Thread: think this roof can be saved?

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I have posted before about my roof on my 29 tudor, from the middle metal strut forward it seems to be in good shape but from the metal strut back it is "lumpy" I am thinking from who ever welded it on.. it is in sections running from side to side welded over top of the roof struts. Then the struts are glued to the roof with some super strong stuff. I was hoping that the roof could be saved with out replacing it. I am going to sand it back down to bare metal as soon as it gets a little warmer have to do it outside since my garage is small and I am sure there is about 5 gallons of bondo on it.. if anyone could give me there opinions on how to fix or if it can be I would appriciate it... here is a link to photobucket with some pics of the car and roof I know it is hard to see from pics but I think you can kind of get an idea of what I am dealing with.

thanks
simon
http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u...9%20Model%20A/

Simon, Its a little hard to tell how bad it is from those photos. but what I can see it doesn't look all that bad. No matter what it's fixable, why don't you post some pics after you get it stripped. A lot of real craftsmen on this site and I just bet that your roof can be saved with out too much of a problem.

Roland

I really cant tell from the pics either, but it really does not look bad to me, nothing a hammer cant fix.

thanks for the vote of confidence guys, I won't be able to strip it down to metal till it gets a little warmer outside I live in Maryland and it has been very cold . But I will for sure post pics as soon as I can get out side and strip it... I had one suggestion to cut relief cuts in the wood sturts in the worst areas and jack them up then sandwich them between some 3/4 plywood to get them to hold in that position... that seems like a good way of doing it all I have to do is make a pattern out of paper cardboard once I get it into position then cut it out of plywood... does that seem like a good fix?

thanks,
simon

Well I finally got a little warm weather where I could stand to have the garage door open and I started sanding the roof down I have it about 3/4 of the way done. I took a few more pics of it .I know it is still very hard to see how bad but atleast you can see how it is welded and that some of the welds are very solid and some places there doesn't seem to be any welds at all... I was going to replace the roof wood but I would have to remove the roof to do so ... so I am tring to avoid that... there was a ton of body filler on there as you can probably see there is still alot to come off.. there was some yellow colored and some grey which seemed a lot tuffer than the yellow. anyway What would be recommended for the next step after I finish getting all the apoxy primer and body filler off??? Try to jack up the sagging wood strut and brace it some how? then hammer up on the low spots to stretch the metal and try get it in shape then skim with body filler then ppg D90? here are some more pics..

thanks,
simon
http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u...9%20Model%20A/

It's going to take some bracing first, for sure. I'd suggest using metal. A 1" wide piece of 1/8" strap bent to the right contour and tacked on the hands might work good.... Then it's a matter of ding and ping, shrink the roof so it fits the contour of the braces correctly. Word of caution, the more you work the roof panel with hammer and dolly, the more it will stretch.....so be careful of how you work it...

I know you probably don't want to hear it again, but IMO the best plan would be to remove the roof panel and the wood strips and start over with a station wagon or van roof with the reinforcement beads already stamped in it....

I agree with Dave. I have never done it ,but IMHO I like the lines that are in the station wagon roofs and van roofs. . If you get one you get the supports with it then can fab tabs to your car.
I think you can work your tail off with what someone else did and be very dissapointed. By changeing it you will start with a perfect roof and then only have to deal with tackin it in and can find lots of pics probly here and other sites that will help.t

I had the same problem with my 32 chevy from THE OTHER GUY so I did just what Dave said Roof from stationwagon worked out great. Good luck

That is a really nice car you have there. It deserves the best shot at fixing the top right. There is just too much weld area that has the top sheet metal pulled out of shape. Unless you are a very experienced bodyman, this may be too much to correct. A new, as in different, insert and someone that is a good at welding sheet metal is the best bet here. I think you will be very dissapointed if you try to save what you have. If it were a good sound "top fill" to begin with, I would say work what you have. But it isn't.

Okay well what kind of station wagon am I looking for? what would be a good donner roof for my car?

Make a cardboard prfile of what you have or what you will have when the old is removed. Take it to the boneyard and choose a roof that best suits. If you do the cutting out or whoever does take plenty and trim when you get it back home.
Remember also to consider the length. Want the ribs to end with hanging over the end of your roof.
I think if you do enough reserch here and on other rod sites you will find some pictures. Maybe someone here can post.

Well I called a local junkyard today from work and they said that a mid 80's to about 1990 you can find a smooth roof with out the ribbing and roof rack they want 250.00 delivered they said they would cut it with about 3-4 inches of the a/b pillers.... does this sound like a good deal?

thanks,
simon

Do you want smooth or ribbed? Sounds to high a price . Offer $125 and work from there.

I want smooth... I will call them tomorrow and see if I can hagle them down 125.00 sounds very doable since they most places around here give anywhere from 100.00 - 200.00 a car... I guess I need try to find out how to do this, for instance do I just cut on the body side of the welds on the existing roof and then I have to figure out how to go about cutting the new one and holding it in place for tacking in ...

Okay I talked the junk yard down to 100.00 for a 88 dodge caravan roof smooth no roof rack... they will cut it 3 inches down the pillers so I have a complete roof.... since the car is complete and I am just replacing the center protion of the roof where at one point in time was no roof do I need to brace the car when I cut the roof off? what is the easiest way to get the new roof on as far as measuring cutting etc? and should I just use tack welds all around the roof spacing and hammer and dolling them till I finally get it welded in ? I was probably going to tack all over the place none side by side in hopes of not warping this roof and getting a roof that looks a hundred times better than the one on there now. any help on how to do this would be appriciated I have looked through past posts but don't seem to have a whole lot of info on getting the job done from beging to end, if there is anyone that has done this and would like to give me adive on how to do so I would appriciate it greatly

thanks,
simon