Thread: Boxing a frame
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01-27-2004 11:33 AM #1
Boxing a frame
I have a 1927 ford frame that I am using for my first t-bucket projuct. What is the best way to box the frame? Are there any articles out there in cyber land that would illustrate this?
Thanksslf
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01-27-2004 11:46 AM #2
Re: Boxing a frame
Originally posted by 27 Bucket Head
What is the best way to box the frame? Are there any articles out there in cyber land that would illustrate this?
ThanksYour Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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01-27-2004 12:49 PM #3
bob - do people not box frames anyomre, or is this specific to the T becasue of its flimsy frame? I am planning on boxing a 50 Chevy frame, is this a waste?
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01-27-2004 02:30 PM #4
Steve,
Specific to the T and A (that'll get some of the horny letches going huh? ) for that matter. Any of those early, spindly frames that weren't that stout to begin with and then have 70 or so years of fatique to boot.Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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01-27-2004 06:13 PM #5
Thanks, Bob, for the quick reply, however, I am on a small budget and will try to make due with what I have. This bucket was made in 1970 and basically, I am just doing a restoration on it. If things work out well, I will probably move on to a High Boy and then to a coupe after that. Eventually, I would like to build a Cobra Kit car.slf
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01-27-2004 06:20 PM #6
Thanks, Bob, for the quick reply, however, I am on a small budget and need to try to make due with what I have. This bucket was made in 1970 and basically, I am just doing a restoration on it. If things work out well, I will probably move on to a High Boy and then to a coupe after that. Eventually, I would like to build a Cobra Kit car. The body on this is welded to the frame and there are some other less desireable traits that I will be working with, but I need to keep things simple-at least this time around. I liked your pictures. Are you located in southern Utah by any chance? Thanks again...slf
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01-27-2004 07:24 PM #7
If you have the frame and it was modified to be a t bucket hotrod frame, just referbish it.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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01-27-2004 09:14 PM #8
Listen to Bob. I have seen dozens of these over the years & The new frame made from 2"x4" retangular tubing is the way to go. It's very inexpensive to build.
I have seen boxed T frames twist out of shape cracking the fiberglas body in the process. The original frame was made to twist & this lead to work hardening the frame. If you look at the frame carefully you will probably see cracks in it.Don Meyer, PhD-Mech Engr(48 GMC Trk/chopped/cab extended/caddy fins & a GM converted Rolls Royce Silver Shadow).
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01-28-2004 06:33 AM #9
A new tube frame is the best way to go. I started trying to box my original frame, and it was just taking too long. I made an entire frame for my '37 with 2x4 tube for $110 worth of steel.
If you have all the dimensions and tools, you could make one in a weekend easily.
-measure 5 times - cut once - drive straight.Andy
My project build video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iubRRojY9qM
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01-28-2004 11:25 AM #10
Where did you get your material? All of the welding shops around here would charge that just for one frame rail. What did you use for a plan?
Thanks
Steveslf
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01-28-2004 01:15 PM #11
Go to wescottsauto.com they have the blueprints ya need for free...
I built my 31 A chassis out of 2x4 and 2x3
.120 wall rectangular using wescotts plans, came out very nice.. Got the metal from the local steel yard 24 feet of 2x4 was around $65 ??
and 12 feet of 2x3 was around $40 only other thing I had to buy was the stamped cross member at $79 and a couple weekends of work, looks as good as anything you can buy
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01-28-2004 01:19 PM #12
don't buy your steel at a welding shop. you will be paying extra middlemen. i will have to say that I purchased my steel before the big price increase, but it shouldn't be that much more.
i bought two sticks of 2x4 and two 1x2.
i got a dimensioned drawing of the frame, and made a drawing on autocad. i'm not exactly familiar with a 27 frame, but i'm sure it's a simpler design.
all you need is a good welder, a metal chop saw, measuring tape, level, and a little arrogance.Andy
My project build video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iubRRojY9qM
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01-28-2004 03:38 PM #13
Geez, guys. Thanks for all of the information!! If you haven't seen the website that Streets was talking about, do so. It sjows a great step by step proccess. Now I know what you are talking about-building your own. That makes a pretty smooth project. Just one more question-When you build one from scratch like that, how do you get a good title so that you don't have to comply with all of the 2004 rules and regs?
Thanks again
Steveslf
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01-30-2004 07:25 AM #14
I had the same Idea picked up a cheap t frame seen a few boxed ones and was going to box the one I picked up for $50 and step the rear, but now I am definately going to reconsider the box tubing idea sounds way stronger and cheaper to fab in the long run. thanks all!!like a volvo with gun racks.....
dropin f-bombs whenever needed....fcc my
28 model A
67 chevy c10
91 ford ranger
several beater mustangs from 80-89
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01-31-2004 12:13 PM #15
Steve I had a 37 chevy and a 41 ford pickup that I thought i would box the frame. Big mistake on the 41. Even though I did a good job the frame whick was not in good shape to start with twisted under the torqueof the 350 I put in it. I made a new frame from 2x3 metal. your frame is even older that the one I tried so your best bet is to make a new frame. BartKeep smiling, it only hurts when you think it does!
Getting closer on this project. What a lot of work!
Stude M5 build