Thread: Need tips for installing wheel tubs

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Hey Guy's ; Ineed some tips since this is a first for me.
When istalling new wheel tubs do I remove all of the old wheel wells.
Or should I leave some of a lip or some this from the outer skin of the fender.
I'm getting ready to cut out the stuff I don't need now.
These are original from 1965 and are beat up real bad with rust and all in them. Just not sure how I would conect them to the outer skin without warping it. Kurt

you cut the tubes so the fit up is very good down to 1/8 then some sealer to seal them if you glass them or tack weld them every time the 1/4 flexs it will pull a dent or line .as for fitting the tubs i done some. it is one of them deals on how i could tell you how i do them by taking to you .but my typing skills are not that good or spelling so for me putting in the tubs would be e z er for me

Ok Pat thanks; I'm gonna completely remove the old wheel wells then.
Kurt

Originally Posted by vara4

Ok Pat thanks; I'm gonna completely remove the old wheel wells then.
Kurt

cut small

On mine, I decided that I wanted to butt Weld them in, so I put them where I wanted them, then I drilled a couple of holes and Cleco'd them on (you can use sheet metal screws). Then, I used a cutoff wheel and made a cut so that my Air Hacksaw would have a place to start cutting, and I angled the blade so that it would be as narrow as possible. After the cutting was done, I simply pulled the Cleco's out and let the old Tub fall out, and the new Tub was in the correct position to tack in. After that, I used a Seam Sealer-I assume they are Steel Tubs?

As for warping treat it like you would an exterior panel-skip around on your spot welds (nice, hot tack welds/Mig), and let them cool-keep your patience, and it will keep warpage to a minimum-some guys (like me) are impatient and use compressed air to cool the weld

I think it all depends on if you are going to butt weld or flange it-I just don't like to flange becuase I am concerned about moisture getting in behind the weld and rusting-

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that works on car like yours an have built them for willys and other. but when you get into say a gto /chevelle yor are going to be way past were the old inner was. it will not be there to hook on to . if you going to lower the car and use a 33 tall tire the new tub will be up to the top of the inside 1/4 and if you weld to the outer 1/4skin you will have spots in the mid part of the 1/4 the tub were it will allways pull on the skin. you will see it. were it was welded on to the out side of the 1/4 skin. when it pulls on the 1/4 it will show from just lifting the car up or just any flex that a 1/4 would see.have seen this first hand as well as fix two cars that were done this way .any time you have flex you will have dimples showing in the 1/4

You hit that right on the nose Pat.
These tubs should be almost to the top of the truck bed.
It's gonna be a challenge to cut these things out and
match them to the inside of the fenders.
Here's a photo of before I started on it.
You can see I've got about three body lines to match up.
Kurt

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kurtvara/3350580093/

Is the inner box a double wall on that? The iner will be prettty easy to get the 1/2 cicle once you have decided ont the height, getting the outer lined up will be tougher. Remer like pat said cut small as you can alway finish grind bigger to get a nice tight fit,Any thoughts from anyone on trimming/flanging the outer(to outer 1/4 panel) part of the tub and using durabond to attatch to the outer potion of the 1/4.

the out side outer to 1/4 (wheel lip flange) gets cut loose with a cut off wheel make. sure you do not cut thru to out side of the 1/4 after that part is trimed out . grinding it so there no sharp spots and it looks good .this can be done by flipping a 36 grit sanding dics upside down on a 4 1./2 angle sander/grinder. watch your fingers. then you have this all done cut just the old tub out to get your new tire to fit up there.were you want it to fit. with the truck on the ground or off. this can be done many way s. if off the ground by shiming tire up in the hole on a milkcrate . first thing on a build i drop the car or truck to were i want it and get ride heigth.i go off the rockers and wright them numbers down. you want the tub to be up past that so your not bottoming out on the tubs . you can draw around tire with a marker till you have the room you need then add another 3 inch on top of that s is were you tub will sit. with that side cut and trimed now make tin plate out of card board . so you do not have to go all thru this on the other side cut low trim to final fit THIS TAKES ALOT OF TIME . if there off side to side they will look like crap so take time and think about every cut .there still alot more to this i post some more later

Thanks Guys; Right now I'm just cutting them out, but I needed to know how
much to cut away. I first have to replace the the lower sections of the sheet
metal on both side. So I'm gonna cut below the bottom body lines from the
front door all the way back. Both inner and outer sheet metal is rusted thru
so that's all gotta get cut out. Then the hard part will be the drivers side
rear corner [tail light section]. That was smashed before I got the car and
is nothing but bondo. I've allready got the new piece for that from
Desert Valley, a good solid piece too no rust. So much to do not sure
where to start. On the lower skins I'm gonna cut out the side ways tear drop
shape but I'm not gonna flare the lip. The front of the bottom of the fenders
is folded under on the edge like it was done on a brake and behind the wheel
well is rolled under. Now where to start, HE! HE! HE! Kurt