Thread: body filler question

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Weld the joints then LEAD

"Strong body filler" is an oxymoron

Originally Posted by ohekk

Weld the joints then LEAD

"Strong body filler" is an oxymoron

Lead??? Unless you have some rat holed from years ago, it's unavailable. Was outlawed by the feds years ago. The new body fillers are plenty strong when used properly....

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Lead??? Unless you have some rat holed from years ago, it's unavailable. Was outlawed by the feds years ago. The new body fillers are plenty strong when used properly....

yep you better know what your doing first getting out there on a roof with a torch and a stick of leadi did the nose of the 50 hood and stop there chevy has lead work on it i did many years ago it abit of a pain in the ass. if the metal work is good the filler should not be thick so it should not crack

I see that on a lot of the car shows they use Duraglass, the one with strands in it. Not sure if it is a good finish filler because of the strands, but it does have more strength and crack resistance, I think. I have used Rage and like the way it faired in and sanded.

You can buy new leads that are supposed to be less toxic than the old ones, I think, but modern plastic fillers are so much better unless you are a hardcore traditionalist.............you know, the kind who only runs 1950 air in his tires. Once you put the paint on, who knows what's under there anyways?

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

I see that on a lot of the car shows they use Duraglass, the one with strands in it. Not sure if it is a good finish filler because of the strands, but it does have more strength and crack resistance, I think. I have used Rage and like the way it faired in and sanded.

You can buy new leads that are supposed to be less toxic than the old ones, I think, but modern plastic fillers are so much better unless you are a hardcore traditionalist.............you know, the kind who only runs 1950 air in his tires. Once you put the paint on, who knows what's under there anyways?

Don

There's also a short strand Duraglass that works quite well and as Pat mentioned Marson also makes a very good short strand and long strand 'glass filler.

I learned body work using lead, no way I'd go back to using it with the quality of good fillers available today. Products and technology change constantly. Lead was used because it was the only product available at the time. It's a very time consuming process and takes many, many hours to learn to do it correctly. I haven't tried any of these new "lead like" processes, and can't really see any reason to bother..... For the "traditionalists", think I still have a couple lead pots laying under the bench someplace. I'll trade them for a gallon can of Evercoat Gold anytime someone wants to drop by!!!!!!!!

Duraglass rocks, it is the short strand filler.. The long strand product is called Long and strong...I'd still use something softer over it for surfacing like an Evercoat glaze..I wasn't around in the lead days

Originally Posted by Evolvo

Don't want to hijack the post, but I'm wondering if these new body fillers are up to the job of adjusting door gaps? Or is this still an edge weld and grind operation? I can't ever imagine that I would park my car close enough to another that the door would hit when opened.
Thanx,
Alan

no they are not still .i still cold welded them and file them to fit the gaps