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01-25-2009 08:33 AM #1
Electric die grinder preferences
I am planning to buy an electric die grinder for head porting. I am looking for your opinions on the brands any of you use. Common sense would lead me to the 4.5 amp Milwaukee but is that overkill for the hobbiest? Will a 2-3 amp tool get the job done?
I already have a old craftsman but it has no speed control. I have air die grinders but not enough air and I also have a Foredom.
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01-25-2009 09:25 AM #2
any one you get you want a speed control speed i use air so i can slow it down for sand drums and flaps and carbide needs to run slow and for fine work a round valve seats etc . stone you can run alot faster .i would look at a flex drive type like a dremel super kit 1/5 model 804-1095 with variable speed control or bigger. i have all ways used air most of the time. when working with alum and or carbide cuters with a length of over 2 1/2 shank like 6+ inch long carbide you have to slow things down .i have a makita electric505-3141. 2 amps that i just use stones or and Mx or Cratex abrasive wheels with but if you have a foredom why not use it.. you have more right now then i do and i have done it for some time now but if you are doing it all the time you may want to look at the milwaukee 5192 or bosch1209 i did use a milwaukee 5192 big heavy all in all more then what i neededLast edited by pat mccarthy; 01-25-2009 at 10:26 AM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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01-25-2009 11:56 AM #3
You can get (some) speed control by adding a pressure regulator in line..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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01-25-2009 04:28 PM #4
The Fordom is too slow for the double cut burrs. My compressor is small and tired, a bigger one would require rewiring an old house that isn't mine. The electricians don't even like to come here.lol. The craftsman is really old and tired, I am sure it would die before I got done. I just want a new electric one, the air ones work the crap out of compressors, even good ones. Why have a 6 horse compressor running all day when you could have a 2 amp die grinder?
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01-25-2009 04:41 PM #5
Last edited by pat mccarthy; 01-25-2009 at 05:04 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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01-25-2009 04:57 PM #6
The electric ones will have more power, at any rpm. I use foot rheostats to control power, to constantly change the rpms, as needed. (electric or air)
My air grinder has been in tool box for years, I never use it.
I am changing everything I can from air to eletric.
PatHemiTCoupe
Anyone can cut one up, but! only some can put it back together looking cool!
Steel is real, anyone can get a glass one.
Pro Street Full Fendered '27 Ford T Coupe -392 Hemi with Electornic Hilborn injection
1927 Ford T Tudor Sedan -CPI Vortec 4.3
'90 S-15 GMC pick up
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01-25-2009 05:21 PM #7
I would buy one of these http://www.mytoolstore.com/makita/mak08-08.html
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01-25-2009 05:28 PM #8
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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01-25-2009 05:37 PM #9
Look who else Like's that Grinder http://www.mondellotwister.com/ArtHeadPort.htm
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01-25-2009 08:32 PM #10
Eastwood has a real nice set up, 1/2 HP motor and a flex shaft..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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01-26-2009 05:06 AM #11
Spray WD-40 on the bur and it won't load up. High speed or carbide.
I have been using 1/8", 1/4" (with & with out a flex shaft, & 90 dgree grinders every week on alumumn & steel/iron since early 70's I have top of the line name brands, and I have grinders that I paid $14.00 for, the old Dremel worked & last the best.
The only 1/4" one that I burned out was a Chicago electric, 3-5 mins after I started use it! still use the replacement one on lite stuff.
I have changed many brush's in all brands I've owned. Harder to get name brand brush's, alot of cheaper ones come with spare brush's. I work them hard most of the time when I use them.
PatHemiTCoupe
Anyone can cut one up, but! only some can put it back together looking cool!
Steel is real, anyone can get a glass one.
Pro Street Full Fendered '27 Ford T Coupe -392 Hemi with Electornic Hilborn injection
1927 Ford T Tudor Sedan -CPI Vortec 4.3
'90 S-15 GMC pick up
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01-26-2009 05:40 AM #12
i use petroleum jelly with a acid brush but the thing is just to fast for my likeing needs a speed control and in time like you said you could burn the brush out of it fast . the way it is with out a speed control you will plug a alum carbide wd 40 is ok the mill /tapping cutting oil work s better but any thing spinning that fast you just burning any thing you put on the carbide i done a wee bit of this stuff to over the years but a could be wrongLast edited by pat mccarthy; 01-26-2009 at 05:53 AM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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01-26-2009 05:41 AM #13
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01-26-2009 06:41 PM #14
Block looks nice, I know what it takes to get to that point, alot sitting with a grinder in hand. I like to put on head phones and get it to it all day, for days. I build Aluminum investment molds & plastic injection molds long before we had CNC's. lots of grinding.
I ground smooth all the welds on our '27 T frame with IRS, IFS.
I understand what you mean by to many rpm's. I like to use the foot controller on the 1/4" grinders(I'm usually sitting), and I like the controler on the grinder on the 1/8' ones(I'm all over the place, free to move).
PatHemiTCoupe
Anyone can cut one up, but! only some can put it back together looking cool!
Steel is real, anyone can get a glass one.
Pro Street Full Fendered '27 Ford T Coupe -392 Hemi with Electornic Hilborn injection
1927 Ford T Tudor Sedan -CPI Vortec 4.3
'90 S-15 GMC pick up
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01-26-2009 08:10 PM #15
Thanks i have done many like this. i can do one fast now:dSMILE: .i do as well as head chambers port work on heads for harley s bike and intakes as well as auto heads and intakes . i did rims to for GM show cars i like to work with grinders and sanders to blend and form metals i fix busted blocks and blown up heads. i am doing some stuff at the shop right now. i may put some of it up on the form to show some guys how i fix busted stuff . the crank case timming cavity looks the same on that block to . over the years i have found for me anyways i like drum sanders and use more stones and MX or Cratex then carbide but i do use them i like to run them about the same speed as a drum sanders or a hair faster just to get a good cut thats all. the carbide for me if they start to plug up at hi speed start s to jump i worry about catching one in the face or blowing up one .i had one that was 6 inch long in a intake was a cheaply made bur it bent the 1/4 shaft on the mount and started to whip .with stones i can run them so much fast and if plug up they do not jump and i can cut them to size or unload them by using my bench grinder for frames and other big stuff on i have some of the see thru sanders they have holes in them so you can watch the cut i run on the small 4 1/2 angle grinders and move up to a 8 inch soft pad i use on a big variable speed sander with 80 grit zirconia abrasive then move up to a da sanderLast edited by pat mccarthy; 01-26-2009 at 08:25 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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