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06-23-2009 01:36 PM #1
51 Chevy radiator replacment question HELP!
Last week my 51 Belair started to overheat. So I change the usual, hoses, thermostat, water pump. She was still overheating and I noticed not much flow thru the radiator. Took out the thermostat (160') and still no flow. Change the waterpump again for a new one instead of rebuilt. Still overheating but I notice the lower hose is colapsing when I rev the engine which is an indication of a blockage. Call the local radiator shop and he tells me that OSHA wont let him work on the old radiators anymore! Cant rod it out or do anything to it.
So....long story short.....anyone know what LATE model radiator I can swap out with the original one? Im running a SBC engine.
I know someone out there has done this.....It would be so nice to just go to the local autozone and order a new radiator....Thanks for any input!Trust everyone once. Just be cautious of what may be lost.
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06-23-2009 01:47 PM #2
What are the dimensions? Early Mustang radiators are usually a good fit some of the earlier cars or check 55-57 Chevys.Livin' on Route 66
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06-23-2009 02:51 PM #3
your not going to swap out to another rad less it a 49 and up to 53/54? not sure were the cut off is on that rad. but i know what i have in my chevy i used a about a f 150 ford rad 1975 or so. i rework it abit for fit so you may be better buying a new rad for your 51 there is companys that make a drop in sIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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06-23-2009 04:19 PM #4
Mustang may be an option.....if the hose connectors are in the same place...but whats the advantage to going 55-57? Im trying to avoid the custom built radiator tax!! I dont give a crap what it looks like, I just want to be able to drive the darn thing! I bought this car to use for the season till my T is on the road and then sell it.....Im already over budget and just want a safe and reliable vehicle.....the next owner can worry about making it pretty!!......
PS....the dimensions are almost square....23 X 23. the top hose is in the center and the bottom is on the Passenger side. The top hose can be re-positioned, but the bottom cant be.Trust everyone once. Just be cautious of what may be lost.
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06-23-2009 05:15 PM #5
well the hose outlets can be made to work i made a lower hose out of header tubing to get the bottom hose were it needed then use abit of rubber hose in the hook up for engine movement when i had it record i had them moved .i was were you are 20 years ago with mine i look thru many rad books to find some thing to fit in the hole i do not think your going to get a 55/57 rad in there????Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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06-23-2009 06:51 PM #6
if you can't find anything else to fit. Chevsofthe40s does sell radiators for them fairly cheap.. a new replacement should keep it cool as you had a somewhat plugged up to the task..
as for the old rad, if it has the stampings on the top tank, and original to the car. don't throw it out.. the tanks are valuble as they hold the correct markings that the replacements don't.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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06-23-2009 07:20 PM #7
Have you tried any of the flush chemicals, I had a chevy II that did the same, had to run 3 time of flush before it broke loose. the next week i had to replace the water pump again (chemical eat the seal)........LOL should have put the old pump back on first. If not the top and bottom tank should only brazed, and crimped. If you remove them you could run a rod thru the tubes. If you don't want to rebraze the tanks you could epoxy them back.
BradcSome days it's not even worth chewing thru the restraints !
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06-23-2009 07:35 PM #8
Are you sure it's not just the bottom hose? They get weak and collapse. Find one with a wire coil inside it, or for a "farmer fix" to see if it's the problem, put a few hose clamps on it to keep it round, and test drive it. Or wrap some heavy wire around it to do the same thing.
I put a '55 Chev rad in my '54 when I put in a 283, bolted right in but a little shorter and thicker.
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06-23-2009 07:48 PM #9
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06-23-2009 09:24 PM #10
I'd try another radiator shop. Find an old one that does trucks and heavy equipment. I bet your first guy just didn't want to try.
Don
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06-23-2009 10:31 PM #11
You might want to check out this guy on Ebay. $ 250 is very reasonable.
Don
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1949-...Q5fAccessories
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06-23-2009 10:45 PM #12
If you can't find a shop to do the work & you decide you want to try and fix it yourself go buy a couple of gallons of vinegar.
Calcium(which is most likely your build up) hates Vinegar, remove the radiator & lay it flat & fill it up & let it sit for a few days. The vinegar will eat the calcium, this is what I used to clean my C-pap machine and other appliances that hold water & get a calcium build up......joeDonate Blood,Plasma,Platelets & sign your DONORS CARD & SAVE a LIFE
Two possibilities exist:
Either we are alone in the Universe or we are not.
Both are equally terrifying.
Arthur C. Clarke
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06-24-2009 07:46 AM #13
Here's a 55 Chevy Radiator I got for my 50 Stude. Its close to 23" x 23" not exactly sure. I need to go measure it. But was a perfect fit for mine.
Livin' on Route 66
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06-24-2009 11:59 AM #14
What are the dimensions of your existing radiator? I think that most of the early 50's (Chevy) up until 58 radiators were about the same size; most of the differences were in the brackets. Performance Radiator list a new 55 Chev radiator, which might work.
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06-24-2009 01:19 PM #15
There's a guy on Ebay called KMJ Performance. I bought one for the V8 Chevette I built for $149.00 brand new. Nice radiator and he's got a lot of different sizes available. This was without the built in trans cooler.
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