned about the thin sections of the box so changed to the channel. The bolt 'nubs' on the side of the engine block were even on the passenger side, but the driver side had the top one slightly shorter than the other two, so I cut a piece of pipe to use on over the bolt as a bushing or standoff. You might notice that in one of the pictures if you are looking.

43 frame is coming along and some good work . I dont think i would ever challenge this degree of building but to modify that i would attempt . I'm like you i store ideas to help me in the future also.

Let's try some pics again.* Couldn't get them to upload before. HOORAY! Its works again. Thanks Big Guys!

Thanks for the kind words and the support BobbyD. I am glad you are enjoying the build. I am too, twice, once doing it and again in putting on the posts. Regards, Perley

It's great to have this Forum Site, is it not? Thanks Mr. Mustang and any helpers you have.
Here are shots of the bell housing I bought on ebay. Pics show the crack that came with it, no charge!!!!
I emailed the seller and he/she got beligerant, said it must have happened in shipping! Yeah, RIGHT. And the break got grease in it from the nasty Postal Workers too............. Well, not too bad, it'll work for me. I can get it fixed of course, just money.
And a TEASER here, a BIG jump ahead to a view of the body sitting on the frame. Still got to do a lot inside and make the tranny mount solid, but it's great to get a look at it this far along! I won't say more at this point, spoil Christmas-----haahaaaa
And last shot here a picture of the front radius rod mounts.

Here are shots of fabricating the rear bat wings and coil spring mounts. Again, thanks to BrianAngus for the design as shown earlier in posts. He has posted an excellent thread on building a hot rod frame, do a search and you'll find it. If not let me know and I'll find the link.
I gave up on the 'gas axe' (oxy-acyt) and have been using my sabre saw with metal blades. I use a LOT of them. Thanks Home Depot. haaahaa
I made a poster board pattern to fit the design and all then traced around it onto the 1/4" plate steel. Then used a hole saw in my electric drill to do the cut that fits around the rear axle. Then I sawed out the rest with sabre saw (and several blades). They do well until you pinch them going around corners, then they get hot and lose their temper! Me?? Well, I lose mine too, but I'm mellowing with age.........like fine wine
Enjoy. Perley

More pics of the rear batwings and coil spring mounts. The springs came from an ebay buy, from a Geo Metro. Seem to be plenty strong. And a pic of the batwings ready to weld on the axle. I had previously ground off the old leaf spring mounts and ground the rust off the axle. I used a piece of 2 x 2 box tubing for spacers for where the rear radius rods will go afterwards. And a shot of them welded on. Perley

Whoops, first mistake I've made all month-year! haahaaaa. Yeah, RIGHT.
I got a shot in there of a front axle bat wing welded on without explanation. And the 2 x 2 box tubing was not a spacer for the radius rods, but rather for the coil spring mounts to sit on and weld to.

haahaa. I've got PLENTY of pictures folks, hope you don't get sore about so many. I looked at LOTS of others' pictures (and still do) and I loved it, learned much more than just text (talk).
Pics of the front batwings welded on (one of which was in last post). A shot of my rather primitive conditions where the welder is (was)! But it works! and the coil spring cups. These were made from pieces of (big) truck exhaust pipe that I bought at a local Auto Parts Store. Sliced sections 2 inches long with my Chop Saw. I won't show how I did it and I don't advocate that anyone else do it. As they say, you only get one set of fingers. And a shot of the front axle in place with the spring (from a mobile home) mounted to the home made bat wings. These were made based on a photo of some from parts books and refined to fit the I beam axle. Again, thanks to my Mentor for the help.

The next group of pictures shows fabricating the radius rods, thanks to my Mentor again for the design and such (pirated from his build thread) that is shown and described on J. Robinson's EXCELLENT build thread on his Track Style T. Here is a link http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30400
I got a lot of Inspiration, Instruction, Ideas, and Confidence from this build and from Don Itoldyouso's build on his T bucket. Also a top notch build thread. Don and Son Dan are top drawer builders, and Son Don Jr. does pretty well too. Dan is just a tad fussy about things!!
Here is a link to his build thread. http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23618
First shot is of the end of one of the radius rods prepared for the threaded end. I cross drilled holes to enable me to plug weld the inserts. The ends were modified Rod Coupling Nuts that I found at a local Building Supply firm. Caution here!! At first I bought some from Home Depot (cheap too), but then (just in time) found out from my Mentor that the thread pitch was wrong for the Rod Ends I would use. These coupling nuts were 3/8" x 18 T.P.I. when in fact I needed 3/8" x 20 tpi. These cost me considerably more from a Hardware type Building Supply Store. sigh
These nuts were ground down on my bench grinder, because I didn't have a lathe to do it with. It wasn't any great chore, and not like they needed to be PRECISION or anything! Just a few turns on each made them fit into the pipe ends. J. Robinson shows this on his build thread and describes it very well. After that I welded them through the holes and around the projecting portion of the end. Be careful like I wasn't, because it's hell to clean up the threads after you booger them up from welding. Also, the first one I did I put a bolt in a few threads to protect the internal threads, then found that I had welded the bolt in--------------
Yah, I make a lot of mistakes!!

The front radius rods were done the same way as the rear, that is, holes drilled in the ends of the pipe, rod couplings ground down with bench grinder, inserted in pipe and welded. The lower member of the assembly was bent by putting the pipe end over the spring brackett on a truck with the end under a brace and putting a little of my ### pounds on it. Worked like a charm. Second one was done same way and held the first up beside it frequently while bending to make sure they were EXACTLY the same! Yeah, RIGHT.
I then cut the short end off to a suitable length, ground it out to fit over the top member, then in due time, welded them on. Before this happens, on many installations, you need to ascertain that the front axle leans back the proper amount of inclination for Caster Setting Angle. On mine, the way the spring mounts are hooked to the batwings gives me the ability to tilt the axle independantly of the radius rods, so although I did adjust them some, it was not so critical. The front ends, top and bottom got clevis rod ends while the single back end got heim type rod ends. These came in my Speeway order mentioned before. I also placed jamb nuts on the shanks before threading them into their respective threaded coupling nut inserts. And a shot of the mounting pads, or bracketts that I attached the back end of these to. I calculated things so that the steering arm from the steering box would hang directly over the radius rod mount on the driver side. This is supposed to stop bump steer somewhat. Again, the plate for the steering box mount design was based loosely on the Dodge Rat that (itoldyouso) Don (donsrods) is building. It is made from 3/8" plate. Perley