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Thread: Setting adjustable proportioning valve???
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    brianrupnow's Avatar
    brianrupnow is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Setting adjustable proportioning valve???

     



    I have completed the front disc brake installation in my roadster pickup, and I am curious about setting the adjustable proportioning valve in the rear brake line. As I remember from a similar installation about 13 years ago, you set it so that when the brakes are applied, the rear drum brakes engage slightly before the front discs, so as to keep the car in a straight line when stopping. First question---Have I got that right? and, Second question---How the heck can you tell something like that???---Brian
    Old guy hot rodder

  2. #2
    brianrupnow's Avatar
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    Damn---I had it backwards.--Just read in the Hortons catalogue that "Fronts should lock up just before the rears to keep the rear end from skidding around."---still, as in my previous post, this is a hard thing to determine.
    Old guy hot rodder

  3. #3
    atichargr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianrupnow View Post
    Damn---I had it backwards.--Just read in the Hortons catalogue that "Fronts should lock up just before the rears to keep the rear end from skidding around."---still, as in my previous post, this is a hard thing to determine.
    I have not had to do this before ... but I do remeber reading somewhere that you can do this on a slick surface such as gravel... you want the front to lock up just before the rears.... I hope this helps you .. the only other way I would think to do it is where some pressure guages..

    simon

  4. #4
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    I had heard to use a large parking lot. Make progressively aggressive stops, and small adjustments of the prop. valve until you get it 'feeling' right.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
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  5. #5
    DA34GUY's Avatar
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    Brian----
    Close the valve, open all the way and count the turns out, turn in 50% and yer good to go.
    Has worked for me on the last 25 or 30 I've done.
    Good luck
    When I get to where I was goin, I forgot why I went there>

  6. #6
    kitz's Avatar
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    sorry I didn't see this. Good procedure;

    http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...lve/index.html

    Kitz
    Jon Kitzmiller, MSME, PhD EE, 32 Ford Hiboy Roadster, Cornhusker frame, Heidts IFS/IRS, 3.50 Posi, Lone Star body, Lone Star/Kitz internal frame, ZZ502/550, TH400

  7. #7
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    If you have a brake pressure gauge, check the pressure at the master cylinder, then at the front and the rear. Brake pressure should work well at about 60/40 front to rear.... Counting the turns on the knob is probably just as good, and a whole lot cheaper then buying a brake pressure gauge if you don't already have one....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  8. #8
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    I have a lot better luck using a factory type pro valve. It also separates the front
    from rear if you have a leak on one end. I went thru this pretty thoroughly. I'm
    assuming you used dual m/c.
    A Ranchero is NOT an El Camino

  9. #9
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    Count the turns. Start in the middleof the range.

    We did it on a sandy parking lot with my Willys. Once we got it set about right I tried it from about 40 mph. Emergency stop. Those big Hoosiers on the rear are incredible. The car stops very hard and straight. Brakes don't even get hot. About 250 with my heat gage.
    41 Willys 350 sbc 6-71 blower t350, 9in, 4 link
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    older than dirt

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