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Thread: best engine remover?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    DAVEY35 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    best engine remover?

     



    I have used the carb. base plate engine plate to remove some motors,but now Im told they are very risky? I have removed complete big block chevys with aluimum manifolds with no problems but some guys here tell me its a no-no and i should use a engine leveler like the one that comes from Jegs? What do you guys recomend? thanks...Davey

  2. #2
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
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    A lot of guys swear by the carb plate ones, but I'm like you, just a little leery about 4 quarter inch bolts holding an engine up. Mine is shadetree, but strong. I took a piece of 3 x 3 angle iron about 2 feet long, drilled holes in each corner and mounted 4 heavy pieces of chain hanging down. Then I put another chain looped in the middle so it can hook onto the engine lift hook. I run 4 bolts (one in the front of each head and one in the back of each head) so the engine is suspended at four points. It isn't pretty, but I can pick up 460 Fords and 394 Olds engines without worrying about dropping one.

    Don
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  3. #3
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Even a Fosdick Grade 2, 1/4 inch course thread bolt has a tensile yield of 2,350 lbs, so four of 'em would let you lift 9400 lbs.

    This is how all these old wives tales get started. Someone says that the four bolts in the manifold aren't enough to hold the motor and the first thing you know, it spreads around the hobby as gospel.

  4. #4
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    Huh, I didn't even know Fosdick made bolts.

    Don
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  5. #5
    DAVEY35 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Great point but Im still wondering if that aluminum manifold would hold up?

  6. #6
    DAVEY35 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Don,Thanks for the picture.....Tech,Thanks for the info.....Davey

  7. #7
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Alex, I'll take aluminum thread tensile strength for 500 please....

    2024-T4, 1,710 lbs, times four equals 6,840 lbs.
    7075-T73, 1,880 lbs, times four equals 7,520 lbs.

    Trust me on this, if 1/4 inch bolts were going to strip out of an aluminum manifold, my feet would be smashed flat by now. It never happened in 50 years of pullin' engines and puttin' engines in.

  8. #8
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    besides that the bolts are 5/16

  9. #9
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    Well – I’ve used the carburetor plate for a lot of lifts as well at the “factory” lift points installed by GM at the corners of the intake manifold and never had any trouble. Ditto to Tech’s info on the ¼“ bolts. That’s usually the least of my worry. the length of the lift chain and lift height available can be tricky - but hey, I've got a story about a guy who thought a forklift would solve the lift height problems...

    I went to a friend’s house to watch his “know-it-all” buddy use a forklift to take an engine out . He had the car outside on a concrete pad, engine bolts out, all cables unhooked and fluids drained. Mr. “don’t-tell-me-what-to-do” made a huge loop of chain and bolted it diagonally across the engine using exhaust manifold holes. He didn’t listen to my advice about his lift chain being too long proceeded to hop on his forklift with either antifreeze or a bit of grease on his shoes and his foot slipped off the brake. In a bit of a panic move, he smashed the brake down, causing the engine to sway and while trying to correct the movement, he put the engine through the windshield and smashed the cowl of a 1963 Corvette. It was real ugly.

    Three months in the body shop and a gob of money later the car was ready to put the engine back in (nice 327 - bored thirty over, new “Isky” cam, and believe it or not Jahn’s forged pistons and a pair of’ AFBs) – and he asked for my help. Seems the “forklift kid” was really ticked off at being asked to pay for the damage he caused.

    Car ran like a scalded rabbit – but the hood never did fit quite right at the cowl.

    All that to say – a carb plate and a cherry picker is a good way to remove an engine.

    Regards All,
    Glenn
    "Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil

  10. #10
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    besides that the bolts are 5/16
    Thanks Jerry, that slipped right past me....

  11. #11
    mike forte is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hi,
    I love my Hyster 35 forklift. I have a pair of fork extensions that allow me to reach 5 ft. It will raise engine 20 ft if desired, has shift to the right or left and rolls almost anyplace.
    The $14K price tag wasn't so good but I also use the forklift to move pallets of engines & Tremecs too and have used it for 13 years. Nice......

  12. #12
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    My bad, they are 5/16.

    Don

  13. #13
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    How I've done it forever. I can drop in a motor w/ carb, dissy, plug wires- ready to go.


  14. #14
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    I only use the engine leveler when I am installing a engine in a car and don't have any help.
    But when I am moving it around without a engine stand I always use a carb plate.
    I have not dropped one yet, knock on wood.
    Kurt

  15. #15
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    we've used the header bolts as well as eithe corner in the heads.

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