Thread: need help guys!!!!!!!!!!
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08-09-2009 09:58 PM #16
Do you have a shroud on the radiator? Does the lower radiator hose have an internal spring so it won't collapse?
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08-09-2009 10:07 PM #17
I've had my '35 15 years and it's been hot a few times. I've found you need the ignition timing as high as possible a higway speeds....run the vacuum advance as high as possible without detonation. Also, low timing will cause one to overheat at idle, I run around 12-14 degrees initial, seems the higher it is the cooler it runs. My last battle with overheating turned out to be the water pump. I was running a high flow Edelbrock and one head ran around 40 degrees hotter than the other. I put a stock pump back on and it cools much better.....both heads run the same temp again. I'm calling edelbrock this week to find out if it's defective or what. All my cooling problems over the years have been solved by trial and error. I never would have thought the Edelbrock pump was the problem, but I changed it back to stock as a last ditch effort and it fixed it. Sometimes it gets expensive, like when I bought the 170 dollar edelbrock pump and it made it worse. I wrapped my headers and it helped the ambient heat around the engine a good bit and the fenders are cooler for sure. I know you said the fenderwells are cut out at the rear for the headers, but are the front sections still solid? I louvered mine all the way from the front to rear by cutting notches like this [[[[[[[[ and bending them out like louvers. Worked like a champ and helped a good bit. make sure you have a spring in the lower hose also. try sealing up the gap between the radiator and the grill opening so all the air has to pass through the radiator. Air blowing around the radiator at high speeds can have an effect on cooling. Sure the fan is turning the right direction? Sounds crazy but some people have made that mistake. Also clutter around the engine compartment can offer air no place to escape in an overcrowded engine compartment. Vacuum reserve cans, overflow tanks, ignition coils and other junk mounted to the fenderwells can block airflow around the engine. also, there must be a low pressure area beneath the engine compartment so the high pressure air blowing through the radiator can be pulled down under the car. That's the purpose for the little rubber air dam under the radiator on modern cars. I looked into fabbing one up for my '35 but my front clip hangs low enough below the radiator that it won't help me any. All the air passing through the grille has to pass through the radiator and there has to be a low pressure area under the engine.....that's the only way cars cool at high speeds. If it's not that way, the faster you run the hotter it will get.
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08-09-2009 10:15 PM #18
pat,
wot = 34 degrees. I am running 10 at the crank, & 24, at the distrbitor , no vacuum,(mallory comp 9000). i don't know the cam specs, or pistons, i have to run 93 octane gas in it or it runs on (diesels) when shutting it off.
the engine seems to run good doesn't stumble at wot, or just off idle? i know a retarded engine will run hot. do you think I may not be running enough timing? if so, how much timing at the crank should I try".
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08-09-2009 10:28 PM #19
Last edited by pat mccarthy; 08-09-2009 at 10:36 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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08-09-2009 11:37 PM #20
yes have shroud, the grill is sealed in the front so the air has to go thru the radiator,yes, I did check the damper, it's @ tdc. I figured the engine is close to stock or a mild hop up, maybe I am a little too low on the timing, will set it up to 12 on crank, would 14 be too much at 38 degrees total on a bbc? does anyone know what a bbc in general, likes for total timing? also I am going to pull the thermostat & put a gutted one in .
will try that first thing tommorrow, will then up date, if I get any change! but would like to know what is the best general timing for a bbc & the max for total timing?
thanks for the help guysLast edited by hottrodd57; 08-09-2009 at 11:39 PM.
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08-10-2009 12:04 AM #21
any one know ??? i did tell were to start you ???yep i built many bbc over the years you can put 14 on the crank or till it bucks so i would cool it on the crank no more then 14 and you can take it out of the dist to keep it at 36 bbc or run up till 38 and leave it at 24 in the dist +14 but this is more of try it deal see how it works i set them up for carbs with no power addeds from 36to38 .like i said pull as much as you can as fast as you can you want a fast curve light springs ,you not pulling any thing heavy so thats were i would start any more on the crank it can kick back and bust stuffLast edited by pat mccarthy; 08-10-2009 at 06:43 AM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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08-10-2009 09:54 AM #22
pat, hat was not what I meant!!! I am doing exactly want you stated!!! what I whated to know what in general was the factory timing on early 70's 454? I apreiate your help!
I took the stat out, put a gutted one in, set the timing up to 14 on crank, full av in @ 2750= 36 total timing, . starts great!,going for a drive now 11:49 am est, 90 degrees. (had tried 12 on crank earlier this morning, seemed to help some, but not enough, temp was cooler than what I has driving in on sunday)
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08-10-2009 11:16 AM #23
well no change, after 30 min got to 225 radiator boild over!!! could walker radiator"said it is no way the radiator, it is a engine problem!!!" I could take the radiator out ship it to them for $150 and they would look at it? not to mention the I have to tear the whole car apart to get it out!!!
does it sound like a engine or rad. problem to you guys? I have seen alot of 39 chevy with bbc with hoods, no problems when I have talked to them.
walker did say the the hi-flow water pump are junk!!! so should I pull it? put a stell stock one on? or is it a timing issue? makes
you want to just park it!!!!!!
the boil over, ... not really, add filled the radiator ll the way to the top when I gutted the stat. just blew out the excess water, to the level it always stay at., did try to vapor lockLast edited by hottrodd57; 08-10-2009 at 12:12 PM.
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08-10-2009 03:16 PM #24
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08-10-2009 03:25 PM #25
quote from you....walker did say the the hi-flow water pump are junk!!!I was running a high flow Edelbrock and one head ran around 40 degrees hotter than the other. I put a stock pump back on and it cools much better.....both heads run the same temp again.
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08-10-2009 04:07 PM #26
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08-10-2009 05:00 PM #27
well i have a stewert pump on mine i would say not all are junkLast edited by 35chevy; 08-10-2009 at 05:43 PM.
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08-10-2009 05:05 PM #28
oh you bet i would send it back .but just think if it is moving water faster it would stir stuff up like a plug???? put the low flow stock pump back on plug stops moving ???? just thinking you know???????????Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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08-10-2009 05:42 PM #29
oh you bet i would send it back .but just think if it is moving water faster it would stir stuff up like a plug???? put the low flow stock pump back on plug stops moving ???? just thinking you know???????????Hanging with my Dad.
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08-10-2009 06:53 PM #30
A "skip" = a dumpster.... but he says it's proper english??? Oh.. Okay. Most of us can see the dating site pun, "matching" with an arsonist.. But a "SKIP? How is that a box? It must all be...
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