Thread: RMI-25 Coolant Additive

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Hey guys I was wondering if anyone has used this coolant additive and had any success.I am going to flush out my radiator and have been using Pro Blends 40 Below previously but was maybe interested in trying something differant.Was wondering if anybody has had great results with any of these products or any others.Thanks Roger

Any and all the additives on the market are surface tension lowering additives. That means that they make the water slippery, so it flows faster through the system. Any of them should work but I suggest reading the directions as some need to be mixed to a certain percentage of water/antifreeze.

Hey thanks guys for that info,evolvo have you used that Evans product it states some pretty incredible stuff and would like to hear from anyone that has used it in a hotrod or similar vehicle.From what it states would be interested to know what sort of differance you would see in temps.

Evans requires a 235 (are they available)thermostat,that scares me. You have to purge the water from your radiator with an additive before adding the Evans Solution. Boiling point is incredible + they offer different types ref. R type. I would spend the bucks if it solved the heat problem.

I would really like some info. from someone that has used the Evans System. My car runs a bit hot in this Texas temp. and gurgles and pukes ( 5 to 10 secs.)then fills the catch tank then (small amount) on to the ground. I have to monitor the level after each trip around town.

I recently installed a 180 thermostat and it gurgled even less but still heats up to 210 after a trip out. I was not running a thermostat earlier and someone on the Forum suggested that a thermostat would make a car run (don't remember the individual) cooler,because the coolant is rotating thru the system so fast it does not have time to cool. Made sense so I tried it and it appeared to help.

I work for Evans and do the tech and answer many questions. We have different coolants for different applications. When some calls, I pick their brain on what they are putting it in. Alot depends on the radiator they are using.
Our coolant has a viscosity to it. The NPG+ is that of a 10wt oil , about the same as 3 in 1 oil. It works well in aluminum radiators because they have wider tubes than a copper/brass. Most copper brass tubes are 3/8" wide and since our coolant is based on volume and flow, with the smaller tubes the motor may run warmer due to lack of flow capability.
The NPG-R is the thinnest in viscosity and is about the same as straight antifreeze out of the jug. It works well in copper brass or aluminum.
Our coolant does not allow the steam vapors to occur in a motor. What they are .....when a motor builds heat and the internal metal temps climb, they turn a 50/50 mix to pockets of steam. The steam cannot recondense fast enough back to a liquid to absorb heat and take it to the radiator to cool it.
Since ours has a boilng point of 375 degF, ours stay a liquid all the time and remove heat from internal metal. Now with that said....you have to realize that most sending units for the temp gauge is on the front of the manifold right near the top hose outlet, so withn the coolant containing more heat it will be picked up by the sending unit and you may see a higher temp on the gauge. BUT!!! internally the metal is much cooler.
To prove this I did have a customer call me from Calif. I told him all about what our coolant does and do not expect to see lower temps. He had a 1100 hp blown/inj Arias motor in a 32 roadster. His temp gauge reads 225-230 with a copper brass radiator. So I told him to put in the NPG-R.
he called me back 2 wks later and said that what I explained to him, he just proved. He had the car out on a 90deg day. The temp gauge read 230 and he had no problem know what I told him and how the internal metal temps where much cooler than the gauge read. He took the car home and with a digital temp gun , motor running , gauge reading 230, he went over parts of the heads and block and got readings of 180-195. So he proved my point and was very satisfied.
if anyone is interested in using our coolant ,I would be happy to talk to anyone and answer any questions. .

Sunsetdart what would be the average cost for a normal coolant system,I see that you also should only have 3% water in the system when changing over.I am fortunate that I don't have a lot of coolant issues but am interested to know how it is possible to read the actual internal temp when you are running the Evans if the thermostat is not recording what is actually happening.Thanks

The thermostat does regulate the temp in the motor. It remains closed to allow the motor to build heat and once it reaches the set temp of the t-stat it will open. So a 160 t-stat will open at motor temp of 160, but all t-stats are not full open till they reach 15 deg above set temp. A 160 is not full open till it hits 175, 180 at 195 and so on. The t-stat is also meant to help the motor make heat to get oil up to operating temp.
The temps of the outside of the block and heads can be read with a good digital laser gun. Thats how the temps were measured on the motor. If outside metal temps are cooler than what the gauge is reading, it's a given the internal temps must be cooler as well.
Cost at retail now is $39.95 a gal. Our dealers sell it for less then retail around $32.50. Most V-8 small block motors whether they are Chev,Ford, Mopar take 4 and part of a 5th gal to fill. Big blocks V-8 take 5 and part of a 6th.
All gas burning cars should be no less than 5% water after the change, diesels are 3%.