Thread: Engine paint, what did you use? Hirsch, Eastwood etc

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Engine paint, what did you use? Hirsch, Eastwood etc
I haven't tried some of the new "Ceramic" type paints from most companies, even Krylon, Eastwood, Bill Hirsch, and even POR claims to have something unigue. Or has anyone just used orange, Urethane?
I have found though, that wire wheeling the block to a high shine, seems to prepare the surface the best.
I also read using zinc chromate primer can be used, but then I read no primer is necessary and the key is mininal coat and 2.5 mil thickness.

Best way is to get the block clean and grease free, then apply 2 coats of epoxy primer, when the epoxy has flashed off for about an hour go on with 2 pack, this will give an excellent shine and last for years. Personally i've never found a so called engine paint that lasted.

Here's a shot of the engine in my roadster after 3200 miles.
If iwas gonna burn around the ports( the hottest spot) ya'd sure see it with this color.
Prep block, 1 coat epoxy, 2 coats base coat (20 minutes flash on the epoxy)
2 coats clear.
Works 4 me, and has 4 years.
Differant strokes, differant folks.

yep i have used two part paints and shot then this way for 20+ years hold out is very good. on customer engines i build in the shop i use spray cans less they want to pay me to paint with gun and a better paint if not i use the plastic coat brand engine paint first a lite coat of etch prime

I've had about equal luck with Krylon and Plastic Coat engine paints. They do OK for a daily driver. One thing I have seen is both seem to fade rather quickly when exposed to sunlight, so I might look for something else if the engine is going to be in an exposed engine compartment.

Okay Steve, I detect some trickery on that second engine, what's up with those valve covers? A bit of tweaking I'd say...

As for the original question, I'm with these guys on the catalyzed paint, works for me too.

I agree with everyone, forget the "engine paints" and spray it with an epoxy primer then top coat it with whatever color regular car paint you like that you would normally use to paint the car. It holds up MUCH better, washes just like a car body, and looks so much better than the ones made just for engines.

The one in my 23 has been on the road for 3 years now, and the original engine in my 27 still had presentable paint on it after 20 years. A detail gun is perfect for shooting one, or a regular gun if you prefer. Transmissions are painted the same way, and to answer the question everyone asks.........no, the paint does not burn off from engine heat.

Don

Well spotted Bob, didn't like the Buick rocker covers so made up some adaptors and fitted Edelbrock SBC covers, Its the engine in my Sue's 29A RP.

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Okay Steve, I detect some trickery on that second engine, what's up with those valve covers? A bit of tweaking I'd say...

As for the original question, I'm with these guys on the catalyzed paint, works for me too.

I have used urethane and I have used 1-Shot sign paint. In each case the blocks had epoxy primer as a base. Both have held up equally as well. 1-Shot is less expensive and can be even be applied straight from the can with a brush as it is self-leveling.

Just used industrial stainless equipment paint, two coats, no primer, that was in `03, still looks good today, although you can`t see very much of it...