Thread: Roll Cage

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Thanks This help's alot Techinspector, I guess I'm gonna have to come
through the back window at a angle then.
There is not alot of sheet metal around the rear window.
So the back window is gonna have to be plexy glass now,
I guess. Thanks again Kurt.

Is this a truck? All along, I thought we were working on a car.

Hey Tech; This is a 65 Rancheo. HE! HE! HE! Kurt



And here is my buddies car's web site.

Hey; Techinspector I just added a photo of the back of the Ranchero.
The old 65 Ranchero's only has about 1 1/2 to 2 inches top's from the
top of the roof to the inside edge of the window lip,where the window
seal rides. That's why I was wondering if it was legal to bend the B bars
to come strait thru the back window. Other wise I'll have to come in at
a angle, Then I'm gonna have to try to find away to seal the back
window up. Mostly because of the angle the bars will go thru at.
Any ideas for this problem? It will be connected to the top of the hoop.
If you check out the photo on my web link you can see the back window
area, Thanks Kurt

Same situation on mine, Kurt. I'm going to run the back bars through the panel above the back window, don't really see any other way to get them to the top of the main hoop without making the hole in the sheet metal....

Hey Dave; This is my point, I don't have enough room to go thru above the window.
I'm gonna have to go thru the window, There is only 1 inch between the top of the
roof and the inside lip where the rubber seal goes for the back window.
Gonna have to use plexie glass, So what I'm trying to find out is can I bend the tops
of the B bars in or down to go strait thru the window, instead of at a angle.
Thanks Kurt

Well Guys; Dave Severson was not lying when he said it take's a real man to cut one up.
Well I’ve been cutting for three day’s trying to get the car ready to put the new frame in.
I’m freaken worn out and I am still not done.
Unibody my butt, they should have called it a every ware body!
There is 20 different beams under this thing going every which way.
They would have saved on material, if they would have just put a solid
frame under the thing.
I’m almost ready now any way and I got to find out how much this
old body will take.
And that ain’t much these days, Now who’s got my bottle.
HE! HE! HE! Kurt

Originally Posted by vara4

Well Guys; Dave Severson was not lying when he said it take's a real man to cut one up.
Well I’ve been cutting for three day’s trying to get the car ready to put the new frame in.
I’m freaken worn out and I am still not done.
Unibody my butt, they should have called it a every ware body!
There is 20 different beams under this thing going every which way.
They would have saved on material, if they would have just put a solid
frame under the thing.
I’m almost ready now any way and I got to find out how much this
old body will take.
And that ain’t much these days, Now who’s got my bottle.
HE! HE! HE! Kurt

Well, if it was easy, everybody would be doing it and I'd have to go get a real job!!!!!!

My hat is off to you Dave, I could not do this every day.
I have not worked this hard since I was in my 30's.
They must have put something on the passenger side floor.
It was not rusted out like the drivers side was and it took for
ever to cut thru it. Anyway I'm leaving the fire wall and the back
wall of the cab in for now. This way it will give the body some extra
strength till I get the new frme up and in.
But they both will come out after that, since both are rusted thru.
Kurt

Bracing car for new frame?
Ok Here is where I am at guy's.
I made plates to go over the door hinges and the door stops.
I put a big X acrossed the inside of the cab.
Now I am leaving in the fire wall and the back wall behind the cab.
I am going to leave a brase that is clear in the back of the bed.
Oh this is a 65 Ranchero, by the way.
Now I am going to cut out the rest of the floor.
All the brases will be remove except the very back brase
and the one I built in the cab of the truck.
Will this be enough till I get the new fram up in the car?
Kurt

Hey Guy's I got some new Photo's up of my frame and cross member. Kurt

That should hold it together just fine Kurt. Some good progress on the Ranchero, frame should be under it soon.

Hey guy's
Did you get a chance to check out my photo’s yet?
If so what did you think?
I know I still got a ways to go, but it’s really starting
to come along now though.
I got about half the bed cut out now, and dropped
the rear end out.
I’m glad I decided not to restore it to stock, too much
is rusted way.
The farther I get, the more I find that’s rusted thru.
The entire frame behind the cab was totally filled
with sand and rocks.
I would not have believed it if I had not seen it with
my own eyes.
The driver’s side frame was so bad that I could poke
thru it with a screw driver.
But no worries that’s all getting cut out anyway,
to make room for the new frame.
I’m also gonna have to rebuild the back half of the
passenger side door jam.
It’s rusted completely thru as well.
I’ll try to get some more photo’s up as soon as possible.
Who knew that cutting thru a rust out frame would take
so long, I guess the sand and rocks were not meant to
be parted with a cutting torch. I think I would have had
more luck trying to make glass out of it. HE! HE! HE!
With all the cars that you have done Dave, I bet you've
run in to this before. What a pain in the butt trying to
get all that stuff out of the frame, just to cut it.
Kurt

Wow! Sounds like your's was in worse shape then mine, Kurt!!!! But heck, I don't restore anything anyway!!!!! An access hole and a really good shop vac is a good way to clean out a lot of those hidden places before the cutting commences.... Not unusual to get 20 lbs. of rocks, gravel, sand, and junk out of a car when it comes apart.....

I bought a cage for my 62 Impala from S&W race cars DOM tubing. Not big bucks, just notch and weld in, about $250.00 and that's shipped.