Thread: Which Carb for my 350?
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02-18-2011 06:36 PM #16
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02-18-2011 06:54 PM #17
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02-18-2011 08:29 PM #18
Tech inspector... Holy cow thank you. That's exactly what I was looking for. Any thoughts on a good carb? Dual Carbs? Again... Thank you!1936 Plymouth 4 Door Custom Convertible
MSRA Member #22523
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02-18-2011 09:02 PM #19
As far as what I consider the best 4-bbl carburetor ever designed, that honor would have to go to the Rochester Quadrajet. Original equipment on millions of General Motors vehicles through the years, the Q-jet was fairly complicated to rebuild and tune and not many fellows spent the time to get to know how to do it properly. Cliff Ruggles is one of the best known experts on Quadrajets and he says that a properly set up Q-jet is very close to electronic fuel injection in performance.
http://www.cliffshighperformance.com...history_1.html
If I wanted to build a state of the art carburetor motor (I guess that sounds like an oxymoron, huh?), I would use a Ruggles Q-jet and an Edelbrock RPM Quadrajet intake....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7104/
(notice how the secondary bores are larger than the primaries? That's for the huge Q-jet secondary throttle blades to clear).
Then I'd set the fuel pressure at 5 psi at the carb inlet and mount a 14" x 4" air filter assembly.
Any of the enthusiasts on this forum who are around my age can remember the BA-WAAAAAAHHHHHH sound the carb would make when you'd wood the loud pedal.
Call Cliff up and talk with him. It's at least worth a phone call to find out about the cost and such. He can tailor the carb to your vehicle and your driving style.
As far as a dual-4 arrangement, I'd use the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap #7525...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7525/
and two 500 CFM Edelbrock Thunder Series AVS #1803 and 1804 carbs. HEI will not fit with this intake. Must use small diameter distributor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1803/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1804/Last edited by techinspector1; 02-18-2011 at 09:19 PM.
PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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02-18-2011 10:11 PM #20
Thank you. You are practically building my motor. I'm just buying the parts and doing the installs!1936 Plymouth 4 Door Custom Convertible
MSRA Member #22523
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02-18-2011 10:26 PM #21
Ok I sent out into the garage and got some inf on the motor. Currently on the motor is an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and an Edelbrock 1401 carburator. If I don't use the Victor JR, where do I go from here to make more power? Still don't know what cam is in it currently. Something... but not sure what.
Step up to the Performer RPM dual and some better dual carbs?
P.S. my problem with this car is, I bought it from my father who bought it a few years ago years ago and never did anything to it but drove it. He has no clue what's in it. And I can't find any info on the previous owner to call and ask.1936 Plymouth 4 Door Custom Convertible
MSRA Member #22523
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02-18-2011 11:09 PM #22
You're facing a problem that anyone who buys a running auto has to deal with. I guess some of us on this forum buy them that way, but I would think that the majority of board members here have built their own motors, if not their complete ride.
You can spend money and effort on this piece and that piece and hope for the best or you can tear into the motor and build it for yourself. Your choice.
What I would do in your case would be to start at the rear of the car and upgrade everything. If you put more soup in the motor, the rear will have to be upgraded anyway. Make sure you have the proper gear for the converter and transmission you will use at the speed and accelleration you want. Install a locker to prevent the right rear from spinning. Install good axles that won't break and leave you stranded on the other side of East Treestump. Install new compliance bushings in the suspension. I like rubber, not poly. You do as you wish.
Once I had the rear up to snuff, I'd locate a late model short block or long block builder motor and haul it down to my favorite machine shop for some whittlin'. All the time I was building the motor on a stand, I could be still driving my rod. When built, one weekend would be all it would take to change motors. Then the motor that came out would go on craigslist.Last edited by techinspector1; 02-18-2011 at 11:15 PM.
PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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02-19-2011 02:19 PM #23
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02-19-2011 04:58 PM #24
It's got a 10 bolt rear end. Not sure on gears. Gotta open it up and look. And mustang II front end. I'm assuming that whoever built this merged this body with an older camaro. (mid to late 60's?) It even has camaro buckets.Last edited by M22KLARS; 02-19-2011 at 05:02 PM.
1936 Plymouth 4 Door Custom Convertible
MSRA Member #22523
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02-19-2011 08:20 PM #25
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02-20-2011 07:30 AM #26
Dont want to hijack this thread, but I have the same question, same engine, perhaps the same use.
I currently have an old edelbrock 1406 on a edel high perf intake manifold. Neither myself or another old school mechanic can get it tuned just right.
So I have been looking at alternatives, get another rebuilt 1406, try to rebuild it myself, or look at a holley.
On other forums I have seen folks say that a vacuum secondary is the best thing since sliced bread. I dont believe that the 1406 has a vacuum secondary but the holley O-80570 does.
The question is Are vacuum secondarys better in a street/mild performance engine better?
Thanks!...at least I'm enjoying the ride!
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02-20-2011 07:39 AM #27
My Holley had gear driven secondaries. Ran great on the street and track. Drove it around town and on long cross country trips.
BTW: Fuel consumption was no big deal back then."PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
>>>>>>
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02-20-2011 08:13 AM #28
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02-20-2011 08:15 AM #29
First of all, E-brocks have a mechanical secondary with an air opened valve, for no better term above those secondary plates.
Secondly, most problems with these carbs is dirt - they are quite sensitive to crud. You need a very good filter ahead of them. This is what I use: and it's the Speedway 6" version
An early photo with only one bracket installed
Then, they are very easy to tune but you will need one of their kits. An 'old school' mechanic may have the skills, but he just can't get these carbs running their best without that kit as well as the Owner's Manual: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ers_manual.pdf
The kits - and this one is the most complete: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1479/ (or the EDL-1487 which is for fewer parts and choices and quite a bit cheaper)Dave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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02-20-2011 08:49 AM #30
Dave,
Thanks for all the info!!! Most of my carb experience is with old Warner SU on MG, Triumph and that sort.
I do have the owners manual but the suggestion for the kit is just what I am looking for!!! I had used the other kit that you mentioned during the build, and it used to be set up well, but has degraded to a point where I need to do something.
Moe was a bit red when he had to tell me that this was the best he could get it......at least I'm enjoying the ride!
Also apparently called a "Skip Bin" - https://www.wm.nz/for-home/skip-bin/
the Official CHR joke page duel