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Thread: new here in need of guidance
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    flamed97 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    new here in need of guidance

     



    hello all,
    my name is Joel, i have done a few builds on trucks over the years but im about to dive into something that is a bit out of my comfort zone and looking for some advice/guidance.

    My father passed away when i was real young and had purchased a 1928 model A car. he was in the process of restoring it back then, long story short it has sat in a shed here on our farm for the last 23 years next to my grandfathers 1929. the 28 is in a little rougher shape but no horrible rust and what i want to do is make a hotrod out of it. the body is a 2 door, and it had a canvas top, this is a trunk car no rumble seat.

    so heres where im needing advice, as far as the frame goes, will it be as good to box the original or go with a tubeframe?
    also im looking to just make a roadster out of it.

    any advice here is greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    sunsetdart is offline Banned Visit my Photo Gallery
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    As far as the frame goes, I would check it closely for more than surface rust. Then if the frame is soild, just box it unless you have money to buy another one.

  3. #3
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Welcome aboard Joel.

    It's good that you start out asking questions, you've got a lot to learn and that's the best first step.

    The answer to your question is so multi-faceted that there is no "quick and dirty" way to get there. Just a little hint to give you an idea let's start with a question. What's your vision of the kind of hot rod you want to end up with? The answer to that will start us down the path to answering your opener here. Not trying to make it more complicated, just trying to show you there is no single, best answer.

    If you lean toward a traditional hot rod, say with a hopped up 4 banger, then the original frame might be just fine, if it's in good condition. If you want a nitros burning pro mod car, then the answers are radically different. Those ar extremes, but at points in between there are even more options. Couple what you think you want with your skills, equipment inventory, and the size of your wallet, not to mention the amount of time you have, and the possibilities are multiplied. That's not a bad thing that should discourage you, it just tells you that you need to figure some things out so that the folks on the board can help you reach a conclusion that will make your experience a pleasure instead of a disappointment (yes, it often ends up one way or the other).

    Just another example. If you want a roadster, you may be better off trading your current body for a roadster body. Based on your description (two doors with a trunk, not rumble) you have what is commonly known as a coupe. The reason that knowing the specific nomenclature is to your benefit is in helping you communicate with those that might be of use to your progress. Now, for '28 you could have three types of coupes, all three having a "canvas top", though each is different, mostly in "how much canvas". There's the regular coupe that has 5 windows (the most desireable and easiest to trade for a roadster), the Special coupe that has 5 windows also but the back of the turret is wood framed and canvas covered (in addition to the very top surface), and then the Sport Coupe that has 3 windows and sort of looks like a convertible with the top up, though it's top doesn't fold down. The special coupes are less desireable because they have more wood, and the back section is often rotted away. The Sport coupes are even less desireable because fewer people like the look of them. These are often converted to roadster looking cars known as "coupesters" when the wooden top structure is removed, but then the door window frames have to be hacked off to complete the look. When all that is done to the minimum effort they look hacked. With considerable metal working they can be made to resemble a real roadster. This is often a bucks down builders choice because the bodies are cheaper.

    Anyway, that's a start. If you're up to sticking around and learning there are lots of folks here to help.
    Last edited by Bob Parmenter; 01-19-2011 at 08:09 AM.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

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    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  4. #4
    IC2
    IC2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Welcome to the site Joel. It sounds like you have an interesting project that you will be starting and we would like to help, if at all possible. Pictures - we really like them and do well with answering your questions as there are many here with extremely high levels of talent.

    Now - the frame. I think the first thing you have to do is draw up a "plan" on what you want to do with this car and what you want it to look like when done. This is a long term project, months occasionally and years usually .... and it does cost a lot of money as well as time. There was a time when the local salvage yard had all you needed for a reasonable price - those days are for the most part, gone.

    Back to the frame. I would first crawl around under the car, checking for rust out or very heavy pitting. If it's OK, then pull the body off and do a more thorough check. Cross members are often cracked, not a big deal as after market pieces are available. Frame side rails often have cracks at some of the many holes - this may or may not be a problem depending on how bad, but these can be repaired and strengthened with boxing.

    If the frame is "junk" then you have two directions - an after market frame from someone like TCI or Speedway, or weld up your own.

    OK - something more to think about - engine/transmission and the rest of the drive line. Of course, the front axle, brakes, etc, etc, etc. And I have to say, SB Chevy power isn't the only way to go

    Let us know how you make out
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  5. #5
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I've got a stock but boxed model a frame under my 27 and it works well, but in hindsight I could have put a repro frame under it for the same money I have in it with a whole lot less work. Model a repro frames are very reasonable compared to the 32 versions and you can get them with various rear crossmembers to use anything from buggy spring to coilovers and more.

    Post some pictures of your car, it will help us help you figure out the best way to build this one.

    Don

  6. #6
    rumrumm's Avatar
    rumrumm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Ford 3W Coupe, 383 sbc
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    Welcome, Joel. I would advise you to keep it a coupe rather than cut it into a roadster. These conversions never look quite right, and the resale value will be much less. '28-29 Coupes make great looking highboys as the photo shows.
    Attached Images


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

  7. #7
    jyardgirl's Avatar
    jyardgirl is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    welcome joel and be sure to take lots of pictures as you go.
    BARB

    LET THE FUN BEGIN

  8. #8
    Whiplash23T's Avatar
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    Welcome Joel from me too and man you already have had a response from only some of the great, friendless, knowledgeable people on here so tighten your belt around your waste,sit down and make yourself comfortable and enjoy the ride.Oh I agree,get some photos up of both cars for us please.
    I maybe a little crazy but it stops me going insane.

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    Mark.

  9. #9
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    it had a canvas top!!!!

    get a repro frame

  10. #10
    flamed97 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    well im leaning between a 351 or the SBC engine, just v8 powered. but nothing to take down the track lol, i have one of those money pits!

    and as for the body its a 3 window sport coupe, lets say i kept a top, is there a kit out there do do a metal roof? or do i just need to trade bodies?

    im fairly decent with metal working, so even though it make take some time and effort i feel comfortable shaving the metal where need be.

    also i like the look of the drop axle front end rather than converting to more modern.

    i will take some pics of it as soon as i get it in the garage

  11. #11
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
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    The sport coupe body is the least desireable so wouldn't be easy or worth much to trade unless you just happened to stumble across the rare, "right" guy. I've seen two sport coupes that had a hardtop fabbed, one in glass the other in aluminum. The glass one was covered with fabric, the metal one still in process, both were chopped which helped the look of the car. They were both fabbed to be removable for a roadster like feel when desired, though they looked a bit funky with the upper door frames hanging out in mid-air.

    With either small V8 a new, fabbed, replica or close to replica A frame as some of the guys suggested would be the best choice. You still need to pin down what style you're shooting for though as the choices for these frames are multitudinous (don't get to use that word often!).
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  12. #12
    flamed97 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    well from where im standing, it looks like im going to cut it into a "coupester" as you put it.

    and small V8 302/351/ or the chevy 350. although a injected ls1 would be nice, but seems out of place with the direction i want to go lol,auto transmission and something around a narrowed 9 inch rear end....at least thats where im leaning. i like the front disc setup and drum rears. and i want to set it low to the ground.

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