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Thread: Replacement Rear axles that Fit 1946 Ford Coupe?
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    KOULAIDE's Avatar
    KOULAIDE is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1946 Ford Coupe Super Deluxe
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    Quote Originally Posted by tudorkeith View Post
    are you going to get the master cylindr and prop valve or do a wilwood style prop valve? I was lucky and scored the master and everything with my rear
    Where are those located on the explorer. They are dropping the axle off this morning. I am using this rear with the flathead for now. can i use the master cylindr and prop valve
    Last edited by KOULAIDE; 12-31-2009 at 10:14 AM.

  2. #17
    tudorkeith's Avatar
    tudorkeith is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 47 ford deluxe
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    I think you can use any m/c and prop valve as long as it is for 4 wheel disks. I'm assuming you have front disks. 275 seems fair, I paid 3 bills for mine but also got the brake su and the e brake stuff. I thought for me that running a complete "stock" braking system would be the easiest way to go. I did have to make all my brake lines cause some of them needed metric and the fronts are american.

  3. #18
    turbo74pinto is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 74 pinto, 41 ford, 34 dodge
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    go adjustable, dont use the explorer set up. keep in mind, the explorer had 4 wheel abs. im pretty sure it was all through the abs and there was no seperate prop valve. as tudorkieth said, you should keep your prop valve correct to your brake set up. ie...4 wheel disc or front disc rear drum...etc. sure the car will stop mix matched, but not well or safely.

    also assuming your running the stock master location, the explorer booster, and most other boosters for that matter, is probably too big to fit under the floor.

    i would not use the stock 46 master. drake and other suppliers have adapters to run a dual chamber master to your factory pedal and bracket. run the proper residual valves and an adjustable prop valve. lol...i found out real quick what happens when a wheel cylinder blows out and you loose all the brake fluid to one wheel. when its a single chamber master, you loose ALL brakes.

    bob

  4. #19
    KOULAIDE's Avatar
    KOULAIDE is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1946 Ford Coupe Super Deluxe
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo74pinto View Post
    go adjustable, dont use the explorer set up. keep in mind, the explorer had 4 wheel abs. im pretty sure it was all through the abs and there was no seperate prop valve. as tudorkieth said, you should keep your prop valve correct to your brake set up. ie...4 wheel disc or front disc rear drum...etc. sure the car will stop mix matched, but not well or safely.

    also assuming your running the stock master location, the explorer booster, and most other boosters for that matter, is probably too big to fit under the floor.

    i would not use the stock 46 master. drake and other suppliers have adapters to run a dual chamber master to your factory pedal and bracket. run the proper residual valves and an adjustable prop valve. lol...i found out real quick what happens when a wheel cylinder blows out and you loose all the brake fluid to one wheel. when its a single chamber master, you loose ALL brakes.

    bob
    I got my rear end today. Any suggestions on thinks that I should do before i think about installing it?

  5. #20
    tudorkeith's Avatar
    tudorkeith is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by KOULAIDE View Post
    I got my rear end today. Any suggestions on thinks that I should do before i think about installing it?
    get all your parts, lines, blocks and adapters. I had to do metric-american ends. then practice them damn flares!!!

  6. #21
    turbo74pinto is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 74 pinto, 41 ford, 34 dodge
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    check your e brake shoes. they are a drum style inside the rotor. make sure they are still bonded well to there steel backings. i, personally, would replace the e brake shoes, pads and rotors. make sure both your calipers are free.

    did you get the sway bar with yours?? i havent started to mock mine up yet but im going to try to get the explorer bar to work on my frame.

    as tudorkeith said, make sure your ducks are in a row for smoooooth sailing!

    bob

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