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Thread: 9 inch lube drip from nut
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Weasel Diesel is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    9 inch lube drip from nut

     



    I have a Ford 9 inch, from the 9 inch factory ( John's Industries ). I put the 3rd member in it and using new nuts and the special washers supplied, torqued all to 45 ft lbs per the instruction sheet.. I have 1 nut that likes to drip fluid. Now, I looked up a rear for a 78 ford pickup ( another 9 inch ) and torque specs on it was 40-70 ft lbs. So is it not tight enough , and thats the cause? Being it looked to me like the washers are a 1 time use product, I didn't try tighter. Opinions please...

  2. #2
    IC2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Weasel Diesel View Post
    I have a Ford 9 inch, from the 9 inch factory ( John's Industries ). I put the 3rd member in it and using new nuts and the special washers supplied, torqued all to 45 ft lbs per the instruction sheet.. I have 1 nut that likes to drip fluid. Now, I looked up a rear for a 78 ford pickup ( another 9 inch ) and torque specs on it was 40-70 ft lbs. So is it not tight enough , and thats the cause? Being it looked to me like the washers are a 1 time use product, I didn't try tighter. Opinions please...
    Well - you can do like I did - back the nuts off one at a time, clean everything up real well then use a bit of silicone, Permatex or whatever. I uses the red Permatex silicon gasket maker and it has stopped dripping. The Permatex wont get into anything but will seal those pesky threads. My recollection - Ford used a sealer as well plus those crush washers - which, in my case didn't very well - and they came from Curries
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  3. #3
    John Palmer is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    [QUOTE=IC2;386694

    those crush washers - which, in my case didn't very well - and they came from Curries[/QUOTE]


    Yup, The washers from Currie are very HARD. Mine leaked also and I had to go back and use some sealer as stated above.

    The original FORD washers were SOFT, and they worked well but were hard to get off after they deformed around the threads. We never needed any sealer on the threads back in the day, the seal washers were probably made of LEAD, LOL.

  4. #4
    Weasel Diesel is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    These washers looked like brass. Plus, the diameter (O.D.) wasn't much more than the hole it was going around. I'll get some new wider ones and do the silicone trick you guys suggested....Still though, do I stay with the 45 ft lb that John's says? Thanks
    Last edited by Weasel Diesel; 05-20-2010 at 04:57 PM.

  5. #5
    IC2
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    I believe the originals are aluminum while the Currie version are brass - and quite hard. They don't seem to deform much at all. If you have ever pulled an original Ford differential out of the housing, the washers usually have to be pried loose and sometimes even have to be unscrewed. I just looked at mine - and there is one @#$% drip on one stud but nothing on the floor.
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  6. #6
    Weasel Diesel is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I just looked at mine - and there is one @#$% drip on one stud but nothing on the floor.
    I know, don't it just peeve ya off when dink stuff happens ? Thats the way I am right now. It's one of those "Mad enough to cuss, but not mad enought to throw crap" situations.

  7. #7
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    When I re-did my Mustang 9", those washers were copper. You can still get some from Mustangs Unlimited or similar vendor. Out of habit I applied a bit of silicone sealant to the stud "just because"....

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