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Thread: Boxing a frame
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    SamRogers86 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ellicott City
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Volvo P1800S
    Posts
    8

    true, the floor was very thin and rusted out in places, which is initially why I pulled it out, then I found that certain parts of the frame were rusted through (you can see some of my cuts in one of the pictures). also, the floor was not very thick which is why I was wondering how thick the boxing should be. I think the route that I'll take now is to just box the frame (top, sides, and bottom) for re-inforcement, then weld in the new floor pan. I'm kind of dumbfounded that you had to point that out to me actually. I've thought for so long on this frame ordeal, I guess I just got overwhelmed. Oh well, soon all will be better though.

  2. #2
    paul274854 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Midland park
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford Conv,54 Ford Vict
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    193

    Quote Originally Posted by SamRogers86 View Post
    true, the floor was very thin and rusted out in places, which is initially why I pulled it out, then I found that certain parts of the frame were rusted through (you can see some of my cuts in one of the pictures). also, the floor was not very thick which is why I was wondering how thick the boxing should be. I think the route that I'll take now is to just box the frame (top, sides, and bottom) for re-inforcement, then weld in the new floor pan. I'm kind of dumbfounded that you had to point that out to me actually. I've thought for so long on this frame ordeal, I guess I just got overwhelmed. Oh well, soon all will be better though.
    I would just repair the bad sections and then do the top (to complete the box) Doing the bottom and sides with an extra layer is redundant.

    What are your plans for the car? If you are not going to put in a monster engine, just do the front part (engine mounting areas), maybe in the rear where the rear end mounts.

  3. #3
    SamRogers86 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Dec 2008
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    Ellicott City
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Volvo P1800S
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    8

    The specs for the original motor are between 96HP and 100HP at the crank, I estimated today that the weight for the car would drop from 2500lbs (original weight) to 1750lbs (estimated weight now) and with a motor with close to 400HP (anywhere between 370 and 400) at the wheels, I assumed that I should re-inforce the frame. At this point, I may as well box the frame, as well as re-inforce it just to provide addition support.

  4. #4
    willowbilly3 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jun 2008
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    Belle Fourche
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    521

    Please don't tell us you are going to put a sbc in that lovely car!

  5. #5
    SamRogers86 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Dec 2008
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    Ellicott City
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Volvo P1800S
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    8

    haha no sir, I was originally going to put a race-ready volvo motor in it from the same era, but scrapped the idea (yes, I sold out) or a 2.3L turbo motor from the late 80's mustangs and thunderbird turbo coupes. Here's a link to somebody else that did one:

    http://www.robidaconcepts.com/page/page/1918175.htm

  6. #6
    willowbilly3 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamRogers86 View Post
    haha no sir, I was originally going to put a race-ready volvo motor in it from the same era, but scrapped the idea (yes, I sold out) or a 2.3L turbo motor from the late 80's mustangs and thunderbird turbo coupes. Here's a link to somebody else that did one:

    http://www.robidaconcepts.com/page/page/1918175.htm
    Now that I can handle!!. I know the old (B16?) isn't going to snap anyones neck. I love the 1800s. A good friend has one in Texas and I have know a couple people with the ES. Story goes that whn USA mandated the 5 mph bumpers Volvo told them they wouldn't make the car ugly so they could sell it to us.

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