Thread: Question for the paint pros!!!

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I forgot to ask you something HOTRODPAINT.
I am Planning on using base coat clear coat.
If I use the innercoat and tape it off then when
I pull the tape off if there is anything there from
the tape,what do I use to clean it off.
I other words no degreaser type wipe down chem
Right? Also what type of degreaser wipe down do you
reccomend for wipe down before painting starts?
Basically I need to read a good book that explanes
some stuff to me.
I am gonna be using dura - glass filler for dings
then a good primmer scratchfiller/sealer.
Now this I don't know what kind of paint is base coat
clear coat, a urethane? And when you buy a base coat
clear coat do they come with a reducer or a hardner
and are those the same thing? Now I hear of guys
sanding the clear coats down should I do this for a
nicer look? Is there a book that can explane these
things to me. and what exactly to use for the best
looking job. I don't want a cheap clear that's going
to peel after a year. Thanks for the help. Kurt

You do NOT want to clean a water based paint with Lacquer thinner it will turn it to jello !!!! ( and have a bigger mess down the road )
If you dont have the proper water cleaning solvent to clean with you can use an aerosol window cleaner in a bind , or use warm water from the tap , plus make sure everything is stainless steel as water borne will pit the crap out of aluminum !
I recommend tearing it down after every use as water based paints seem to cling to the needle & fluid nozzle more then solvent based paints .
I have been spraying Aquabase Plus for a year now and my dedicated Iwata base gun looks like its 5 years old and is only 1 year old and my 4 Iwata solvent clear & sealer guns that are 4-5 years old look new !!

Water borne seems to be a bit more caustic IMO as the Air caps on these guns are aluminum and the inside water borne air cap is very pitted and it gets tore down after every spray and is used 3-6 times a day !!

So for what its worth

SprayTech

(QUOTE) Also what type of degreaser wipe down do you
reccomend for wipe down before painting starts?
Basically I need to read a good book that explanes
some stuff to me.
I am gonna be using dura - glass filler for dings
then a good primmer scratchfiller/sealer.
Now this I don't know what kind of paint is base coat
clear coat, a urethane? And when you buy a base coat
clear coat do they come with a reducer or a hardner
and are those the same thing? Now I hear of guys
sanding the clear coats down should I do this for a
nicer look? Is there a book that can explane these
things to me. and what exactly to use for the best
looking job. I don't want a cheap clear that's going
to peel after a year. Thanks for the help. Kurt[/QUOTE]

I just use a general purpose wax and grease remover before paint, and it can also be used on 2-part primer. Once you start into color coats, as Spraytech said, an alcohol base is the way to go. I use a towel wipe that comes prepackaged, so you just pull one out and go to work.

Basecoat / clearcoat is urethane.

There are two or three theories about when to sand. After the primer is blocked out, I personally only sand if there is a problem. Otherwise I save it all for the final cut and buff stage.

Some guys will sand between colors, or interim clearcoats, then topcoat, sand, recoat, sand, then finally buff and polish.

Reducers and hardeners are not the same, and are usually purchased seperately. Some paint systems will give you different choices of each, to adjust for shop temperatures. The hardeners usually come from the same paint company, but there are also reducers made to work in most paint systems on the market, and don't necessarily have to come from the same company as the paint.

The adhesion of the clear doesn't change with price. Adhesion comes from using the right techniques, adjusting those for your situation, and timing between coats. What will happen with a cheap clear is that in a few months, to a couple years, the gloss will die.