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Thread: 50 chevy 2 door coupe rear end swap
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Bouncer's Avatar
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    Question 50 chevy 2 door coupe rear end swap

     



    Everywhere I searched people said a 55/57 chevy rear end is a bolt in replacement for the 50 chevy car to open up the enclosed drive line.

    Well, today I placed the 57 rear end on my original springs. Got the pins lined up with a little grunt work only to find out the rear end sits 2 inches farther forward then the original rear end.

    Now what?

    If I re-drill the pin holes on the 57 pads it will change the pinion angle because it rides up on the arch of the spring. The 57 springs are to long to fit the 50 mounts without manufacturing new rear spring brackets.

    Anyone out there done this before?

  2. #2
    Matt167's Avatar
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    you need conversion springs.. chevs of the 40s sells them.. the original rear was a torque tube, which supports the rear end, so the springs are actually flimsy.. get those, and it'll all work out
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

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  3. #3
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    yep i made up plates 1/8 thick drilled a hole in plug welded a pin in. center the axle then drill a hole were the spring center pin used U bolts and bolted the plate in under the spring . rear end spring you can flip the spring side to side if the center pins not center ??.i had a 57 rear end under mine tires were never center to the wheel opening so i made plates to sandwich under the spring to center up on a pin. same thing as drilling a new hole . the plate work better for me . i did not have to lift out the rear end .i made up all new stuff when i went ford 9 ladder bars and floated the springs so i have my springs moved under side of the rails so i can run a widder tire under it and moved the back wheels were i wanted them did the same thing to my gto lets you get a wider and taller tire under the back of the car
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  4. #4
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt167 View Post
    you need conversion springs.. chevs of the 40s sells them.. the original rear was a torque tube, which supports the rear end, so the springs are actually flimsy.. get those, and it'll all work out
    mine were a tin wrap spring and were stock they still work fine matt and i putting alot of power thru them still holding the car up. thats been over 20 years like any leaf car you have to controll wind up
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 11-02-2010 at 01:46 PM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  5. #5
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    Years ago, when I was of modest means, I drilled 1/2" holes 2 inches forward on the spring perches and used them as the centering holes. Presto!! No need to replace springs just U-bolt the housing to the springs and get on with your build.

    Course I'm old and senile now, but I remembered that, I think????

    Good Luck!!
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  6. #6
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    For my '54, I think I just drilled new holes for the center bolts in the rear end pads.
    I say "I think" because it was in 1968, my memory gets a bit vague that far back! Anyway, it survived a hot 283 for years with the stock leaf springs.

  7. #7
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    hey is this show your old chevy ? ok any one want to race the harmless look of this car has hurt more then a few i think it s been 32 years last month. i have own this car
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    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 11-02-2010 at 02:12 PM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  8. #8
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    Pat, you da man.

    I posted the photo ONLY to show where the rear end ended up....centered in the wheelwell.
    Buying parts I don't need, with money I don't have, to impress people I don't like

  9. #9
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geezer2 View Post
    Pat, you da man.

    I posted the photo ONLY to show where the rear end ended up....centered in the wheelwell.
    hey i only showed mine too look at it just haveing fun do not take it the wrong way Geezer.i love my chevy more fun then the gto every one knows a gto could be fast not many think a old car like this can move. they think its heavy. guy with a nova was thinking this one night had his big bottle filled i gave him a good whipping
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 11-02-2010 at 07:46 PM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  10. #10
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    I used 58 chevy 3/4 ton pu springs for my `33 when I was building it, they were 12 leaves. I took out eight of them, had them rebushed to fit the `33, and tappered the foward spring eyes down to 1.75 from two inch to fit the `33 hangers in the front, then drill the new center pin in the spring perch 1/2 inch back to move it foward, all it cost me was for the rebushing of the spring eyes.
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  11. #11
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    Thanks for all the reply's and input. I need to come here more often before I listen to others. I'll be able to tell who they were when I see there rear tires rubbing the front of the wheel wells.

    I am not new to this kind of stuff. Just thought the 57 rear would be a short cut. If I had known I would have bought the 9 inch I could of had, added the spring pads and called it a day.

    I think I'm going to re-drill the locating pin hole in the spring itself and remove the original pin after the new is installed. That way when I bolt it down I will be creating a new center/flat point on the spring without riding up the arch.

    What are your thoughts on this idea?
    Thanks again and love the pic's, nice rides!

  12. #12
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bouncer View Post
    Thanks for all the reply's and input. I need to come here more often before I listen to others. I'll be able to tell who they were when I see there rear tires rubbing the front of the wheel wells.

    I am not new to this kind of stuff. Just thought the 57 rear would be a short cut. If I had known I would have bought the 9 inch I could of had, added the spring pads and called it a day.

    I think I'm going to re-drill the locating pin hole in the spring itself and remove the original pin after the new is installed. That way when I bolt it down I will be creating a new center/flat point on the spring without riding up the arch.

    What are your thoughts on this idea?
    Thanks again and love the pic's, nice rides!
    spring should flaten out some mine did and at the time i had a bbc making good power my shaft angle was ok but i rework the front end and stock tran s cross over . i would not drill the spring but drill spring pads for a new hole or make up a plate with a new locating pin
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  13. #13
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    Yep don't drill the spring---that is probably the most highly stressed area of the assy and it will break before you burn one tank of gas---and it will be under acceration, and along with that you'll toss the driveshaft and also mess up your fenders (and underwear)

  14. #14
    Bouncer's Avatar
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    Thanks Pat and Jerry,

    After reading I will not be drilling the springs. It will create a weak spot now that you pointed this out.

    Just going to drill the pads.

    If I want to lower this car some in the process what is the safe size block to use? Thanks.

  15. #15
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    not related sort of but this is the lowest mileage 50 or so chevy ever .. i dont remember the full story but it has less than 500 miles if i ammember crectly
    iv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?

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