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12-31-2009 10:09 AM #16
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12-31-2009 12:04 PM #17
I think you can use any m/c and prop valve as long as it is for 4 wheel disks. I'm assuming you have front disks. 275 seems fair, I paid 3 bills for mine but also got the brake su and the e brake stuff. I thought for me that running a complete "stock" braking system would be the easiest way to go. I did have to make all my brake lines cause some of them needed metric and the fronts are american.
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12-31-2009 09:11 PM #18
go adjustable, dont use the explorer set up. keep in mind, the explorer had 4 wheel abs. im pretty sure it was all through the abs and there was no seperate prop valve. as tudorkieth said, you should keep your prop valve correct to your brake set up. ie...4 wheel disc or front disc rear drum...etc. sure the car will stop mix matched, but not well or safely.
also assuming your running the stock master location, the explorer booster, and most other boosters for that matter, is probably too big to fit under the floor.
i would not use the stock 46 master. drake and other suppliers have adapters to run a dual chamber master to your factory pedal and bracket. run the proper residual valves and an adjustable prop valve. lol...i found out real quick what happens when a wheel cylinder blows out and you loose all the brake fluid to one wheel. when its a single chamber master, you loose ALL brakes.
bob
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01-01-2010 07:45 PM #19
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01-01-2010 08:00 PM #20
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01-02-2010 07:26 AM #21
check your e brake shoes. they are a drum style inside the rotor. make sure they are still bonded well to there steel backings. i, personally, would replace the e brake shoes, pads and rotors. make sure both your calipers are free.
did you get the sway bar with yours?? i havent started to mock mine up yet but im going to try to get the explorer bar to work on my frame.
as tudorkeith said, make sure your ducks are in a row for smoooooth sailing!
bob
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