Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Welder
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    27 Bucket Head is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Cherokee, Iowa
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1927 Ford T Bucket
    Posts
    17

    Welder

     



    I am a novice car builder. Would a 135 amp 120 volt mig welder be a good investment? I don't really have the funds to go with a 220 volt at this time.

    Thanks
    slf

  2. #2
    HWORRELL's Avatar
    HWORRELL is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    ST.LOUIS
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 FORD 5 WINDOW,69 442, 305 sprint car,
    Posts
    1,410

    As long as you buy a quality welder--Miller--Hobart.. Iv'e been using my Hobart handler(120 volt) for years
    It'll do anything you need to do in street or race car fab....

  3. #3
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Salado
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32, 40 Fords,
    Posts
    10,859

    Most knowledgable welders, and the manufacturers of these units, will tell you that these 110v models are great for sheet metal, and light duty bracketry, but are not heavy duty enough for fabricating a frame (such as your previous posts would indicate). At best they will do 3/16th (.187) material, usually meaning flat stock. Trying to weld box tubing correctly would be much more difficult. How you could do it would be to use the 110v unit to tack your frame together, then take it to a certified welder for finish welding where they have equipment for proper penetration.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  4. #4
    Don Meyer is offline Moderator Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    St Cloud
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 GMC trk & a 66 Rolls Royce
    Posts
    532

    The rule of thumb is you need a 220v for frame work(10 gage & thicker) but, 115 will sufice for body work up to 14 gage.If you can not afford a 220v MIG, I would but a stick welder.
    I use a 250 amp TIG or a 200 amp MIG for my frame work but, a 160 amp would work fine.

    My welders are Miller because they are real reliable & they were what I was certified on however, Lincoln &Hobard area also good. Hobard is probably the cheapest. They have a 185 amp that is available. Look on-lne for the cheapest prices.
    Don Meyer, PhD-Mech Engr(48 GMC Trk/chopped/cab extended/caddy fins & a GM converted Rolls Royce Silver Shadow).

  5. #5
    76GMC1500 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    1,176

    Miller donated an entire welding lab to my school so you should support them because they're cool like that.

  6. #6
    rattymodelA is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    chicago,il
    Car Year, Make, Model: 28 chopped channeled A
    Posts
    88

    I have a century gs155 120volt 20amp mig welder and a lincoln 225 amp 220volt stick welder both I have been pretty happy with it so far it has tackled many jobs I thought it wouldn't be able to do...really the duty cycle is what you are looking for most of these base type welders have a cheap transformer that can only support part time usage at the higher settings...the hobart, lincoln, miller, and htp all have something that will work for you the more expensive the better the duty cycle. If your on a budget I know cambell housefield and craftsmen have a few inexpensive models that will do light stuff sheet metal some up to 3/8 inch for short bursts. If you have can hold out I would get one above what you can afford because the one you can afford sometimes limits the performance you want. I am sure you can look at a farm and fleet should have one in IA they have a great selection of Hobart welders and I think homedepot has some of the lincoln stuff they still sell the stick welder I have and it hasn't changed a bit in 20 years. Hope this helps
    like a volvo with gun racks.....
    dropin f-bombs whenever needed....fcc my
    28 model A
    67 chevy c10
    91 ford ranger
    several beater mustangs from 80-89

  7. #7
    KC2006 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Columbus
    Car Year, Make, Model: 83 monte carlo
    Posts
    30

    I was at Harbor frieght the other day (don't shop there much due to the mostly foreign stuff) and i noticed they have hobart welders there. I just noticed the name but didn't look to see what size they were. I noticed the most expensive was like 480 bucks and it was wirefeed. Are these any good?

    I'm going to need a welder to do some work with my monte and future projects and I can't afford anything really great, I'll have to look into the 480 dollar one since i can live with that price.
    I gots to know

  8. #8
    27 Bucket Head is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Cherokee, Iowa
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1927 Ford T Bucket
    Posts
    17

    Thanks gang...
    slf

  9. #9
    Ed ke6bnl is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Agua Dulce, So. Calif.
    Car Year, Make, Model: 50 ford F1, 53 chevy AD 3100, 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    90

    Originally posted by Don Meyer
    The rule of thumb is you need a 220v for frame work(10 gage & thicker) but, 115 will sufice for body work up to 14 gage.If you can not afford a 220v MIG, I would but a stick welder.
    I use a 250 amp TIG or a 200 amp MIG for my frame work but, a 160 amp would work fine.

    My welders are Miller because they are real reliable & they were what I was certified on however, Lincoln &Hobard area also good. Hobard is probably the cheapest. They have a 185 amp that is available. Look on-lne for the cheapest prices.
    I have a lincoln sp130 and a miller tig older unit, but I would like to know if anyone has any experience with HTP welders seem a lot for the money. Need to remember that flux wire will give a lot more penetration for thicker material. Ed ke6bnl
    Ed ke6bnl@juno.com
    1963 Ford Econoline 5 window
    1950 Ford F1 pu
    1948 Ford F3 pu
    1953 Chevy 3100 AD
    1970 Chevy Short bed c10
    1972 El Camino chopped top

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink