Thread: Structure help for car loosing its top

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I am removing the top of a car I just saved from a horrible death. It just isn't worth trying to save. its a '68 chevy 4 door post.

I would like some advice on welding the doors shut for structural support when the top leave. I was also thinking of taking the inner door metal off and adding support inside the door. I will not have windows on it any more. I was thinking of leaving just the vents but don't know what I am going to do about the front windscreen yet - channels are shot.

Any ideas would be great.

I have question like:
Should I leave the door latches and just weld the door to the post?
Should I bolt into the post first?
Should I keep the hinges?
Is there a street leagal windscreen I can add that does not need a top on it, that works?

Thanks for the help

What model Chevy? If it's a Impala, Caprice or Chevelle, it has a full frame under it and may not need all the attention you're thinking. You'll have to check with the State about a windscreen. I might try to get away with a curved piece of clear Lexan if they would let me rig up a hand-operated wiper that could be removed in good weather.

Thanks for the idea. It is an Impala want-to-be biscayne. I originally thought that it would look good as a mock police cruiser with a single blue spinner on top but when I got into it it is just bad.
As for the front windscreen my understanding is here in CA they don't allow lexan. Had a friend try it on his T bucket. I was thinking of just gluing an original cut in and capping it somehow.

I may be wrong, but I believe the Federal DOT mandates that windshields are laminated safety glass.
I understand your rust problem. I had a 68 Impala convert. In 1970 I replaced the front floors. When I junked it in 1974 the rust was so bad that the dash board had rusted away from the cowl frame.
If your windshield is still good, leave about 2-3" of roof along the top of the windshield and box it in and you should have all the support you will need.
Assuming you are only going to weld the rear doors shut, if you add support to the B pillars at the floor you shouldn't need to add support on the doors. Use a filler piece in the door gaps when you weld. Leave the hinges in they will give you good alignment and will keep them in place when welding.

Originally Posted by chopper1

I may be wrong, but I believe the Federal DOT mandates that windshields are laminated safety glass.
I understand your rust problem. I had a 68 Impala convert. In 1970 I replaced the front floors. When I junked it in 1974 the rust was so bad that the dash board had rusted away from the cowl frame.
If your windshield is still good, leave about 2-3" of roof along the top of the windshield and box it in and you should have all the support you will need.
Assuming you are only going to weld the rear doors shut, if you add support to the B pillars at the floor you shouldn't need to add support on the doors. Use a filler piece in the door gaps when you weld. Leave the hinges in they will give you good alignment and will keep them in place when welding.

START with the FRAME!!! a roof doesn't hold the lower part of the body up, the body holds the roof up, and they had some standard that the roof would hold the car up in a roll over (with some crush factor in it). I think with a stout enough frame you can keep the doors functional and everything. I know i could figure out a way...