Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Brake question
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Olivehurst, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Studebaker Custom w/LS1
    Posts
    1,900

    Brake question

     



    I am not satisfied with the way my Studebaker is stopping. I have disk brakes on the front that came from an 88 Monte Carlo. As far as I know they are the stock units. I ordered a set of semi-metallic pads and cross drilled and slotted rotors. I have the pads but unfortunately the rotors are back ordered. I have my Hot August Nights trip coming next week and was really hoping to have new brakes up front before going. Now, here is my question. I am thinking of having my existing rotors turned and installing the new pads so I have them for the roughly 400 mile trip. Will it be reasonable after doing that, to install the new rotors when they come? Will I have an adverse impact from the pads getting 400 miles of use on the old rotors, some of it mountain driving?

    thanks for your thoughts

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  2. #2
    nitrowarrior's Avatar
    nitrowarrior is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Mesa
    Posts
    1,385

    What size brake line are you utilizing for the front?
    Disc brakes get slow to stop even with high grade pads and discs if the lines are over sized.
    What if the "Hokey Pokey" is what it's really all about?

  3. #3
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Olivehurst, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Studebaker Custom w/LS1
    Posts
    1,900

    Thanks for the response. I am not there to measure them, but the lines to the front are smaller than the ones to the rear. I believe that is configured correctly.

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  4. #4
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    should be 3/16 what pads are you using now
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  5. #5
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Olivehurst, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Studebaker Custom w/LS1
    Posts
    1,900

    I am not sure what the current pads are. They were on the car when I got it. They are riveted and appear somewhat glazed. They have quite a few miles on them, but I am not typically hard on brakes. My Silverado has 75k miles on it still with original brakes. I tend to drive way ahead of myself.

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  6. #6
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    if they are not cut in just glazed i would wash them good, da the old rotors with 80 grit if bad them get them turned wash them good and put a set of perfomance friction carbon pads till you get your new stuff. i like the carbon pads on my chevy .i drive hard
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  7. #7
    HemiTCoupe's Avatar
    HemiTCoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Deer Lodge
    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 T Coupe
    Posts
    793

    I find that factory type pads stop better & smoother than the harder pads(Thats why the factory uses them), which are made to work for harder than normal driving and need more heat to work as good as stock type pads. as with drilled & sloted rotors are for looks, unless you drive them harder, as in road course, or Nascar driving. You won't get them hot enough for their intended use.

    Pat
    HemiTCoupe



    Anyone can cut one up, but! only some can put it back together looking cool!
    Steel is real, anyone can get a glass one.


    Pro Street Full Fendered '27 Ford T Coupe -392 Hemi with Electornic Hilborn injection
    1927 Ford T Tudor Sedan -CPI Vortec 4.3
    '90 S-15 GMC pick up

  8. #8
    HemiTCoupe's Avatar
    HemiTCoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Deer Lodge
    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 T Coupe
    Posts
    793

    True! But the harder the pad material the easier to glaze, and many people drag their brakes.

    Pat
    HemiTCoupe



    Anyone can cut one up, but! only some can put it back together looking cool!
    Steel is real, anyone can get a glass one.


    Pro Street Full Fendered '27 Ford T Coupe -392 Hemi with Electornic Hilborn injection
    1927 Ford T Tudor Sedan -CPI Vortec 4.3
    '90 S-15 GMC pick up

  9. #9
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Olivehurst, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Studebaker Custom w/LS1
    Posts
    1,900

    Thanks everyone. I just canceled the order from the people who were taking so long to deliver the rotors. While I am up at Hot August Nights I will talk to various vendors and maybe go directly to the Summit Racing store up there and pick up a chosen solution. Your advice will help me with that decision. In the mean time ultimate defensive driving and leaving plenty of interval space will get me through. Just hope there is no need for a panic stop!

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  10. #10
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    Quote Originally Posted by Stu Cool View Post
    Thanks everyone. I just canceled the order from the people who were taking so long to deliver the rotors. While I am up at Hot August Nights I will talk to various vendors and maybe go directly to the Summit Racing store up there and pick up a chosen solution. Your advice will help me with that decision. In the mean time ultimate defensive driving and leaving plenty of interval space will get me through. Just hope there is no need for a panic stop!

    Pat
    well sand all your old stuff to get the glaze off and buy some pads .my gto had about the same stuff for brakes as you do as my 50 chevy as well and would stop just fine and i have abit of power .i like to stop .i have the mopar truck master on both cars .your going to have a hard time stoping with glazed stuff .sounds like you need a softer pads .i would keep a way from a full metalic pad the cheep ones have hard spots in them
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  11. #11
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Olivehurst, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Studebaker Custom w/LS1
    Posts
    1,900

    I HAVE BRAKES!! Following advice and suggestions here, I pulled my rotors and took them down to the parts house where they turned them for $25 for the pair. Then, at the counter I got a set of new pads, semi-metallic, but not the hard lifetime warranty ones, just $23. As suggested I got the softer ones. I just got back from "bedding" them as described in this article I found on the Summit Racing site:

    http://www.summitracing.com/expertad...1-6cf3310af986

    They stop the car quite well. So for less than $50, now I have time to figure out what I want to do in the longer term, without worrying about rear ending someone.

    Thanks for the help

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  12. #12
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    it is nice to stop when you want to
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  13. #13
    Flamedchevy's Avatar
    Flamedchevy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    White House
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Chevy Coupe
    Posts
    47

    Great thread!!!! I always choose the semi-metallic (mid grade). You are right the hard pads leave dust and are rough on rotors.
    It's easy..Just ask someone that hasn't ever done it!
    See ya on the road.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink