Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Thermostat on fuel injection motor?
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    TX
    Car Year, Make, Model: hotrod
    Posts
    1,830

    Thermostat on fuel injection motor?

     



    I think I found my answer on the 10 page of google and then 3 pages in off of the link,lol.


    Automotive engineers who get paid to “tear up” engines in the laboratory tell me they can destroy an engine quicker by running it at 160 degrees. This is due to the engine not getting hot enough to evaporate the acids in the crankcase. Your trucks engine requires 195 degree thermostat, nothing cooler! Your trucks electronics are calibrated for the engine to run at this temperature. Besides effecting fuel mileage you are promoting premature transmission failure. Running a too cool thermostat will contribute to “crankcase sludge” in your engine. This will cause your trucks engine to smoke and use oil prematurely. This is why older cars engines of the 1960’s and 70's wore out and smoked by the time they had 100,000 miles. Running the engines too cool with inferior oil by today’s standards. So if you think you have an overheating problem you need to make sure that it is not a head gasket problem. To verify the truck can cool down when it is hot, just take a water hose to the radiator while the truck is running. If the temperature gauge goes down then you have a problem with the fan or radiator. If it still gets hotter and won’t cool down then you have a head gasket (or cracked head) or the wrong water pump (turning backwards) As to the A/C system keeping R-12 as the refrigerant is the smart thing to do in the long run. R-12 may cost more than R-134a. In the long run it will do a better job keeping you cool and you’re a/c system lasting longer.
    Last edited by BigTruckDriver; 10-30-2009 at 11:29 AM.
    Friends dont let friends drive fords!

  2. #2
    HemiTCoupe's Avatar
    HemiTCoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Deer Lodge
    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 T Coupe
    Posts
    793

    A thermostat will only let the engine cool to 160 then close till it's gets up to 160 again, it will not cool your engine down, unless you live where it's cold out. then it will only let it cool down to the temp, If the motor is going to run hot, it's going to run hot. a thermostat only warms your motor up till it reach's that temp, then opens all the way. It still will go as hot as it wants because of other problems. Unless you have a bad thermostat, then it stays closed and over heats. and yes you need to run a 195 in that motor.
    In reality if you remove your theromstat you can run your water pump backwards ( with the right fan) and reverse cool your motor, but then you cool the bottoms of you cyl's 1st, instead of the tops, not as good on the motor.

    Unless you drive your motor real hot for awhile, it's not going to hurt the tranny, they run hotter than the motor normally, and usaully warmed up before the motor is.

    I think spraying water on your radiator to cool it down will only make a mess, you need to find the problem. If it cools when you drive highway, and heat up at stops, then it's a air flow problem, if it heats up driving & stop it a water flow problem.

    Most motors of the 60's & 70's burn oil because the cyl's were worn from lack of oil, carbs are like toilets, they just flush the gas in whether it could use it or not, and washed the cyl's clean of oil and caused them to wear faster. TB & TPI took care of that and the motors last longer. I think Dino oil "was" a good lube, but you need to change more often to keep it clean cause it did beark down quicker. They just took all the zink out and thats what made oil a slippery lube, new oil doesn't lube like it use to, thats why lifters are roller. the only real wear spots are the piston's & lifter bores. Rods & mains float on a thickness of oil pressure, not direct rubbing.

    As for your AC, anyone can get anything working, it's how much do you want to pay?

    Pat
    HemiTCoupe



    Anyone can cut one up, but! only some can put it back together looking cool!
    Steel is real, anyone can get a glass one.


    Pro Street Full Fendered '27 Ford T Coupe -392 Hemi with Electornic Hilborn injection
    1927 Ford T Tudor Sedan -CPI Vortec 4.3
    '90 S-15 GMC pick up

  3. #3
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    TX
    Car Year, Make, Model: hotrod
    Posts
    1,830

    You were right the thermostat was bad. I opened it up and the thermostat was stuck open.
    Friends dont let friends drive fords!

  4. #4
    kitz's Avatar
    kitz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Austin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 Roadster, BBC
    Posts
    962

    Your ECU uses temperature to adjust the TBI fuel-air ratio during warm-up and while operating in closed loop. Without knowing the fuel maps as a function of Temp I would stick with a 185-195 thermostat.

    kitz
    Jon Kitzmiller, MSME, PhD EE, 32 Ford Hiboy Roadster, Cornhusker frame, Heidts IFS/IRS, 3.50 Posi, Lone Star body, Lone Star/Kitz internal frame, ZZ502/550, TH400

  5. #5
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    TX
    Car Year, Make, Model: hotrod
    Posts
    1,830

    Heres is what I found when I opened it up.
    Attached Images
    Friends dont let friends drive fords!

  6. #6
    MRJB1929's Avatar
    MRJB1929 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ham Lake, MN
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 4DR, 29 Ford Coupe, 36 Chev 2dr
    Posts
    165

    Your thermostat stuck open isn't the cause of the truck running hotter. Actually the inverse would be true. With the Thermostat stuck open, the truck would run cooler and/or never get up to proper operating temp.

  7. #7
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    TX
    Car Year, Make, Model: hotrod
    Posts
    1,830

    Quote Originally Posted by MRJB1929 View Post
    Your thermostat stuck open isn't the cause of the truck running hotter. Actually the inverse would be true. With the Thermostat stuck open, the truck would run cooler and/or never get up to proper operating temp.
    You are correct . That statement above was not mine I just copied and pasted because it said I should run a 195 thermo. I thought I had a good working system since it took so long to warm up and found the reason.
    Friends dont let friends drive fords!

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink