Thread: 1929 Essex Highboy

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It is a rust and corrosion preventive and I just came upon it about 3 months or so ago, but have been impressed with what it does. Their website is www.fluid-film.com.

Here I am getting the engine ready for paint. I was going to leave it Chevy Red, but my Friend Jim suggested that black would be better in that it wouldn't show oil spills (UGH) So then I was torn between doing what was right and doing what was quick (and easy)! heeeheee
In the end I figured I better do the right thing, so degreaser (6 cans), scrape and dig, dish detergent spray, and lots of water. Then wire brush, more scraping, more digging, more, more and finally ready. I used the air to blow it off then rattle can spray Hammered Black R.OL. heeeheee.
Perley

And more! Plus a shot of the rear brake assembly. WHY? I dunno, just cuz it was there!
I hope all of these pictures aren't getting people down. If there are too many let me know and I'll make it more brief. I don't want to bore you all but I am trying to show all of the steps involved in this 'from the ground up build'. Just hoping it helps the next guy along by showing what I've done!

And the engine, bell housing, transmission all together.

BUT then of course if you want MORE pictures, I've gottem!!!!
Here is the engine combo sitting back in the chassis. The oil pan isn't done yet but it will be soon. Just needed to get the engine mounted so I could get under it and all. Then took it off, went through the same cleaning process, then paint. Then new gasket set, cleaned surfaces etc. then bolted pan back on. And a shot of the drop-out transmission crossmember and mount. Enjoy.

Remember in post #116 I told about the shock angle and the steering difugalty? How the steering arm hit the shock? And then too the mount was tipped back a little in relation to the grille shell, (which I didn't show or tell you about) heeheee. Well, I cut them off the frame and trimmed the angle some, then welded them back on (straighter) and then bored new holes for the shocks up higher for a steeper shok angle. Then just bored out the lower (original) holes bigger to make for some visual interest So that made for some clearance with steering arm, although with the ball stud and mating end on the drag link, I found it still not clearing in a hard left turn. Solution, NO HARD LEFT TURNS!

Here I am fixing to shorten my own driveshaft * I didn't think I could do it, but my Mentor insisted that I could!* * So give it a go.* I figured the worst would be that I'd have to buy a whole new one!* * First I drew a straight line on the shaft from the front yoke to the opposing rear yoke, for whatever reason!* * heehee.* Something about angle of the dangle, or vibration or lack of it, OR ------* And then I made a line on shaft that was representative of where the lower balance weight was and where it needed to be after section cut off.* Then I took a grinder with a cut-off wheel and cut (somewhat carefully) around the end of the shaft where the end was attached (?) hopefully!* Then after some tinkering I got the old end off.* Then ----- oh yeah, first I measured REAL careful so I would know how much to cut off, heeheeee.* Then put shaft on my chop saw and CUT it.* uhhhhh, hope it's right!* * Then dressed the cut up, filed up the end piece, and pounded it in to the cut end.* whooooeeeee.* Fun or WHAT?*