Thread: Need help with bbc build

Tweet

IM new to this forum as I am new to BBC engines, I have always been a sbc fan but I have finally been converted after hearing the similar phrasing of "cubic inches means everything"..soo I swapped a tired 355 for what I was told was a 454. here are the numbers
driverside rear 14015445
rear middle k-20 (or k20-3 or k20-8)
behind flywheel HP PASS
above flywheel T14
block is stamped CE1139641
heads are 346236 pass (I forgot to write down the head date codes)

MY small amount of digging online says light duty pickup truck with peanut port oval heads but I cant find a horsepower or torque rating not to mention cc or compression ratios. I cant find a date code.

regardless it will be going into a 1981 swb 2wd C-10 and running with an automatic not sure if I wil go with a glide a th350 or a lockup 350 400 or a version of an R4 200-700 I have just about all of them laying around. Im sure the rear gear in the truck is 3.08 -3.42 I wouldnt expect any thing numerically higher than that as its a 10 bolt drum.

Here is my goal, it will be a daily driver but Im wanting atleast 450tq and the ability to rev to atleast 5000 - 5250 rpm. The hp range is not critical to me but 400+ should be easily done with this many cubes if cubes really matter.

so I guess I am asking what to bore to and what cam specs I will need as well as some port and polish ideas on the heads.

IM not looking for the golden trick to run a 10 second 1/4 with what I have here, Im looking to maximize what I have by throwing a few bucks at it vs buying a big name aluminum head package, I will use an airgap intake and I have a fresh 750 dbl pumper. the truck weighs in at about 3800 lbs I will be satisfied with anything in the low to mid 13 second range in a 1/4( if you want an idea of my thoughts on performance), and as always anything faster is just a bonus..

Thanks in advance

OHH and Happy Holidays

giving us a ideal of how much money you want to throw at this would help just bolting a top end kit on and calling it good ? will not fly the stock pistons will be very low CR so looking at a rebuild and at this point i would bump it to a 496 cast steel crank hyper piston s less crank is good and you want just a 454 then bore to 030 or what cleans bores up .to make power it helps to start with nice round bores that seal up and tru-deck the block to O or down 005 would help start this build on the right foot

Straight round holes is where the power is hidden--cylinders, main bores, valve guides/seats, rod bores, pin bores, etc-----whether its a farm tractor or a top fueler!!!!

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

giving us a ideal of how much money you want to throw at this would help just bolting a top end kit on and calling it good ? will not fly the stock pistons will be very low CR so looking at a rebuild and at this point i would bump it to a 496 cast steel crank hyper piston s less crank is good and you want just a 454 then bore to 030 or what cleans bores up .to make power it helps to start with nice round bores that seal up and tru-deck the block to O or down 005 would help start this build on the right foot

To give an idea I certainly plan on atleast 3,000 maybe 4,000 max I prefer to use what I have as far as block and heads everything inside can be changed,obviously if I get over the cost in the heads to just buy a set I will certainly do that. I plan on having the short block rebuilt and reworking the heads to match. just curious on the cam profile and the valve train required to get me where I want to be.

Thanks guys for the replies.

Ok well I have my head problem solved I managed a set of "206" castings closed port ovals mid 60's casting, they are fresh and have 2.19 1.72, so now my concentration will be on intake,pistons,rods,crank and cam any help with carburation and headers is certainly welcomed these are from what I read nice heads. As far as budget 2 or 3000.00 on the bottom end roughly the less the better. I will have the springs in the heads checked to make sure on max lift etc. IM thinking roller cam and lifters,is that possible with my block casting and this style head without any further machining of the heads? If not then I wont go roller and stick with hyd cam and lifters. Like I metioned Im not trying to go 10 second quarters I just want a nice street rod pickup truck that wont go "belly up" up everytime one of the newer model muscle cars challenges me at a red light..being a small block guy my first thought is to stroke it but Im not dealing with small blocks anymore so here I am.