Thread: Amp gauge and valve cover breathers .

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A couple of questions.

I want to replace the amp gauge in my T-Bucket with a volt gauge. Do i just remove the old wiring going to the amp gauge or do i need to do any rewiring so the alternator will charge?

Will just a pcv valve be enough to to allow an engine to breathe or does it also need a valve cover breather?

PCV should be plenty


Not sure on the meter.......

Not knowing what sort of wiring you have I'll make the answer general. You can remove the amp gauge and splice the two wires together as the gauge is in series with the charging system. The volt meter on the other hand is a tap of of the primary buss feed. The positive wire to the right post as you are looking at the back of the gauge and the left post to ground.

Power flows "through" an amp gauge and "to" a volt meter. Well, not really, but it makes it easier to figure the wiring. You can put both wires that now go to the two posts on your amp to the "+" post on the volt meter. That will retain the circuit so everything works. Some volt meters are internally grounded and have one post, if there are two, ground the "-" one, and you are in business.

Oh, and yes, you should have a breather somewhere to let the fresh air into the engine to carry away all the nasties that build up in there.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

Not knowing what sort of wiring you have I'll make the answer general. You can remove the amp gauge and splice the two wires together as the gauge is in series with the charging system. The volt meter on the other hand is a tap of of the primary buss feed. The positive wire to the right post as you are looking at the back of the gauge and the left post to ground.

I agree with this answer. I don't like ammeters, too much current passing through the wires connected to them that can cause serious heat if they short out. There is a reason the majority of newer cars have voltmeters, much safer and better info.

Here is a good explanation and drawing:

http://www.houlihane.co.uk/amps.htm

And another one....

http://www.autometer.com/download_instruction/642d.pdf


Don

Originally Posted by R Pope

Power flows "through" an amp gauge and "to" a volt meter. Well, not really, but it makes it easier to figure the wiring. You can put both wires that now go to the two posts on your amp to the "+" post on the volt meter. That will retain the circuit so everything works. Some volt meters are internally grounded and have one post, if there are two, ground the "-" one, and you are in business.

Most amp gauges I've worked with were wired with 12 gauge wire and either terminal on a volt gauge does not have sufficient length to attach 3 wires especially if two of them are 12 gauge. IMHO there are three ways to solve the problem. 1. take the two wires from the amp gauge and bolt them together and tape the connection. 2. Cut the terminals off and solder the two wires together with heat shrink over the connection. 3. Eliminate the wires totally from under the dash using a diagram from a later vehicle that uses a volt gauge instead of an amp gauge.

There won't be three wires, just the two that used to go to either side of the amp gauge. You can bolt them together and run another wire to the voltmeter if that's easier.

Thanks guys. Looks like the volt gauge will be simple. I'm still not sure if the pcv valve will be good enough. I really don't want to run breathers on the valve covers if i don't have to.

The PCV will need a fresh air source somewhere on the engine.........preferrably the valve cover that does not have the PCV in it.

I have my fresh air source on the oil fill tube in the intake...not a ideal spot ,but better than nothing.

Originally Posted by shawnlee28

I have my fresh air source on the oil fill tube in the intake...

I prefer the old school look of the oil filler tube and as soon as i find an Edelbrock C3B-X or C4B intake manifold i'll swap out the Weiand i have on it now.