Thread: cracked block 53 merc flathead

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I have a 53 merc flathead thats been sitting in my garage for 30 years that I used to run in 34 ford. I had it bored .040 over with a 3/4 cam and two 97 strombergs. I went to start it one winter day and it wouldn't turn over. After checking for a bad starter or solenoid, etc. I pulled a plug and found water sitting on top of the piston. Water had worked its way around waterjackets> Cracked Block! I would like to use this again but don't know if block can be repaired. Any suggestions wa now if the block can be repaired. Any thoughts

Exactly how and where is it cracked? Can it be repaired by simply having that cylinder sleeved?

It's cracked in two places number one and two cylinder walls. The crack is to bad to weld and I don't think a sleeve would work.

Throw it away. I know were there is a 49, 60 hp flatty that has never been rebuilt and still runs great! Its on one of those old portable Lincoln welders. You can probably score it for $400.E-mail me and we can talk or contact me on ICQ.

BroBros Ya your right. I just hate to throw away something I had put alot of money into back when I was 16. I have a friend that has a built 52 that he is willing to sell me for a good price and since I'm about to start on a 40 ford pickup I might just go with this engine. Nothing better sounding than a flathead with cherry bombs

I may buy a 47 Chevy 2 dr slantback that has a flathead V8 ( I belive ), The interior is near- mint original and there is no through body rust, it's just surface rust. Is green plaid with leather trim origional or is that a mid 60's recover? I would also say keep ur flathead cause there is nuttin better than em for nostalgia.

You can weld it, and there are other methods to fix it that don't involve welding. www.locknstitch.com This site sells a product to repair cracks without welding, but they also detail how to weld cast iron without cracking it.

Thanks for the info

I've repaired a flathead with a bad crack in the cylinder wall. It's easy if you have the machinery. You bore the block out another .100 oversize and press in the sleeve. Then bore out the sleeve to the original (.040 over) bore size.
I think we charged around $300 for one sleeve and the customer did the tear down and reassembly himself. It might be cheaper to find another block to use your parts on.

Broebros.
Ford didn't make the 60 hp motor in 49. They were made from 1936 to 1940. They are much smaller than the 125 hp Merc engine. They weren't very powerful in a full sized car but were very popular for midget racers and as a powerplant for things like that welder. It was probably rebuilt before it was put into the welder.
It's a good deal for $400 but it requires a transmission that is unique to the small engine and won't bolt up to any other one.
The midget racers used an "in and out box". A one speed transmission. The output shaft turned at the same rpm as the input. If the welder has one of these you could make some money on ebay.
Even without a tranny it could be valuable to someone who has or is restoring a midget.
AL

Al That sounds like a practical way of fixing it. You know the problems all flatheads had with cooling and was wondering how this would affect the water flow thru the block

Thanks street I'm going to give it a shot myself. Welded the crack yesterday. Will sleeve it today if I can keep warm enough!

My bad, maybe it's a 39. All I know is it's and oldie butta goodie. Thank you for clearing that up sir.