Thread: Removal of broken bolts/studs-new idea??

Tweet

I was doing my monthly read of Engine-Builder.com and I came apond this idea that just makes sense.I would think some of the"oldtimers" know about it already,but I thought I would share it will all of you anyways.It's kind of cool:

If you use heat to remove broken bolts and studs, try the following procedure:
Coat whatever is left of the broken bolt with wax and then apply enough heat for the wax to melt and run down into the female threads of what you are removing the broken bolt from. After you have drilled for an easy-out, apply the necessary heat as you normally would to remove a broken bolt.

Note: This procedure is not always successful for broken exhaust bolts, but it works very well in other applications.

Old vehicles and broken stuff?????.Well I hope this helps.The wax ring from toilets would last a long time.

Here is what I have done lots of times in the past, if there is a little stub of the broken stud or bolt sticking up. I take the next size nut (for example if the stud is 3/8 I use a 7/16 nut) and place the nut down over the stub, then I weld a puddle into the center of the nut and stub. I am essentially welding a new head onto the stub. This does two things: It gives me something to put a wrench or socket onto, and the heat from the welding generally helps loosen the stud from the rest of the unit. I try to burn it in hot to get it as red as possible.

It also helps to spray some penetrant onto the stud after you weld it and let that soak in for a little bit, but the heat generally does the trick. I also turn the stud just a tad in each direction, progressively going further and further out, feeling if it is easing up a little. This has saved me on countless occasions.

Don

the wax ring is a old trick that i learned some time ago have posted on here many times . i like to most all the time drill them out with a ball mill getting on center is the trick . i drill to almost the size of the stud or bolt and drill past it till you hit bottom if blind hole or drill out if open first sometimes the heat and wax if rust i give them a good blast with a hammer . i have built up weld on the busted stud or bolt this works some times on small stuff. then grab with a vise grips . alot of time if lock in from rust coring them out works the best for me and i like using the EZ out that looks like a flat tooth pick. i get alot of busted stuff .in the shop most the time ex bolts in alum heads and i get stuff were guys have used to small of a EZ out and snap them off to

It's fun getting those broken off ez outs out, isn't it, Pat?

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

It's fun getting those broken off ez outs out, isn't it, Pat?

Don

well there tricks to it.. whats harder to cut thru is a tap

I find welding the broken stud/bolts work ok, but if you attach your ground clamp to the material that has the female threads, chances are you will weld the broken stud/bolt to the base metal,(the current will most likely arc both together). Usually if you can build up the broken part and tap it directly on the end,it will loosen. The melted wax trick sounds good,I'll remember to try that next time.

I use a reverse drill bit (in a reversable drill of course!)

start with a small pilot hole and work your way up.

it works 99% of the time

I think I got mine from Eastwood.

CAUTION: I paint mine yellow and keep them separate from my other bits