Thread: Big question(s), techinspector1 plz look.

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My project plan here in the hopefully near future is to buy a 1967 Mustang Fastback and swap out various parts. After reading all day I thought I’d make an attempt at figuring out exactly what I want it to consist of so I can come up with a total and/or get you’ll to suggest better or less expensive parts. Since I really only know the what I would call “major” running parts that a car consists of I’ll make a probably far cry for a list.

Body: 67’ Mustang Fastback

Engine: Still on the chalk board with this one, perhaps a 351 Windsor or a 428 (perhaps 460) Interceptor.

Transmission: (still looking price wise) Tremec TKO Heavy-Duty 5-speed Transmission with steel bell-housing and hydraulic clutch system

Rear end: Aluminum quick change rear end and perhaps 389 Detroit silent true locker, rear adjustable sway bar, and Koni shocks.

Brakes: 4-Wheel Ford racing power-disc brake set-up with adjustable proportioning valve.

Roush Racing 2 ½ inch exhaust system with X-pipe, Hooker super competition ceramic coated headers

NOS nitrous oxide 150 Horsepower shot system with correct "Go Baby Go" shifter knob, floor mount arming system

MSD racing ignition system with racing trunk mounted battery

GT40 wheels with Goodyear P245/45/2R17

Some type of turbo/super charger.

What else do I need? What would the overall cost be possibly? How much work/time involved? What should I change?

Various questions,

1. Where can I find the price of a 402R Roush as I’ve searched for awhile and can’t find anything as far as the price in concerned.

2. When “cubic inch” is discussed what exactly is being spoken about? I would guess it’s the cubic inches of the cylinders or what?

3. I was told that the older mustangs were made like the pintos as far as the gas tank (big explosion deal) was concerned. Is this true? If so what should be done so I don’t kill myself when some asshole rear ends me?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Doubt if a TKO would handle the torque put out by a well built big block, if you go with a big block, better plan on using either a Top Loader 4 speed or a Doug Nash (now Richmond) 5 speed.

Quick changes are made for dirt tracking, they are very noisy on the street because of the straight cut spur gears and if you hook them up good with good working rear suspension and slicks the pinion bearing boss on the housing tends to break. Forget the quick change and use a Ford 9" rear end with a Detroit Locker.

Both nitrous and a supercharger are overkill, there comes a point where it's too much horsepower to hook up on the street.

A 67 Mustang is a uni-body car, it is going to take a 10 point cage, frame ties, and very good working suspension to make it work.

Cost??? With the parts you mentioned, and if you are able to do all the fabrication and build work yourself, at least $15,000. If you have to have it built at a reputable shop, it is going to be in the $30,000 to $50,000 range.

Vince, will this car be driven on the street?
Yes. I want it to haul ass though.

Will it have to be pump-gas friendly?
As in do I need it to get good gas mileage? Nah not really as long as I can get better than 5 or so lol.

Are you prepared to install an 8-point, 10-point, 12-point or 14-point roll cage?
If need be.

Are you prepared to butcher the car by installing tubs?
To take a bath or what? I dunno what a tub is.

Why do you think you need a quick-change?
Well from what I read I can change the gear ratio and pull fast quarter miles with a lower ratio and then change it for open road.

How fast do you want to go?
Well, I want badass acceleration from like 0-60, 0-100… I don’t really plan on going over 120 because I think 75 is the fastest you can go in Florida but just because that’s as fast as I can go I don’t want to limit my cars capabilities. But I guess to answer your question I just wanna haul ass.

How much money do you have to spend?
Currently? Well if I figure in taxes and everything about… 3 dollars and 45 cents. But I plan on getting about 10,000 within about 6 months.

Will you expect the car to handle in turns or just go like stink on the straightaway with no regard for transient handling?
I don’t plan on running a drag show or anything, but I do want good handling for sure, and yes I plan on making a few turns.

Are you seeking top speed or quarter-mile acceleration or both?
More acceleration than anything like I said I want a fast 0-60, 0-100. But I would also like to pull maybe 11’s aswell and the top speed would just come with the territory I’d guess.

If you plan to drag the car, what speed and e.t. are you looking for?
I don’t plan on drag. Maybe the average red light to red light tap on the hood race but that’s about it.





Both nitrous and a supercharger are overkill, there comes a point where it's too much horsepower to hook up on the street.

Probably so, but they add to the “coolness” effect. And I plan on doing the work myself, I’m new to the field as you can tell but I need a hobby and a car.

AND ITS GOTTA SOUND GOOD!

Tu answer a few of ur questions
1. a wheel tub is a part that replaces the rear wheel wells.
2. I think in application of ur sorts a quick change and roll cage are unnessary.
3. that car would prob do 110 to 130 stock so, 150- 160 with 351 ( estimate ).
4. ull need somtin better than a TK0 with 351.
5. I dont think top speed and acceleration can come in the same package but, I could be wrong
6. Never heard of a 60's stang blowin up unless, it was flipped with a ruptured tank.
7. 5-15 MPG probably
8. Flowmaster, Summit Turbo's, Dynomax all are nice sounding and can be loud depending on model of mulffler. Glasspack tube mufflers are just plain LOUD but, are by far the cheapest.

Thanks, i guess ill see what techinspector1 follows up with, Matt do you have a messenger service?

Vince
This is what we call bench racing. Where you sit around and dream up all the things you'd like to do to a car. It's fun and easy. You can come up with some awesome cars in your head. And they'll never be beaten on the street. Might as well give it 500 horses while you're at it.
Now reality is a bit different. With no car and no money and no experience your options are limited.
If you plan to buy a 67 Mustang fastback you should buy the best one you can find with that $10,000 that's also in your dreams at this point. There are plenty of Mustangs to pick from and a lot of them are junk. Get one that you can drive. Don't buy a 302 or 6 cylinder car with an automatic if you want a 351 or 428 with a standard trans. If you get a car that's apart you may never get it on the road without some major help.
Go to www.mustangsandmore.com and check out the forums there. Those guys can tell you what to look for and look out for when buying a Mustang.
AL

Originally posted by GnuVince
Thanks, i guess ill see what techinspector1 follows up with, Matt do you have a messenger service?

I'm sorry, I do not have a messanger service, this is the closest thing I got to one.

Al, I appreciate your insight man, I really do. But hell.. I’ve got plenty of time, and I don’t plan on buying or piecing this shit together soon anyways. I currently own a 1953 Ford Mainline, that’s in decent condition. And until I can master my way through all its parts I won’t touch another car that I want to assemble. Hell right now I have enough trouble putting together the hard versions of model cars with a glue gun. Perhaps your right, I’m bench racing lol.. But until I have a plan together and some goals in mind I’ll never get started and I’ll never have an end factor that’s worth my time. And don’t get me wrong… until I can fund the entire project, I won’t buy this thing piece by piece. It will be a one shot thing, and by that time I will have enough real world car experience under my belt to assemble a majority of the car myself, and my moms boyfriend happens to be a shade tree mechanic and I’ve seen him put together car after car and CAT even came to him once and offered him a job. Anyways, I’m rambling; but you get the idea.

And I’ve got plenty enough money to fund this little project now, I was really just joking about what I said earlier but I don’t want to jump the gun and start buying stuff like I said I’m looking for an end factor before I start. I’ve got two Ford F-150’s both 98’s ones XLT other ones standard. And I’ve got some side spending cash saved up over the years that amounts to about 4,000 I suppose. Right now I need knowledge more than anything

GnuVince.

I do agree with Tech Vince, The parts you have in mind are very expensive and the car seems costly, looking at Tech's prices. What I suggest doing is getting some cheap car like a late 70's, early 80's Chevy impala or, somthing like a 81- 83 Buick regal and do slight things to it to make it your car and make it enjoyable. Annother type of car you could afford to do would be some kind of Dodge or Plymouth A body musclecar like the Dodge Demon or Plymouth Duster, these cars can run from 500 bucks ( needing resto/rod and bodywork ) all the way to 3,000- 4,000 bucks ( running driving, not compleat #'s matching ), in Athens New York there is a 71' Demon that just needs bodywork and is going for $750.

Nah, I’d rather just learn what I need to learn and get what i want when i want to get it. I wasn't really looking for money and financial advice on the whole ordeal; this isn't that place I’d be looking for that I’m simply like i said trying to come up with an idea of what I want and how it compares to other possible market choices. Like I said I have plenty of drivable cars and even a 53' project car. I just need the advice (car advice, not financial) until I learn enough about how it works to make my own judgment.

Few little side questions, why would I want to put a 351 Windsor’s in over a Cleveland or like a 429 Boss? Maybe even a 427 Single Overhead Cam? (The SOHC has 615 horses right?)

Oh and I just happened to see a 64’ Impala I might buy and storage as a shop project. It was like 2300 but in almost perfect condition (on the surface from my point of view) although mechanically I have no idea what condition its in.

Vince.
If you wait till you can afford to do it all at once you'll still be inexperienced.
While you're waiting for that far off day to come you should get yourself a 67 or 68 coupe to drive around in. They sell reasonably cheap on ebay. You'll become familiar with the different aspects of maintaining a Mustang and how it's put together. Then when you see one thats done up nice you can compared it to your stocker. When the time comes to buy your fastback you'll know a lot more about Mustangs and what works best.
You should also subscribe to a Mustang magazine and join the web site I recommended above. You might even become a Mustang expert.
AL
BTW I have a 67 coupe for sale. It's a 6 cyl std. and needs floorboards. $3000

Host some pictures.

Sorry Vince it's burried in the snow out behind the shop. You could probably find one where you live that's not as rusty for the same price. I think you'd be happier with a 302 or better. A 200 c.i. 6 is a good car for old folks or young girls.
AL