Thread: Old '72 Camaro

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I'm going to look at a potential project today if still available.
It's rough. Basically a roller in need of complete restoration. Not sure what model SS / RS etc... I don't really care I guess.

The guy kept warning me about the condition. I think he had
calls thinking it was just in need of an engine and tranny.

I just want to be sure the frame is straight and no evidence of accidents or major rust (I'm in Michigan so rust is a problem) I guess some spots can be welded or fixed - correct? I am planning to strip it down and start from scratch - don't know if any sheet metal can be spared.

Any tips or suggestions to look for. BTW he wants $500.

that`s kinda how i bought my mustang .. a stripped out hull .. i`m sorry now i did that .. the better car you buy to begin with the easier it will be to put back together .. i`m looking for another stang now even if it costs 25 grand or so ..

A friend of mine said that too. I just want to get started on something with the kids and not break the bank all at once. I like the older Camaros, but anything nicer is a lot of cash. I already sold one of my rifles to buy it so the wife can't complain.

Good move! You don't need to tell her that it will cost a lot more to finish it.

My theory is ..."you always want to keep your cheerleader happy"! :-)~

that is a good one hotrod.

Oh I know - I just need a starting place. I'm not in any big rush, just want to get the platform.

Originally Posted by Wayne Gilchrist

A friend of mine said that too. I just want to get started on something with the kids and not break the bank all at once.

Not sure you intentionally said this, but the corollary is ".....I want to break the bank over time...". You asked for advice, Hoss gave you the best piece of advice given your description, and then you rationalize it away. Not trying to bust your chops here, just pointing out what you're doing to yourself. I'd bet there's at least a couple dozen people on here who haven't posted that when they read what Hoss said mentally yelled "Oh yeah, true words!!". Most of them learned the hard way how true.............looks like you want to add yourself to that list.

EDIT: Now, if you said "there's $1000 worth of parts there", and you intend to part it out to help build your future car fund I'd be your biggest supporter.

I'd bet there's at least a couple dozen people on here who haven't posted that when they read what Hoss said mentally yelled "Oh yeah, true words!!".

I was one who read it and said that also. I know your not going to get much for 500. In my opinion these cars like the camaros mustangs, ect seem to be harder to put back together than the older cars. It just seems to me its a lot more mind boggling. I passed up a 1970 mach 1 that had everything there b.c of rust issues. It was 2500 bucks and had a title. But to me it needed a lot of patch work. and it was not a dog but i knew i would be better off waiting until i found something better. Sometimes my feelings tell me i should have bought it but deep down i know i would have had to put a lot of work into it, and it probably not be worth it to me.

Bob speaks sound advice. All of us who have started with a fixer upper will tell you the more it needs fixing, the way more it's gonna cost in the long run. With the economy the way it is, biding your time and saving up maybe for a 3k car, might get you one in driveable condition. Even driveables cost alot to fix up down the line, but if your starting with just a frame, yikes it will cost 3x's what you would have to put into it, to buy one already in the shape for what you spent. Now if you know this, and want a project to work on for a few years with the kids, realizing it will cost more over time than an initial outlying of cash to begin with, then welcome to the club many of us have joined.
I love the early 70's muscle cars. I believe there is a big aftermarket for most of the parts, including sheet metal, but if it's like what I'm paying to replace a few fenders and running boards on my truck, you might want one with a good skin on it. Sheet metal can easily cost more than your engine and tranny combined depending on what it needs!

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Hoss gave you the best piece of advice given your description, and then you rationalize it away.

Not really, sorry if it seemed like that. I'm taking in all the information from the posts here. I haven't done this before so I like to get a lot of opinions. Some people may have had hard times, other may not. I'm looking for information.

Chops are still intact! Thanks for all the information. Like I said a friend of mine said the exact same thing and now I see more and more people are echoing that response.

I did. however, go to look at it - I had the appointment set up when I posted originally.

I'll post pictures later tonight. It seems to be in better condition than *I* expected. Hardly any rust on the frame and is straight. Most of the sheet metal may be salvageable but it will be a lot o work and money no doubt.

It sounds to me like you just want to work on something and don't have or don't want to spend a whole lot of money on it. I mean, if you had to sell a rifle to fund the deal, then you must really want to do it. I have been in your position and would rather purchase something....anything....to work on rather than twiddling my thumbs and not having any iron to cut or weld on.

The one thing I would caution you about is to measure diagonally under the car between front and rear points that you know are in the same position left to right. I might also spend the money to run a CarFax on the car to see if there has been any major body damage in the past. I don't particularly mind starting with a rag, but I don't want to start with a tweaked rag.

The car is a unibody construction, with front and rear subframes, so it really doesn't have a "frame" as we think about some of the older cars with full frames. All the more reason to make sure it isn't a rhomboid rather than a rectangle.

Building a car from a gutted body is really expensive.....think of it...if you need the chrome round head sheet metal screws that hold the trim part inside the car, you first have to figure out what screw it is....then, you gotta pay somebody $ for the screw....not cheap by any means. The ONLY time to buy a gutted body is when you are going to gut it anyway and put in a 100% different interior...like a sheet metal interior in a race car.

Buying a completed but rough car is far more cost effective...you have all the little parts to start with....even if you have to replace some.

If you gotta start a project, start the engine and trans while you are looking for the right car.

Mike in Tucson

i think if the car as a roller is in great shape on holes floor pan solid . buy a rusty roller for all the parts this car is lacking .this car has a sub frame so if the rockers are rusty truck pan id gone .then there a very chance the back spring pockets and back rails are going .so you end up with a good roof line. cars like this we tube out . i did a very nice 70 firebird many years ago great body shot it dynasty red i think code 72 ? PPG with DAU 75 clear thats the way i did them 25 years ago . but the guy did not have any thing but a body so i could not finsh the car no glass not one thing but a shell .he wanted me to fine all the parts and that was hard to do back 25 years ago. car sat out side for 20+ years with no glass in it. that thing was still shinny rusting to the ground

Thanks for the ideas of what to check - This is what I need. Like I mentioned it was in better shape than I thought and I am by no means wanting to do a Total restoration- I';m looking for a Street car that I will run to the strip now and again. A project to keep idle hands busy and keep me out of trouble!

if it has good glass / chrome and plastic it is well worth the money .. there are still a few deals out there even though EBAY has killed most of them ..this is a 500 dollar camaro in bama