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03-18-2011 01:54 PM #1
heidts equalizer valve.. problem i think
I have a stock chevy steering pump. working a 1977 f-100 box. between the pump and the box i have this valve.My idea is to get rid of this thing and ...........i understand one can cut or stretch the spring in the chevy pump,and knock the pressure down so i'm able to use the ford box.If you have anything on this or know someone i can go to please help me out, as i am driving this thing all the time,I can't keep it in my lane very easy.
If i am way off base tell me that too. bob sIts not the load, that breaks you down in life-- Its .
the way, that you carry it.
1932 steel ford 3-window coupe, 50 full kustom merc,49 Ford chopped convertible.
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03-18-2011 05:34 PM #2
Check Borgeson's web site. I used their valve to reduce the flow on a chevy pump. I also added 4 washers to the pressure valve, which reduced the pressure from 1100 to 800 psi.
My steering(T-bird R&P) on a Must II IFS is much improved. This eliminated the twichy steering.......DonDon Meyer, PhD-Mech Engr(48 GMC Trk/chopped/cab extended/caddy fins & a GM converted Rolls Royce Silver Shadow).
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03-19-2011 04:52 AM #3
twichey........is this when you are constantly correcting the the steering wheel?. to stay in your lane. driving the car all the time ...while driving the car. Don!!!! i think you may have hit on my problem.The "equalizer valve" doesn't,do anything to help the pressure.It just regulates the flow.ataherefore the chevy box is justsending more or less fluid, when you adjust the knob on the black box .right? I have sent for a new borgesons catalog.
Last edited by bsa_bob; 03-19-2011 at 04:54 AM.
Its not the load, that breaks you down in life-- Its .
the way, that you carry it.
1932 steel ford 3-window coupe, 50 full kustom merc,49 Ford chopped convertible.
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03-19-2011 04:56 AM #4
Is your valve like this in any way?????????Its not the load, that breaks you down in life-- Its .
the way, that you carry it.
1932 steel ford 3-window coupe, 50 full kustom merc,49 Ford chopped convertible.
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03-19-2011 06:42 AM #5
No it's not Bob. If you remove the flow reduction valve from the Chevy pump (the valve where the high pressure hose att) you will see a removeable pressure regulator behind it that screws out. This valve had one washer on it (behind the spring)when I removed it. I added 3 more washers to it.......this reduced the operating pressure & eliminated the constant correction of the steering.
Good luck...DonDon Meyer, PhD-Mech Engr(48 GMC Trk/chopped/cab extended/caddy fins & a GM converted Rolls Royce Silver Shadow).
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03-19-2011 08:38 AM #6
If your steering is twitchie---check your caster
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03-19-2011 08:53 AM #7
Yes i moved it yesterday so the pin inclination .....gave me the bottom of the pin tilted out ahead, of the top.........[viewed from the side to the max]. it now doesn't wander but it is Twitchy. which inclines me to believe the chevy pump is just to high pressure,what do you think?/Its not the load, that breaks you down in life-- Its .
the way, that you carry it.
1932 steel ford 3-window coupe, 50 full kustom merc,49 Ford chopped convertible.
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03-19-2011 09:21 AM #8
the twitchieness is probably coming from a binding king pin or ball joint
Its not from your powersteering
Also---where does your king pin line pass thru the tire/ground patch (scrub radius)
How about posting some pics of your suspension/steering layout??Last edited by jerry clayton; 03-19-2011 at 10:13 AM.
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03-19-2011 11:10 AM #9
It is pretty cheap to change the Chevy pump pressure to see if it corrects the problem.
The chevy pumps of the 70's-80's put out around 1200 psi. The Ford pumps around 800 psi,thus you will fill the difference.
It is a common proplem with the Must II IFS to have too much boost & get
oversteer.
Do a search on Chevy pump pressure problem......
It is also important that you have the correct caster as mentioned above.Don Meyer, PhD-Mech Engr(48 GMC Trk/chopped/cab extended/caddy fins & a GM converted Rolls Royce Silver Shadow).
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03-19-2011 01:59 PM #10
This is good info. I was about to buy a Heidt's regulator instead of the Borgeson's regulator kit. Does anyone have some pics on the adding washers to the pump regulator. It seems to be backward to me, doesn't adding washers increase the pressure? Please explain so I get my thinking correct.
Thanks
TCLast edited by Two8tyThree; 03-19-2011 at 02:01 PM.
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The road is long with many a winding turn.
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03-19-2011 04:04 PM #11
I am taking the wheels off again this week .maybe monday after i get the darn water softener.gets rebuilt.I'll get a pic or two.I am thinking though that, inclnation has just got to be there,1/4" or so. it isn't to important how much as it is, to how much the lower end of the pin,is rearward of the top of the pin.I don't have the wander much now just the twitchyiness. man i hope i spelled that right.Its not the load, that breaks you down in life-- Its .
the way, that you carry it.
1932 steel ford 3-window coupe, 50 full kustom merc,49 Ford chopped convertible.
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03-19-2011 09:14 PM #12
In certain applications, Ford used the GM Saginaw pump from the factory. Mostly in E series vans. You could use a pressure valve from one of them. But to my knowledge they are the same as standard GM valves. I have installed several GM engines in Ford trucks using a stock GM pump with no problems. I believe your problem lies elsewhere.Anyone can restore an old car, it takes a man to cut one up
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03-19-2011 09:16 PM #13
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03-20-2011 05:14 AM #14
I have done both , added washers behind the spring and am using the Hiedts Valve pictured, it redirects flow into the return line reducing the overall presure at the rack, Both helped. I had to adjust the vave to the point that there was minimal assist at slow speeds.
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03-20-2011 07:51 AM #15
Could be i don't have the heidts valve adjusted right??????????Its not the load, that breaks you down in life-- Its .
the way, that you carry it.
1932 steel ford 3-window coupe, 50 full kustom merc,49 Ford chopped convertible.
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