Thread: Stainless steel double flares

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ojh,

Good info. For my next brake line install, or is this one turns out to be a leaker, I will do -AN.

Jack.

Originally Posted by ojh

I do brakes all the time and prefer to do -AN fittings, you put them together and bleed the system - its that easy. When i do doubleflare (and i have a good tool) i have leaks that don't show up until you get close to system pressure and to fix you have to start all over.
I use a hack saw to make the cut, tubing cutter 'pinches' the line. I dress the cut with a file to square it and deburr the outside edge, a countersink to clean the inside edge. Getting these edges clean, square and consistant in metal thickness is very important.
I wouldn't doubleflare stainless (although i have never worked with that softer stainless) because the key to a doubleflare getting to seal is the 'crush' ability of proper brake line tubing - when doing the step of pushing the end down inside itself (doubling) you don't run the flaring tool down tight, you leave some 'crush' and i don't see the stainless having these properties. Again, i have never used it so i may be wrong.
I am a firm believer in -AN fittings, i can do a whole car and never have a leak.

As i said earlier i double flare stainless no problem, In england its illegal to single flare brake line.

Do you happen to know the spec on that stainless tube your using???30x???

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stainl...Inch,7423.html

I can bend it around my finger too.

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Do you happen to know the spec on that stainless tube your using???30x???

and Speedway says it will not work with 45 double flare and to use a 37 single flare with AN fittings----

Originally Posted by roadster32

As i said earlier i double flare stainless no problem, In england its illegal to single flare brake line.

It is? What about those braid pigtails out to the caliper? are they available in doubleflare over there?
I'll have to check as far as being legal here, i had never considered -AN fittings being illegal. Thay have to be steel, not aluminum, i am certain of that. Just another complication in a complicated subject.

Jerry,

As mentioned earlier I double flare mine from Speedway, I just have to anneal it after I cut it with the tubbing cutter.

Jack.

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

and Speedway says it will not work with 45 double flare and to use a 37 single flare with AN fittings----

Well Jerry take it from me it does work !!!

Fine for you guys if it works for you and it makes you happy---HOWEVER---you are cruising for a very drastis failure when one of your work hardened or annealed flares fails--the proper method is a 37 degree single flare with the backup B nut and sleeve

I think I may have opened a can of worms with this question.My rod has been on the road for 4 years and touch wood all the stainless steel flares are all sealed uo as log as you are using flaring spanners and you tighten them well their should'nt be any problems

Jerry i've been doing it this way for the last 20 years and i've never seen a failure yet. The pipe is way to soft to work harden in my opinion.

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Fine for you guys if it works for you and it makes you happy---HOWEVER---you are cruising for a very drastis failure when one of your work hardened or annealed flares fails--the proper method is a 37 degree single flare with the backup B nut and sleeve