Thread: Right Carb Choice

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I am trying to figure out which carb would be the best for my application. I have been receiving conflicting stories so would like to get some information. I have been looking at something in the 600-700 CFM Range. My step-dad said when he was younger he always used a Holley Double Pump Double Feed Carb even on his automatics but I have heard this is not a good idea.

What I am looking at is a carb for 347 Stroker engine. 9.5-10.2 Comp Ratio. and not sure on the Intake manifold yet, trying to do more research to see if what I have will work or if I should save up and buy a different one.

Can anyone clear this up for me I like the thought of a double feed, double pump but I am not sure I wanna buy a different tranny if I have to have a manual to do this. Looking at probably 4.11 gears for the rear end.

Thanks guys

If we're talking for street use, my choice for the small block Ford's with an automatic would go to a vacuum secondary. A 347 will run strong on a 600 CFM carb--Edelbrock or Holley--when it's set up and jetted correctly. If I'm taking my small block drag racing, it's dependent on what other components are in the engine, cam, heads, trans, stall speed, etc. it would be either a 600 vacuum secondary on a mild engine, and probably a 650 mechanical secondary on a high output engine... Generally, for me the vacuum secondary has always been the better all around carb with an automatic transmission.....Which is just another reason I usually run 5 speeds with a mechanical secondary carb!!!!!

Gotta go with Dave here - he is spot on. As I'm probably of your dad's age, I can tell you that the Holley double pumpers were a rage in the 60's. If asked, we could never have justified or explained "why", but it was really cool to open your hood and show off that big Holley. We saw a ton of them on boats (Lake Arrowhead, California) - but that's a whole different story as water is a bit different than pavement with a sudden slam to WOT.

Vacuum secondaries are your best bet here unless you want to get into some serious transmission modifications and a higher stall speed on the converter.

My step-dad is 32 and ran that on his 302 stroker in his mustang and also on his 396 Stroker in his 67 firebird, obvioulsy different CFM but he could not remember. I am planning on running a C-6 or C-4 Transmission mostly because I have those sitting in my shop. I am trying to do most of this build with parts I already have. The camshaft is a Hydraulic Flat Tappet cam duration at .050 204int 214exh, advertised duration 270int 280exh, lobe spread 1.2, valve lift .448int .472 exh, cam lift .280int .295 exh
Hydraulic lifters
Have a set of 351w heads not sure of the specs as far as springs, rockers, valves or any of that.

Thanks for any more help or advice.

Unfortunately for me Alaska is not a real big hot-rod state, so selling and finding parts can be somewhat difficult. This is my first build so I am still learning a lot. The only things I am wanting to use that I have laying around are the 351w heads I have, the 302 Block, and then got a cam lifters and rods for free from one of my mechanics, along with both transmissions. I am going to be buying most of the stuff I need such as crank, rods, pistons, carb, and i am hoping the stock intake will work but I am sure it won't so probably an intake just don't know what brand, style, or any of that like I said still learning. Any more tips would be appreciated.

Also why do double pumps not work well with auto's? and how do I know what the stall is on them?

A generally accepted rule of thumb dictates the use of a vacuum-secondaries carb if the converter stalls at less than 3000. At 3000 or higher, a double pumper can be used to advantage.

Bigger is not better-my 383 with a 650 would kick my buddy's 383 with a 750 and my car was heavier-

the cam specs are Hydraulic Flat Tappet cam duration at .050 204int 214exh, advertised duration 270int 280exh, lobe spread 1.2, valve lift .448int .472 exh, cam lift .280int .295 exh. says it is from 1000-6500 RPM, not sure on the accuracy of that though.

What Brands of Manifolds are good for a guy on a budget?

ebay has a few, e.g.:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weian...=p4506.c0.m245

Weiand Action+Plus intake manifolds are designed for use as stock replacements, with improved power and torque characteristics. They're 180 degree, dual plane types, with a carburetor flange that'll accept either stock or aftermarket performance carburetors. Their effective rpm range runs from idle to 6,000 rpm. With their high-flow runner design, and ability to produce increased power with little modification, it's no wonder these manifolds are so popular.

Located in Washington State - shipping would be reasonable.

Current bid is $75

Summit has new manifolds from $139 plus their infamous "handling" fee.

Craigslist in Anchorage has the following:
This combo came off of a 66 Mustang coupe that I had years ago. I am not sure how old they are..... The manifold is an Edelbrock Streetmaster and the Holley carb looks like a 4150 or 4160 series....Ck out the pics and give me a call @ 745-1867. I am asking 150.00 for the combo....thanks for looking.

http://anchorage.craigslist.org/pts/1364917641.html

Check em out - there's bound to be something in your budget.

thanks glennsexton. Now along the same lines anyone have any recommendations as far as intakes go for a ford, weiand edelbrock holley? any better than the other or what should I look for when browsing for an intake manifold?