Thread: Glass Body Wiring

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On a glass body the normal hidden places along the rockers in a metal body is smooth floor transitioning directly into the body sides. With the fuse block mounted drivers side front, high kick panel area on the end of the dash bracing, what is a good way to route and protect the wiring going to the back, inside the body? This will be tail & brake lights, speaker wires to the seat mounted speakers, trunk light (future), interior lights (future), power window circuits and I'm about done.

Also, for the window circuits, what's a good way to deal with body to door wiring? I've seen a braided sheath with metal grommets that slides with the open/close action of the door but not sure that's the way to go, or really necessary at $80?

rspears

I used a Ron Francis product called "GREY STUFF" part number GS-10 to run the wires through the passenger compartment. It runs under the carpet with the carpet padding on either side of it.

For the wiring into the doors, I used 3/8 steel line which I bent to conform to the bottom door hinge and then flared the ends so as not to cut the wire. I then tack welded the line to the door hinge (it's very easy to burn through the steel line), drilled a hole in the door down by the hinge and then ran the wires from inside the door through the steel line. What is not going to be covered by the door panel will be very hard to see since it is down so low on the back of the door. Hope this gives you some ideas.

Roger - there are plastic versions of those looms as well plus these door jamb contacts http://www.yearwood.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd346.htm

Usually you can run your wiring, assuming you don't have a hidden channel fanned out along the floor, with the middle of the floorboard being the best since you wont be walking/stomping there. If you have a console, that too will protect the wires. The upholsterer will get really upset if he has to try to hide a big bundle of wires in his carpeting project. I have mine running mostly under the carpet and fanned, with others along each rocker. None are in the foot space. Since my AAW module is behind the passenger seat, it became a real study in frustration to make the wiring neat and protected. If I recall, I had 27 individual wires before the speakers and the cruise control were installed. These added another 7 or 8. My original plan was to run it in a conduit to the console - that lasted until the wire bundle got too big and the console was shelved to a later date. Of course, there are a bunch more for the speedometer, tranny temp gauge, several grounds and the starter under the car.

You never realize how many wires there really are to electrify a home built car until you do it - and this wasn't even my first

Roger, this goes along with Deuce Don's suggestion, maybe you can get a few ideas from it.

Mike

Thanks for the replies, guys.
IC2, on the door jamb contacts I have heard bad feedback about their reliability and have seen some abandoned in place with wires added so I'm not sure I trust using them. I've seen the plastic bellows type and they look like a good possibility for the door. Your approach to fanning out wires is probably where I am, maybe between a couple of layers of insulation.

Mike, that hinge mod is sweet - lots of work, but really a trick idea.

Don, your suggestion of a tube following the hinge line is a great idea, too. I will also check out Grey Stuff this morning.

Roger, my intention wasn't for you to try to duplicate the hinge mod, but rather for ideas on how to get the wiring into the door. I thought I had a link saved showing how to run a tube along the hinge like DD suggested, but the link I posted was all I could find in my 'library'.

Mike