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Thread: Need diagnostic help on SEVERE steering wheel shake
          
   
   

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  1. #61
    1gary is offline Banned Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1985 high top Astro van
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    Now that you found the brakes where hanging up and over heating the rotors,I suggest the vib is coming from some very badly warp rotors.
    Good Bye

  2. #62
    Phat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Just a tip on the rubber brake lines. DOT makes em put a date on them. Even when i buy them at the parts store i check the date some are over 10 years old new...i wont buy em.

  3. #63
    Phat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Also i just think your finding things other than you problem. One of your first posts tells me something i am always fixing.You put shorter tires on and it got worse...not a brake,balance,tire or any of those. Back to frontend alignment. The alignment guys cant get enough caster in it. It needs 6 degrees and really dont care what the stang II specs are. I have fixed maybe 30- 40 stang II because of this problem.
    The reason the it gets worse with smaller tires you ask? Puts more rake in the chassis and takes more caster out.
    I will bet it pretty touchy steering also...another sure sign caster is wrong.
    Check it yourself with angle finder on the spindle.
    Largeman mustang II stuff is one of the worst offenders on this problem....cut a lot of them out after guys have spent large sums of cash on everything else

  4. #64
    Bug
    Bug is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Any updates yet????

    Bug
    Bug
    "I may be paranoid but that doesn’t mean they are not watching me"

  5. #65
    btsave's Avatar
    btsave is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Chopped Custom Tudor
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bug View Post
    Any updates yet????

    Bug
    Decided to focus on the brake issue, looked at the piston in the booster, which was cantered, so have torn out the entire braking system, rewelding the frame to support a new bracket to hold the booster/MC combo in a straight line and will replumb with new proportioning valves etc. since I'll have most of the main system out. I have new brake lines & houses, a new vacuum pump assembly and new rotors on my workbench to be put in over the weekend or so.

    I believe the issue was to the most degree related to an improper install of the new booster system which, based upon bluing on the front right side rotor, must have been causing an intermittent seizure of the brakes up front (tighten/loosen/tighten). Not certain if the booster refused to release vacuum or whether the brake hoses refused to release fluid when my pressure was removed.

    It's interesting that I wasn't really able to get to this point until the brakes completely seized after a buddy of mine adjusted the booster piston in the incorrect position, which seized the brakes completely once I depressed the brake peddle!

    Once I attack the braking system, I'll have to see where we are.

    I have scheduled an appointment at an "old time" front end shop to have them adjust the alignment manually... but I need to resolve the seized up front brakes first.

    More next week!
    Last edited by btsave; 06-23-2010 at 06:07 AM.

  6. #66
    Dq383500's Avatar
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    all I can add to this is on my model A being so short with a great rake, Caster did it for me, as well as a little toe in, as of now I can't give an exact caster or toe in specs, as although it was done on a newer 4 wheel machine it was far beyond anything it could read. and was done old school and now can drive at speed, and I mean thru rain puddles etc. hope all works out well for you. p.s. from the beginning the people in the know on this site sent me in the right direction. and caster and toe was the main. so thanks all. oh yea another thing if the calipers where hung by the hoses or just twisted the wrong way, well guess what the pistons will not retract and will for a simpler explanation stick/stuck. please ask me how I know this. Ouch....so in my view you have a double problem, which can only be cured by fixing the braking issues, and then the correct as your chassis requires alignment. look don't take my word on this as I am just learning, just makes scene to me. Brian Phat after rereading I think I am on the same page as you, I would love to be able to put another 2 degrees caster, but as you say I would have to cut it out, maybe I can just bend it LOL
    Last edited by Dq383500; 06-26-2010 at 11:38 PM. Reason: spelling scence?

  7. #67
    btsave's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Problem solved!

     



    Thank you all for the suggestions!

    ended up being BRAKES! there were multiple issues, from crimps in the brake lines to missing residual values, which added up to the front disc brakes locking up on one side or the other, then releasing and locking up again!

    resolve the issue by a complete rebuild of the braking system. replaced everything other than the rear drums and dual master cylinder/booster. added a vacuum pump (in prep for additional engine work). Car not only runs straight now, but even stops!

    Once again, thanks for the help!

    Next project will be probably adding a dual 4 brl Edel as well as doing the steering links ~ seems to catch a little now that I added 11" granada discs up from.... need to add a double joint as well as a brace to the chassis to support the run (both missing as of now).


    See you all at the Turkey Run!

    Bart
    Last edited by btsave; 08-06-2010 at 11:27 AM.

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