-
01-25-2009 08:33 AM #1
Electric die grinder preferences
I am planning to buy an electric die grinder for head porting. I am looking for your opinions on the brands any of you use. Common sense would lead me to the 4.5 amp Milwaukee but is that overkill for the hobbiest? Will a 2-3 amp tool get the job done?
I already have a old craftsman but it has no speed control. I have air die grinders but not enough air and I also have a Foredom.
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
01-25-2009 09:25 AM #2
any one you get you want a speed control speed i use air so i can slow it down for sand drums and flaps and carbide needs to run slow and for fine work a round valve seats etc . stone you can run alot faster .i would look at a flex drive type like a dremel super kit 1/5 model 804-1095 with variable speed control or bigger. i have all ways used air most of the time. when working with alum and or carbide cuters with a length of over 2 1/2 shank like 6+ inch long carbide you have to slow things down .i have a makita electric505-3141. 2 amps that i just use stones or and Mx or Cratex abrasive wheels with but if you have a foredom why not use it.. you have more right now then i do and i have done it for some time now but if you are doing it all the time you may want to look at the milwaukee 5192 or bosch1209 i did use a milwaukee 5192 big heavy all in all more then what i neededLast edited by pat mccarthy; 01-25-2009 at 10:26 AM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
-
01-25-2009 11:56 AM #3
You can get (some) speed control by adding a pressure regulator in line..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
01-25-2009 04:28 PM #4
The Fordom is too slow for the double cut burrs. My compressor is small and tired, a bigger one would require rewiring an old house that isn't mine. The electricians don't even like to come here.lol. The craftsman is really old and tired, I am sure it would die before I got done. I just want a new electric one, the air ones work the crap out of compressors, even good ones. Why have a 6 horse compressor running all day when you could have a 2 amp die grinder?
-
01-25-2009 04:41 PM #5
Last edited by pat mccarthy; 01-25-2009 at 05:04 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
-
01-25-2009 04:57 PM #6
The electric ones will have more power, at any rpm. I use foot rheostats to control power, to constantly change the rpms, as needed. (electric or air)
My air grinder has been in tool box for years, I never use it.
I am changing everything I can from air to eletric.
PatHemiTCoupe
Anyone can cut one up, but! only some can put it back together looking cool!
Steel is real, anyone can get a glass one.
Pro Street Full Fendered '27 Ford T Coupe -392 Hemi with Electornic Hilborn injection
1927 Ford T Tudor Sedan -CPI Vortec 4.3
'90 S-15 GMC pick up
-
01-25-2009 05:21 PM #7
I would buy one of these http://www.mytoolstore.com/makita/mak08-08.html
-
01-25-2009 05:28 PM #8
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
-
01-25-2009 05:37 PM #9
Look who else Like's that Grinder http://www.mondellotwister.com/ArtHeadPort.htm
-
01-25-2009 08:32 PM #10
Eastwood has a real nice set up, 1/2 HP motor and a flex shaft..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
01-26-2009 05:06 AM #11
Spray WD-40 on the bur and it won't load up. High speed or carbide.
I have been using 1/8", 1/4" (with & with out a flex shaft, & 90 dgree grinders every week on alumumn & steel/iron since early 70's I have top of the line name brands, and I have grinders that I paid $14.00 for, the old Dremel worked & last the best.
The only 1/4" one that I burned out was a Chicago electric, 3-5 mins after I started use it! still use the replacement one on lite stuff.
I have changed many brush's in all brands I've owned. Harder to get name brand brush's, alot of cheaper ones come with spare brush's. I work them hard most of the time when I use them.
PatHemiTCoupe
Anyone can cut one up, but! only some can put it back together looking cool!
Steel is real, anyone can get a glass one.
Pro Street Full Fendered '27 Ford T Coupe -392 Hemi with Electornic Hilborn injection
1927 Ford T Tudor Sedan -CPI Vortec 4.3
'90 S-15 GMC pick up
-
01-26-2009 05:40 AM #12
i use petroleum jelly with a acid brush but the thing is just to fast for my likeing needs a speed control and in time like you said you could burn the brush out of it fast . the way it is with out a speed control you will plug a alum carbide wd 40 is ok the mill /tapping cutting oil work s better but any thing spinning that fast you just burning any thing you put on the carbide i done a wee bit of this stuff to over the years but a could be wrongLast edited by pat mccarthy; 01-26-2009 at 05:53 AM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
-
01-26-2009 05:41 AM #13
-
01-26-2009 06:41 PM #14
Block looks nice, I know what it takes to get to that point, alot sitting with a grinder in hand. I like to put on head phones and get it to it all day, for days. I build Aluminum investment molds & plastic injection molds long before we had CNC's. lots of grinding.
I ground smooth all the welds on our '27 T frame with IRS, IFS.
I understand what you mean by to many rpm's. I like to use the foot controller on the 1/4" grinders(I'm usually sitting), and I like the controler on the grinder on the 1/8' ones(I'm all over the place, free to move).
PatHemiTCoupe
Anyone can cut one up, but! only some can put it back together looking cool!
Steel is real, anyone can get a glass one.
Pro Street Full Fendered '27 Ford T Coupe -392 Hemi with Electornic Hilborn injection
1927 Ford T Tudor Sedan -CPI Vortec 4.3
'90 S-15 GMC pick up
-
01-26-2009 08:10 PM #15
Thanks i have done many like this. i can do one fast now:dSMILE: .i do as well as head chambers port work on heads for harley s bike and intakes as well as auto heads and intakes . i did rims to for GM show cars i like to work with grinders and sanders to blend and form metals i fix busted blocks and blown up heads. i am doing some stuff at the shop right now. i may put some of it up on the form to show some guys how i fix busted stuff . the crank case timming cavity looks the same on that block to . over the years i have found for me anyways i like drum sanders and use more stones and MX or Cratex then carbide but i do use them i like to run them about the same speed as a drum sanders or a hair faster just to get a good cut thats all. the carbide for me if they start to plug up at hi speed start s to jump i worry about catching one in the face or blowing up one .i had one that was 6 inch long in a intake was a cheaply made bur it bent the 1/4 shaft on the mount and started to whip .with stones i can run them so much fast and if plug up they do not jump and i can cut them to size or unload them by using my bench grinder for frames and other big stuff on i have some of the see thru sanders they have holes in them so you can watch the cut i run on the small 4 1/2 angle grinders and move up to a 8 inch soft pad i use on a big variable speed sander with 80 grit zirconia abrasive then move up to a da sanderLast edited by pat mccarthy; 01-26-2009 at 08:25 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
Welcome to Club Hot Rod! The premier site for
everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more.
- » Members from all over the US and the world!
- » Help from all over the world for your questions
- » Build logs for you and all members
- » Blogs
- » Image Gallery
- » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts!
YES! I want to register an account for free right now! p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show
Thank you Roger. .
Another little bird