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01-29-2011 12:28 PM #1
Hi, new to the forum, need some advice
Hi all,
I inherited a '36 ford pick up (15years ago) , 99% complete, not assembled, not running, with '48 merc flathead and all stock running gear, includes columbia 2-speed, stock hydrualic brakes, transmission.
It was my fathers, he restored it in the mid 70's then decided to re do it and never finished.
As a tribute to the old man, my 11 year old son and I wre planning a hot rod resto. We have been looking at pictures etc and have settled on a flat head, fenderless chopped rod/truck (have you seen the rod in Iron Man?)
I am a motorcycle racer and serious enthusiast, I have torn up alot of machinery, so I am OK with a wrench. I know little about the hot rod world.
we have a full shop and excellent fabrication abilities, (if I can't weld it one of my welders can)
I want to keep a 50's look without being stuck totally period correct.
Modern discs front and rear, robust tranny, decent power (is 175rwhp toomuch for a reliable flatty?)but keep the theme of the 50's - 60's rod.
I have no idea where to start looking for parts resouces, good technical advice, books, websites, etc...
I plan on sending the engine out, but we can do alot of the mechanical and structural modifications in house.
How do I find out where to reinforce the frame etc...
I plan on starting at the bottom and working up.
Any help would be appreciated.
#121
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01-29-2011 02:44 PM #2
I think its great your wanting to do a project with your son and one from his grandfather is even better... Your best bet take and post pictures everyone on here will have and voice an opinion from them you can form your own and proceed. No one on here will let you knowingly make a mistake. Enjoy your build and Welcome to CHRCharlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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01-29-2011 03:17 PM #3
By 1936 the Ford frames were pretty solid as is, so not a lot of reinforcing is needed, like with earlier versions. They have pretty stout crossmembers and lend themselves well to changing the front and rear suspension, if that is what you desire, or you can simply modify the buggy spring setup to drop them down a little.
The decisions you need to make are if you want to retain that I beam setup in front, or install something like a modern MMII front end. Out back you can go with various setups, like one of the parallel spring kits that people like Speedway sells. My Son Don just bought one of those for the 46 Ford he has and it is almost a bolt in and gives modern handling and ride.
You mention discs front and rear, so maybe something like an Explorer rear would be good. Lots of guys have run a T 5 behind flatheads and various kits are available to make that easy. If you are sending the motor out to be built, consider someone who knows them, like H and H. Gastrick on here just had them build him one and it is done right and looks fantastic.
I like the part about it being your Dad's and then you and your Son are doing it together..............it doesn't get any better than than, 3 generations involved with the same car and dream. Post lots of pictures for us, please. Oh, and welcome to the forum.
DonLast edited by Itoldyouso; 01-29-2011 at 03:20 PM.
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01-29-2011 04:01 PM #4
Thanks for responding guys,
I like the look of the stock front, can I fit rack and pinion steering to it?
How about disc brakes?
An explorer rear and T-5 sounds perfect.
I'm gonna start looking for them.
As we go, I want to make it as driveable and safe as possible.
Planning on pulling the body off in the next month or so and getting started. we have 5 years. That sounds like alot, but I have a feeling...
Is there a parts warehouse that I can contact with all my hairbrained questions?
Is there a good website with lots of photos so we can see other options and make decisions?
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01-29-2011 05:42 PM #5
#121,
Welcome to CHR from a local CHRer. I have the Maval (Unisteer) cross steer rack and pinion setup for my 34 and have only tested it so far setting still in the shop and a short trip from the shop to the house and back. Setting still it turns very easy and of course rolling it turns even easier. They are sold for the 32-34 fords and I have read that that is because the 36 needs a different scrub radius. Don't ask me to explain what that is but I am sure someone here can. I would bet that after talking to Maval and with your fabing experience something could be worked out.
Love to hear about these father/son builds and wish you guys the best of luck.
Jack.
P.S. you have a PMwww.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44081
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01-29-2011 06:08 PM #6
welcome to chr.BARB
LET THE FUN BEGIN
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01-29-2011 06:10 PM #7
Welcome!!!
Word of caution on the flattie---costs a bunch to put together a reliable engine with decent power.... Other popular engines in that era might be a consideration....There were lots of Cads, Olds, and Buick Nailheads used then, too. Better power and reliability and probably less initial cost to build.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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01-29-2011 06:43 PM #8
Welcome CHR and as the rest I`ll be watching your build, we need pics, looking for easy buildup parts go to chassis engineering
http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/
they have a lot of cool stuff to make your life easier and prices are reasonable, scrub radius will mean how low your going with your truck, unisteer does not work with extreme lowered vehicles, as with my `37 it won`t work. Any questions just post away and we`ll help you get thru it...Toys
`37 Ford Coupe
`64 Chevy Fleet side
`69 RS/SS
`68 Dodge Dart
Kids in the back seat may cause accidents, accidents in the back seat may cause kids, so no back seat, no accidents...!
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01-29-2011 07:04 PM #9
Pick up a Speedway Motors catalog, it will become your bible and answer a lot of questions too.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/?CID=1...FSVe7AodjicVzQ
Don
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01-29-2011 07:48 PM #10
Thanks those are the kind of resources I am looking for.
I know very little about hot rods... I'm a slow learner though, so I have that going for me.
I'll contact chassis engineering next week to figure out a route for the start of the build.
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01-29-2011 09:11 PM #11
Welcome to the CHR site also from me down under. I too will want to follow along with your build and I like your plan so far with using the flatty but as Dave mentioned,there is other options out there to be considered,eg., I adore and would really want a nailhead with 6 carbs in the old style truck.
You don't really need to look to far for another web site as this one is the best in the world for knowledge and friendly advice.I maybe a little crazy but it stops me going insane.
Isaiah 48: 17,18.
Mark.
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01-29-2011 09:50 PM #12
There are lots of us in the area that can give you some guidance. There are way more variables than have been discussed here so it will take some work for you to get the whole thing absorbed.
Just a couple things to consider. First there's what was actually done in the '50s and '60s and then there's what some people THINK was done. Most '36 pickups of that era were full fendered, not fenderless. That's not to say you shouldn't go the other way if that's what really winds your watch, just don't think of it as period representative, much less correct. The "bobber" thing that's fairly popular now is really more of a current day "interpretation" of what may have rarely been done in the past. But if that's what floats your boat...........
Like Pops said, the frame is pretty stout in stock configuration, and certainly strong enough for a built flatty as long as it's in good shape. Like Dave says, flat motors are pricey, and 175 rwhp is up there, you're talking roughly 220-250 at the flywheel. The T5 is a nice choice, and will require some frame center member mods as well as minor suspension mods at the least, more depending on your other choices.
The truck frame is essentially the same as the passenger car frame. If you want to view some of the alternatives discussed here you're welcome to get in touch with me (start with the private message feature if you wish, we can exchange phone #s) as I have both a MII front, Chassis Engineering rear (if I were doing it again today I'd make a different choice) on my '36 roadster, and a beam axle front, banjo rear both with the original style transverse springs, on my 3w coupe. Between the two I can walk you through the features, pros and cons, of either type suspension as well as any hybrid of the two. The old picture is worth a thousand words thing. As an example, rack and pinion is easy with an independant front, but a good cross steer is better for the beam arrangement.
There's not really a "one stop" hot rod shop to fill the description you made. It's like what you've probably already learned in your two wheel world. It's a network thing. One place is good for one thing, another for another. You're starting in a good place, asking questions, and setting a reasonable time frame (though 5 years seems to go by much quicker nowadays).Last edited by Bob Parmenter; 01-29-2011 at 09:59 PM.
Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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01-30-2011 09:13 AM #13
#121,
Uncle Bob is right about how fast time flies. Available time and money usually play a big part in the equation. I know it does here. I am 6+ years on my rebuild and have a long way to go. BTW, I have solved the time old puzzle of why the older you get the faster the days, months and years go by, but you have to be old enough to understand it.
Jack.www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44081
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01-31-2011 09:26 AM #14
Post a few photos when you get time. We'd like to see what you are starting with.
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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01-31-2011 10:55 AM #15
Welcome. I would recommend hooking up with hot rodders close to you. Bob is a wealth of info and has some nice rides in his garage, a trip to his neck of the woods could save you a few hundred hours of mistakes and dollars." "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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