Thread: Wiring How To

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TRASH those cheapier crimpers. They aren't worth the powder to blow them to hell.

The next pictured, was a STAKON type.. they can work well, IF you squeeze them hard enough. If you have a pile of crimps to do, your wrist will be mighty sore by the time you are done. I've come behind plenty of STAKON crimps, and had to replace them becaus they were under crimped. Again, it's a matter of squeezing them hard enough to do the job.

the ratchet style crimpers are also prone to failure.. due to over crimping. I beg to differ with the engineers whom made them, but one setting is not going to be perfect for every crimp.

Now, the ratchet style crimpers usually have great leverage, so you get a better crimp with less squeeze, and therefore your wrist is not so sore when the job is done. But, personally, I remove the ratchets.

Now, here is my favorite tool:
http://www.lobtex.co.jp/products/den...15a/index.html
LOBSTER crimper tool... I've never used better! This tool works well for insulated and non insulated terminals, although it is rated for non insulated only. As with any crimper tool with a ratchet design, they can be prone to over-crimping. SO.. I remove the ratchet. These particualr crimpers have excellent leverage, and will produce a perfect crimp every time ( once you get a feel for it ). I've spent entire 8 hour shifts crimping terminals, and my wrist is not sore at the end of the day.

A QUALITY crimp tool makes all the difference. Same with your strippers. Get a good quality KLEIN wire stripper and you'll thank yourself. When I have a whole day of stripping wires, I really like to use an automatic stripper. Talk about saving your wrist and fingers! Just lay the end of the wire in the tool, and squeeze. Perfect strip every time!

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

TRASH those cheapier crimpers. They aren't worth the powder to blow them to hell.

The next pictured, was a STAKON type.. they can work well, IF you squeeze them hard enough. If you have a pile of crimps to do, your wrist will be mighty sore by the time you are done. I've come behind plenty of STAKON crimps, and had to replace them becaus they were under crimped. Again, it's a matter of squeezing them hard enough to do the job.

the ratchet style crimpers are also prone to failure.. due to over crimping. I beg to differ with the engineers whom made them, but one setting is not going to be perfect for every crimp.

Now, the ratchet style crimpers usually have great leverage, so you get a better crimp with less squeeze, and therefore your wrist is not so sore when the job is done. But, personally, I remove the ratchets.

Now, here is my favorite tool:
http://www.lobtex.co.jp/products/den...15a/index.html
LOBSTER crimper tool... I've never used better! This tool works well for insulated and non insulated terminals, although it is rated for non insulated only. As with any crimper tool with a ratchet design, they can be prone to over-crimping. SO.. I remove the ratchet. These particualr crimpers have excellent leverage, and will produce a perfect crimp every time ( once you get a feel for it ). I've spent entire 8 hour shifts crimping terminals, and my wrist is not sore at the end of the day.

A QUALITY crimp tool makes all the difference. Same with your strippers. Get a good quality KLEIN wire stripper and you'll thank yourself. When I have a whole day of stripping wires, I really like to use an automatic stripper. Talk about saving your wrist and fingers! Just lay the end of the wire in the tool, and squeeze. Perfect strip every time!

That website is literally in japanese lol. Thanks, I will look into those products.



I appreciate all the suggestions, tips, and opinions thus far. Keep them coming!

I never could solder wires, maybe didn't have a good gun. Well anyway I use crimp connectors for everything. I have a good Thomas and Betts crimper, Channelock sells the same one (Don already mentioned). I do use the insulated connectors a lot but for a harness I would get the uninsulated ones and use heat shrink on them. Tear apart a factory harness and that's what you will probably find. Very few soldered connections in one. I also like to index the seam on the connectors so the dimple on the crimp is opposite of the seam in the connector, seems anal but it is a much better crimp than any other position IMO.
Other than that just keep it clean, keep the wires cut at the correct lengths, use good wire, lots of retaining clips and loom. Plastic loom is easiest but I like the old braided kind better. Also I tear apart factory looms for the wire, it is good quality and you get lots of different colors.

I use crimps and lots of heat shrink. My current car has no tape anywhere on wires. Tape just make a gooy mess IMHO.
Here is a site to get about any wire related stuff.
http://www.waytekwire.com/CatPDF.htm
I probably have in excess of $700 in terminals, wire, and connectors. As it turns out just as with nuts and bolts, you always seem to be short of the last connector of don't stock them so Monday you have to order another pack. haha
The dash shot is similar to mine today. I added and AFR gage and a transmission oil temp. Simple enough. haha
Drain the trans pan...Exon Valdez on the floor. Clean the pan and floor figure out where to put the sensor bung...oops welded on the front instead of the side. Luckily it clears and may be a better choice anyway. Install Lokar locking dip stick...no problem, slick item fixes major leak. Re install pan with new filter and gasket and fluid. Carefully torque the bolts. No leaks. Then....
Drop the exhaust pipes and install O2 sensor bungs after making sure the sensors can be installed. Reinstall pipes.
Mark dash for 2 new gages and find that 2 in hole saw has seen better days so use 1 7/8. have to ream out holes being careful not to chip gel coat. Also add holes for LED indicator and calibration switch. AFR module has 6 wires to connect. Simple hahah They are micro wires probably 28 gage or smaller I can hardly see them. It takes the better part of the afernoon to route the module wires then I have to hook them to the gage and the cal swith and LED. Oh I forgot my car is plastic so I need good grounds. My big ground terminal board is full so I have to connect up another one. AFR recommends grounding directly to the block so another wire has to go thru the firewall grommet. More time. Finally get everytime hooked up. Then....
On to the AM temp gage. Already have run the sensor wire up thru the firewall grommet. It needs a ground, good, already have a nice new ground board. have to make it removable with connectors so the dash can be later painted so more time making secure but removable connections. Try to keep things neat and orderly. Luckily I had all the right color wires and the small connectors from another install. Finished except for re hanging the dash and its attachments. Sure would have been nice to think about these additions when I did the original gage install.

Moral of story is; plan far, far ahead and don't go cheapo on supplies and crimpers. Add ons and redos really take their toll later on.

Interesting side. I recently completed a wiring job that I quoted and the customer choked at the price. So I said well, line out the items you don't want me to install and I'll adjust the price according. He chopped about 1/3 of the price off. As I was nearing completion of my part he simple said just go and finish what I lined out too plus install the AC. Net affect was increase the bill to original (agreed on) plus agreed cost of AC install.