Thread: Figuring out fuel line size?
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12-13-2009 08:08 AM #1
very good idea dave! I hadn't thought of a valve. reminds me I need to come up with something on the other project too.
so you do run a return? does it need to be 1/2 as well or can be smaller line?
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12-13-2009 09:12 AM #2
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12-13-2009 06:45 PM #3
Thannks very much, I appreciate it. I'mholding off any ordering until we get the car tuesday, then going to order like crazy and try to get stuff here before the end of the month. I want to work on it Jan 2,3 before I go back to work.
Red
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12-14-2009 09:52 AM #4
Save your money---about the only thing SAE abot that aluminum tubing that you buy in rolls from those supplies is the degree of the flare you need to use and that pertains to the fitting, not the tube---
now, about the braided or stainless hard line ( supplied in straight lengths(not rolls) you will find all kinds of specs and most supply houses will furnish pages of test data with each batch of tube that you order
The most you might find on the rolled alum tube would probably be like household or building codes on plumbing tubeing
Sorry but that stuff is substandard to be used anywhere in a fuel system
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12-14-2009 11:51 AM #5
Man, this is getting irritating trying to find the right stuff. talked to another friend today that used to race dirt track (the cars with the big wings on top) and he said they ran regular rubber fuel lines, only used braided in certain spots.
I can only find the 1/2 steel one place so far, and they only sell that size in 6ft lengths, that makes it a hassle and would require a coupling, I don't much like that idea.
8an is 7/16" ID. that's real close to 1/2".
anyways, I had a novel idea. call edelbrock, ask them. (actually my friend recommended that, he said they made the carb and they know their stuff, go with what they said.)
In the end it is this:
Mechanical pump, 110gph flow rate
pressure regulator to make sure no more than 6psi at the carb, 5-6 is max recommended
8an braided from hard line to pump, hard line to fuel cell etc.
They said no need to run return with a mechanical pump
Also said aluminum was fine and they prefer to steel because easier with fitting etc., they DON'T recommend braided for along the frame because it hardens and will need replacing.
Also he said 3/8 was plenty until about 600hp, and return, if I did an electric, would only need to be 5/16.
I appreciate all the advice guys, you can see with so many different opinions and takes on it I had to make a decision. I know those who disagreed will be miffed, I'll buy you a beer if you're ever around.
Red
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12-14-2009 12:09 PM #6
Dago
When I said 1/2 I was referring to 1/2 od which is AN-8 and yes it will be near 7/16 with .035 wall or even nearer to 3/8 with a thicker wall
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12-14-2009 12:24 PM #7
More fodder ..................
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=234060
KitzJon Kitzmiller, MSME, PhD EE, 32 Ford Hiboy Roadster, Cornhusker frame, Heidts IFS/IRS, 3.50 Posi, Lone Star body, Lone Star/Kitz internal frame, ZZ502/550, TH400
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12-14-2009 01:00 PM #8
One of the many reasons why I spend so little time on the HAMB - idiots that proclaim copper is the way to go - not!!! But the HAMB is the grist for other threads.
Dago - steel or SS is the safest way to go - but either will be a bear to bend, with SS being much more difficult yet. Of course there is always the braided stuff.......but some folks have concerns about safety there as well. I don'tDave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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12-14-2009 02:08 PM #9
Man, the whole time I was looking for 1/2ID, I know that they have 3/8id in rolls. not much more money than aluminum. Okay, let me finish my parts list and I'll post it to show you all how I'm going.
you think double filters are really necessary? I don't run them on the 429, but that doesn't mean I shouldn't, just that we thought one was sufficient when we replumbed the fuel system.
One other thing, if edelbrock said 3/8 is what I should run, and I run 3/8 hard line, do I use 6an on either end of that or 8an? was planning 8an, but looks like most fittings for 3/8 npt to an are for 6an. if I use adapters I still have restrictions in the system anyways.
Thanks guys. I feel like I've almost got this all figured out.
I lied
2nd other thing, just occured to me. my holley has a fuel log that I have the pressure gauge on, but the edelbrock is a single inlet carb, where should I put the pressure gauge? graciasLast edited by Dago Red; 12-14-2009 at 02:18 PM.
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12-15-2009 10:21 PM #10
All right guys, picked it up today, it's rougher than we thought from the pics, at least looks rougher. so not going to be two days to running like we though, plus the friend who's place my uncle uses decided today to become an asshole. so now rearranging hotrods, shop stuff etc.
anyways, STovens, this is same model carb you have. not sure if we'll stick with it in the end, but for now going to get the car running with this one on it. we'll see later.
buflowd, I agree, looks great. what are those fittings you used on the pipe? they don't look like regular inverted flare fittings. look like some high dollar an fittings (all an fittings I think are high dollar, bastards).
tomorrow I'll post some pics I took today with my camera phone and give a broad stroke picture on the project, show you guys what I have to deal with. Still a good deal I think (Hell, centerlines and m/t all the way around is a couple k, and how much is a currie 9" with gears, 4 link and disc brakes?)
I appreciate the help guys. We did decide today, driving to get the car, to go hard lines to the carb from the fuel pump. my uncle's friend who is a mechanic was with us and said that's how he does it and has a real nice bender for 3/8" tube so....
Red
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12-16-2009 12:48 AM #11
Do you guys get this tool over there as its what i use to bend 3/8" tube, aluminium bends easily by hand but if i'm doing stainless i put 1 of the handles in the vice. you can also use an old alternator pulley.
Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.
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12-16-2009 01:17 PM #12
Red
They are 37 degree AN fittings, tube and sleeve. I used the same type of bender that Roadster shows. ---- Bob
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12-16-2009 01:27 PM #13
Red
Here is a link to some information on "tube line fabrication" it has some interesting information-----Bob
http://home1.gte.net/wgmumaw/Tube%20...inglepgset.pdf
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12-16-2009 02:15 PM #14
Thanks a lot! very appreciated. I posted more pics of the car in a new thread.
We managed to get a couple of other small things taken care of. One was blacking out the front of the core support. When the sun hit the front of the car just right that green paint on the core...
1968 Plymouth Valiant 1st Gen HEMI